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Much of Gabon looks like the old Hollywood image of African jungle, with mysterious rivers wending their way through dense forest filled with chattering monkeys and exotic birds. But when it comes to jungle, Gabon is the real thing: More than three-quarters of the country is covered in tropical forests, and even Libreville, the modern capital, looks as though it were recently carved out of the surrounding tangle of trees and vines.

Gabon's prices, however, aren't old-fashioned at all. The country's rich natural resources, especially oil, have made it prosperous and secure. And they've also made it expensive for travelers. Libreville is one of Africa's—and the world's—priciest cities. Travelers think nothing of paying several dollars for a can of Coca-Cola or a bowl of vegetable soup in a small restaurant.

For those who can afford it, Gabon delivers great beauty and plenty of exotic atmosphere. In the forests and along the rivers, you can look for lowland gorillas, chimps, hippos and crocs. And in the smaller villages and popular beach spots around Libreville, you'll find the country's tropical feel blended with a laid-back French ambience.

Geography

History

Originally inhabited by Pygmy hunters and gatherers, the country was settled some 3,000 to 4,000 years ago by the first wave of Bantu-speaking farmers. A long period of symbiosis ensued. One result was the loss of all Pygmy languages: The tribes all speak Bantu languages today.

The Portuguese landed in Gabon in 1472, but the country was initially ignored by European powers. The French eventually assumed control of Gabon around the mid-1800s. Slavery was abolished, and newly freed subjects established Free Town (now known as Libreville). After many decades of colonial neglect, Gabon obtained its independence in 1960.

The country's modern history really began in 1967, when Omar Bongo became president. Bongo led Gabon until he became ill in May 2009, an incredibly long run (especially by African standards). Bongo died in June 2009. For most of his 42-year presidency, Gabon was a one-party state, but even the legalization of opposition candidates in 1993 didn't stop voters from electing Bongo again and again.

But it is oil, rather than Bongo's leadership, that has made Gabon stable and relatively prosperous. Despite a slump in oil prices, Gabon has one of the highest per capita incomes in Africa.

Snapshot

Uncrowded beaches, sites related to the life and work of Dr. Albert Schweitzer, jungle treks, lowland gorillas, river rides and tribal culture are among the foremost attractions of Gabon.

The country will appeal to flexible travelers who have already been to eastern or southern Africa and want to explore a less-traveled part of the continent. Don't expect it to be an inexpensive destination, and be prepared for high heat and humidity, an abundance of mosquitoes, less-than-attentive service and possible schedule changes.

Potpourri

The population includes more than 40 separate tribal groups with distinct customs and languages. Tribal boundaries in Gabon, however, are less sharply drawn than elsewhere in Africa. The Fang, representing about 30% of the population, make up the largest single group. The Fang live primarily to the north and east of Libreville. The Bapunu, who make up about 20% of the population, live mostly in the south along the coast and the border with the Republic of Congo. Thousands of Europeans (primarily French) live in Gabon, too.

In the late 1850s, Paul du Chaillu, a French-American explorer, was trekking through the dense forests of Gabon when he spotted a group of gorillas, making him the first European to encounter the big apes. (The low hills that rise in the interior of the country, the Massif du Chaillu, are named after him.)

Chimpanzees, human beings' closest relatives, are fighting a turf war in Gabon. Logging companies have driven dozens of different chimp tribes from their forest homes, forcing the refugee chimps into the hostile territory of neighboring tribes. Fierce defenders of territory, the colliding chimps often fight each other to the death. Gabon holds between one-half to one-third of the total chimp population in Africa, but if logging practices continue, 80% of Gabon's chimps will die at the hands of their neighbors.

Although he looms large in the modern history of his country, Gabon President Omar Bongo, who died in June 2009, was small in stature—he was barely 5 ft/1.5 m tall.

Despite the fact that only about 1% of Gabon is Muslim, President Bongo converted to Islam after assuming power.

Gabon is home to Africa No. 1, one of the most popular radio stations in Africa. (It can be heard throughout Africa, Europe and North America on the shortwave band.)

Do attend a juju magic mass on Sunday, but only if you're a woman—no men allowed.

The majority of trees in the thick forests are red mahogany.

Because it's rich in minerals, timber and oil and has a relatively sparse population, Gabon has one of the highest per-capita incomes in sub-Saharan Africa. But not all citizens share equally in the wealth: Approximately half the population still ekes out a living in agriculture or by cutting timber.

Gabon's longest river, the Ogooue, is navigable to the town of Ndjole, about 220 mi/350 km inland.

Look for recordings of the popular Gabonese musician Pierre Akendengue. CDs available outside Gabon include: Awana W'Africa, Reveil de L'Afrique and Piroguier.