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San Jose, Costa Rica is often used as a stepping stone to other cities in Costa Rica. But the capital city is actually a very worthwhile destination, not just one to pass through
San Jose’s location in the Central Valley allows for a climate that is never too hot or too cold, averaging 75 degrees year-round. This comfortable temperature makes San Jose an ideal location for outdoor activities like rainforest expeditions, a round of golf or taking a walking tour of the city to admire the Spanish colonial architecture.
As Costa Rica’s political, social and commercial center, San Jose has excellent art galleries, museums and markets. Mercado Central is the largest market, as it occupies an entire block on Avenida Central. It has over 200 shops, stalls and restaurants that sell a wide range of items, like meats, fruits, fish, vegetables and coffee. Thousands of people come to the market every day, so it’s always buzzing with activity.
Travelers with families will find many things to do in San Jose. The Museo de los Ninos is part children’s museum and part art gallery, and is housed in an old penitentiary. The children’s museum area has many hands-on exhibits dedicated to science, history and geography. The art gallery area is great for adults. The pieces of contemporary art contrast with the old prison’s architecture and abandoned cells. Another fun place for families to go is the Simón Bolivar Zoo, San Jose’s only zoo. It has many native Costa Rican animal and plant species.
There is no shortage of restaurant choices in San Jose. For travelers seeking authentic Costa Rican food, many restaurants serve gallo pinto, Costa Rica’s national dish made up of fried rice and black beans. It’s usually served for breakfast with tortillas and natilla, which is best described as a thin sour cream. For other food options, travelers can enjoy Italian, Peruvian, Mediterranean and Costa Rican fusion food, just to name a few. Coffee shops and bakeries are also abundant in the city.
Valid passport needed for entry
Spanish (English is widely spoken)
Costa Rican colón (American dollars are widely accepted)
Puerto San Jose is a Pacific coast town 55 mi/90 km south of Guatemala City, and it was Guatemala's principal seaport before Puerto Quetzal was built just down the coast. It's now a rather run-down place, but the beach fills up with Guatemalans on weekends and holidays. There are better, more easily accessed beaches nearby at Balneario, Chulamar and the upscale Balneario Likin. The Radisson Villas del Pacifico is one of a few places to stay on or near the black-sand beaches of Chulamar. The area is hot and humid most of the year, and sand fleas can be a problem on the beach. Swimming in the ocean is often dangerous because of riptides.
If you travel to the Puerto San Jose area from Guatemala City, you will pass through Escuintla. It sits in a rich farming and cattle-raising area. There's not much to do in this industrial hub except enjoy the lush tropical vegetation that surrounds the town proper.
San Jose, Costa Rica, is the country's social, political and commercial center, and it's more cosmopolitan and prosperous than many other cities in Central America. San Jose is a pleasant place to visit, although it has comparatively few colonial structures, and most travelers use it as a stepping stone to somewhere else in the country. Volcanoes and mountains ring the city's barrios and suburbs; cloud forests, beaches, raging rivers and rain forests lie within a few hours' drive.
San Jose has its own attractions worth exploring, however, and these are on the increase. The capital has entered a revitalization period—condos are going up to attract urban dwellers, cultural events are thriving, and older areas have revived thanks to the boom in tourism. Because of a traditional lack of urban planning, San Jose's architecture is a mishmash of historic structures, glass high-rises and run-down buildings. In many ways, this is part of its charm. However, the city's streets are plagued by congestion and pollution in a country renowned for its environmental prowess, though this is thankfully beginning to change.
Amid it all, the city is blessed with high-quality restaurants, excellent art galleries, museums and boutique-hotels. San Jose's delightful springlike climate is never too hot and never too cold because of the city's location in the Central Valley. The Ticos, as locals are known, provide excellent hospitality, and San Jose, often referred to locally as chepe, is the ideal starting point.
Sights—The European-style Teatro Nacional; the elevated square in Parque Central; the variety of goods and lively activity at the Mercado Calle Nacional; the Estadio Nacional in Parque la Sabana.
Museums—Exhibits of pre-Hispanic cultures and colonial artifacts, and exhibits on 19th- and 20th-century history and culture at the Museo Nacional; pre-Columbian gold sculpture, jewelry and other artifacts at the Museo de Oro Precolumbino; pre-Columbian jade figurines and jewelry at the Museo del Jade; contemporary art at the Museo de Arte Costarricense.
Memorable Meals—A romantic dinner at Restaurante Grano de Oro; the sample platter at Lubnan; parilla at La Esquina de Buenos Aires; delicious ceviche and Peruvian seafood at Machu Picchu.
Late Night—Live bands and a hip crowd at El Cuartel de la Boca del Monte; live jazz at the Jazz Cafe in San Pedro or Escazu; DJs and live house music at Club Vertigo.
Walks—Exploring the galleries, cafes and stately mansions of barrios Amon and Otoya; strolling the pedestrian precincts along Avenida Central and Avenida 4; walking leafy Parque Nacional; a walking tour of downtown San Jose.
Especially for Kids—The hands-on science exhibits at Museo de los Ninos; a day trip to La Paz Waterfall Gardens with its aviary, butterfly farm, hummingbird garden and jungle cats exhibits.
Sitting in the middle of the fertile Valle Central (Central Valley), with volcanoes to the north and a rugged tectonic mountain chain to the south, San Jose has grown awkwardly into a metropolitan area of nearly 2 million residents. Its jumble of potholed streets confounds visitors.
Many main roads eventually lead to the intersection of Avenida Central and Calle Central in the heart of downtown. Several of Costa Rica's most famous landmarks lie within a few blocks of this intersection and are clustered around a series of plazas and parks. The congested downtown should be seen on foot, or by one of the many red taxis.
Finding your destination in San Jose can be particularly difficult, as there are almost no street signs, and street numbers are even rarer. Addresses are referred to by the nearest street junction (for example, Avenida 2 between Calle 3 and Calle 5, expressed in shorthand as A2, C3/5). And to make things even more confusing, residents usually give directions by referring to distances and compass directions from common landmarks (some of which no longer exist). Many Ticos don't even know the name or number of the street they live on.
Several upscale neighborhoods circle the center of downtown. Affluent Escazu and Santa Ana are perched on a hillside and are popular areas for retired expats. The 19th-century barrios Amon and Otoya to the north are both gentrified, and several turn-of-the-20th-century mansions have been converted into hotels and restaurants. San Pedro to the east is home to the University of Costa Rica, along with trendy cafes and nightspots. The western edge of downtown, the La Sabana district, surrounds the largest metropolitan park and extends west to Rohrmoser, home to foreign embassies.
The international airport is in Alajuela, a separate town about 12 mi/19 km west of San Jose. Between the two, the area of Ciudad Colon has several modern hotels that cater to leisure, business and convention travelers. Many hotels, ranging from luxury to budget, are in this area.
When Spanish conquistadors arrived in Costa Rica in the early 16th century, there were some 400,000 indigenous people inhabiting the region. Their cultures were not as sophisticated as those of the ancient Maya and Aztecs to the north, but they had developed agriculture, metallurgy, animistic religious beliefs and a hierarchical system of government.
By 1564, when the Spanish established their colonial capital at Cartago, near present-day San Jose, there were only about 120,000 indigenous people left in Costa Rica. This population decline was a result of diseases and forced labor inflicted by the Spanish. By 1611, that number had shrunk to 10,000.
Attracted by the Central Valley's rich soil and temperate climate, Spanish settlers founded San Jose in 1737. By the time the competing city factions that fought for Costa Rica's independence designated the city as the capital in 1823, the coffee industry was prospering and bringing wealth to what had been a dusty little town. San Jose became the commercial center for the booming coffee-export business in the mid-1800s, and coffee barons built handsome mansions featuring European designs and furnishings.
The city's cultural elite also funded construction of the neoclassic Teatro Nacional, which opened in 1897 as an opera house. Early-20th-century San Jose was a cosmopolitan city and one of the first electrified cities in the world, with electric trolleys ferrying office workers and residents to well-ordered neighborhoods.
A short civil war in 1948 tore the city apart (bullet holes from the battles are visible in the walls of the Museo Nacional). The war led to the establishment of Costa Rica's constitution and the abolishment of the military in 1949. The country became an oasis of peace amid Central America's wars and revolutions, assisted by the government's commitment to, and guarantees in, health and education.
San Jose became an important financial and political hub for the entire country and benefited from a large influx of foreign investment, most recently in the tech and pharmaceutical industries. Major international companies such as Intel, Hewlett-Packard and Motorola have built assembly plants outside of the city.
Costa Rica never entered into the military conflicts that plagued its neighbors, and its former president, Oscar Arias Sanchez, was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1987 for brokering peace among the Central American nations. In 2005, President Arias successfully lobbied for a repeal on the one-term restriction for presidents and the following year became the first Costa Rican president elected to a second term. Costa Rica's current president, Carlos Alvarado Quesada, is one of the youngest to serve the country in its history. He was elected at 38.
One of the city's principal landmarks is called "Coca-Cola" because a Coca-Cola bottling plant was located there many years ago, and there is leftover signage present today. A busy local bus terminal is now at that location, and it is an area to avoid, especially at night.
During the 19th century, Costa Rica's capital was rotated between four competing cities. San Jose was named the nation's capital after the three rival cities formed a league and attacked San Jose, which won the "War of the League."
Construction of the Teatro Nacional was financed by local coffee barons, who voted a tax on coffee after Europe's leading opera company refused to perform in theater-less Costa Rica while touring Central America.
The buying and selling of genuine pre-Columbian art in Costa Rica is strictly against the law. Many individuals and families who owned such treasures before it became illegal have donated them to such organizations as the Gold and Jade museums. Those who maintain possession of artifacts are strictly regulated in how they may handle and display them. Many hotels have custody of and display pre-Columbian artifacts.
Filibusters were North Americans who raised armies and attempted to overthrow small Central American countries in the mid-19th century. William Walker was a notorious—and unsuccessful—filibuster in Costa Rican history during the 1840s.
The guanacaste tree is the national tree of Costa Rica. It is a towering shade tree that is predominantly found in Guanacaste Province. It gets its name from the indigenous peoples names for tree (guana) and ear (caste), as the curled seed pods resemble a human ear. It was selected as the national tree in honor of Guanacaste Province's act of voting to leave Nicaragua and join Costa Rica in 1826.
It is considered good luck in Costa Rica to give someone a guanacaste seed, and for the recipient to pass it on to someone else to share the good luck. Many local artisans who sell jewelry on sidewalks use guanacaste seeds and other natural materials to create beautiful earrings and necklaces. Look for the jewelry on display by San Pedro mall in front of the taxi queue.
San Jose's 35,000-seat Estadio Nacional in Sabana Park was financed by the Chinese government and built by Chinese workers. It is considered a gift to Costa Rica.
T-shirts featuring Costa Rica's "army" by air, land and sea (native birds, leatherback turtles and fish) are a popular souvenir.
You will likely fly in or out of San Jose's Juan Santamaria International Airport (SJO) if your cruise ship begins or ends its journey at one of Costa Rica's ports—Puntarenas and the nearby container Puerto Caldera on the Pacific coast, or Puerto Limon and the nearby container Puerto Moin on the Caribbean side.
The road between Puntarenas and San Jose has cut the drive to the capital to just one hour. The road between San Jose and Limon is unpredictable weather-wise, so visitors on a tight schedule should consider booking a charter flight. A more affordable option is the public bus, which costs 5,000 CRC, or no more than US$11 one way, and runs daily every few hours.
Sights—The strange and beautiful Winchester Mystery House; the historic Peralta Adobe and Fallon House; the Montalvo Arts Center.
Museums—The amazing interactive exhibits at The Tech Museum of Innovation; masterworks at the San Jose Museum of Art; the large collection of Egyptian artifacts at the Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum & Planetarium.
Memorable Meals—The enchanting ambience and French fare at La Foret Creekside Dining; the funky atmosphere of Henry's Hi-Life.
Late Night—Drinking and dancing at San Jose Bar and Grill; live music at JJ's Lounge.
Walks—A hike in nearby Alum Rock Park; Santa Cruz Mountains in Portola Redwoods State Park; a stroll along the boardwalk at Santa Cruz Beach; a rose-scented walk through Guadalupe River Park & Gardens; a hike in the hillside trails around the Montalvo Arts Center.
Especially for Kids—The Children's Discovery Museum of San Jose; Happy Hollow Park and Zoo.
San Jose is in the Santa Clara Valley, otherwise known as Silicon Valley. It is bordered by two mountain ranges, the Santa Cruz Mountains to the west and the Diablo Range to the east. Two rivers, the Coyote and the Guadalupe, run through the city. San Jose is at the southern end of the valley, about 50 mi/80 km south of San Francisco and about 40 mi/64 km south of Oakland.
Several neighboring Silicon Valley cities are close enough to visit for sightseeing, shopping or dinner. (Most sit 5-15 mi/8-24 km north or northwest of downtown.) These include Santa Clara, Sunnyvale, Cupertino, Campbell, Mountain View, Los Altos, Palo Alto, Menlo Park and Woodside. Morgan Hill-Saratoga and Los Gatos (a small historic town) lie south of San Jose. You'll hear locals refer to the entire area as the South Bay, part of the sweeping metropolitan Bay Area.
The Ohlone people inhabited the San Jose region for thousands of years before Spanish explorers entered the valley in 1769. The Spanish quickly established settlements, and on 20 November 1777, Lt. Don Jose Moraga founded El Pueblo de San Jose de Guadalupe. With its name later shortened to San Jose, the city became the first civil settlement in what is now the state of California. San Jose came under Mexican rule briefly in 1821, during the Spanish American War. It became part of the United States in 1846. In December 1849—the year California's statehood was established—San Jose was designated the state's first capital. It was later replaced by Sacramento.
As the area around San Francisco Bay grew in the 1900s, so did San Jose in the South Bay—it earned the name Valley of Heart's Delight because of its acres/hectares of beautiful orchards. However, it wasn't until computer technology took off between 1960 and 1990 that San Jose experienced the "silicon rush."
Tech firms began cropping up along its freeways, and their workers started filling the city. Eventually, the area was nicknamed Silicon Valley, as it became home to many of the big names in the industry, including Intel, Sun Microsystems and Apple Computer. One of the major changes the high-tech boom brought to the valley was diversity. Walk along any trail or through the malls and you can hear people speaking in a variety of languages. Local entertainment in the area has also benefited from the ethnic diversity.
The influx of tech companies and their employees hasn't been without cost, however. Housing prices there are among the highest in the U.S. As the firms expanded, they turned pastoral fields and orchards into subdivisions, strip malls and parking lots.
Founded in 1777, and part of the former Spanish colony known as Alta California, San Jose is officially known as El Pueblo de San Jose de Guadalupe.
U.S. Presidents Gerald Ford, George H.W. Bush and Bill Clinton have stayed at the Fairmont Hotel in San Jose and so has the Dalai Lama. Clinton actually stopped at a McDonald's on San Carlos Street for french fries while out on his morning run—long before his bypass surgery.
Mercury pulled from San Jose mines was used to process gold during the California Gold Rush of the 1840s. One of the country's largest active mercury mines continues to operate on the outskirts of the city.
Scenes from Memoirs of a Geisha were filmed at the beautiful Hakone Gardens in nearby Saratoga.
The statue of Quetzalcoatl (a Mesoamerican god) in Plaza de Cesar E. Chavez is a controversial work of art. One man called it a giant dog dropping, and many have likened it to dinosaur excrement—not exactly in those words.
The Smothers Brothers comedy duo attended San Jose State University and began their career in small clubs in San Jose.
San Jose was the California state capital briefly, before it was moved to Sacramento.
As part of Los Cabos—a name bestowed by Mexican tourism officials upon the once-remote Baja California communities—San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas frequently are considered to be the same type of place. However, party-hearty Cabo San Lucas is strictly a resort, while 200-year-old San Jose del Cabo is a bona fide—although small—Mexican town with a shady plaza and pastel pink and blue houses.
Visitors from abroad often find San Jose del Cabo one of the most Americanized resorts in Mexico with English as common as Spanish on signs, many expatriates running businesses, and prices on restaurant menus, in shops and bars, and on tours given in U.S. dollars instead of Mexican pesos. You can get a sense of the natural beauty surrounding Los Cabos, though, from the lookout point above Costa Azul, a popular surfing beach just south of San Jose.
San Jose del Cabo stands apart from other resort destinations in Mexico such as Cancun or Puerto Vallarta because of its climate, geography, terrain and its former life as the last frontier on the Baja Peninsula. Visitors to San Jose del Cabo are lured by its deep-blue sea, coves and beaches, dramatic rock formations and desert landscapes; however, in addition to basking in the temperate climate, they also play golf, go deep-sea fishing, scuba diving and snorkeling, whale-watch and explore Baja off-road.
Sights—Plaza Mijares, the pleasant main square; the drive along the Eastern Cape Road; isolated beaches.
Memorable Meals—Tacos on the patio of El Ahorcado; exquisite Mexican cuisine at Mi Cocina; sushi at Nick-San.
Walks—Boulevard Mijares, with its outdoor cafes, galleries and craft boutiques; the long beaches.
Especially for Kids—Whale-watching, swimming with dolphins, fishing, riding glass-bottomed boats, snorkeling and other activities organized by child-friendly resorts.
Known as Los Cabos, the region is made up of the towns of Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, as well as a 20-mi/32-km stretch of shoreline called the Corredor Turistico (Tourist Corridor) that connects them.
The four-lane highway traversing the Corridor parallels the coast and is lined with upscale resort developments and golf courses. Cabo San Lucas lies at the extreme southern end of Mexico's Baja California Peninsula in the state of Baja California Sur. San Jose del Cabo lies to the north along the eastern seaboard, and the international airport is located nearby.
Boulevard Mijares, the main street through San Jose del Cabo, has been designated a tourist zone. It's lined with small shops and cafes that are interspersed with small grocery stores and private homes. A block east on Avenida Zaragoza is the pleasant zocalo (main plaza), with its tree-shaded gazebo and wrought-iron benches. Facing the square, La Iglesia de San Jose, the parish church on the zocalo, bears a tile mural depicting the death of Padre Nicolas Tamaral.
The center of San Jose is undergoing considerable change. Entrepreneurs have converted old adobe homes into classy shops and restaurants, beautifying the town and attracting tourists. Among the conversions are a series of art galleries that have remade San Jose into an art destination with collections of local and famous Mexican painters.
Most of San Jose's resort-style hotels are located along the beach south of town, where Boulevard Mijares intersects Paseo San Jose. The beaches around the resorts are great for walking or horseback riding, but the water isn't recommended for swimming because of its strong surf.
At the end of the hotel zone is the Estero San Jose, an estuary that used to shelter more than 200 species of birds until it was all but destroyed by Hurricane Juliette in 2001. Hikers can walk on the beach to the estuary.
Seafarers have long been attracted to the shores of what is now Los Cabos. In the late 16th and early 17th centuries, legend has it that notorious English seafarers such as Sir Francis Drake and Thomas Cavendish concealed themselves in the bays and coves along the southern coast of the Baja Peninsula, slipping out to ambush passing Spanish galleons traveling from Acapulco to the Philippines.
The first settlers in San Jose del Cabo were Jesuit missionaries sent from Spain, who built a mission in 1730 after being drawn to the area by an estuary, which produced the lush landscape still found today. The fresh water of the estuary tumbles down from the nearby sierra where heavy rainfalls are prevalent. At first, the evangelization of the Guaycura and Pericu natives went well, but eventually they rebelled and burned down the mission. (Padre Nicolas Tamaral, a Jesuit priest and founder of the town, was killed and dragged through the desert during an uprising against the missionaries in 1734.) By the early 1800s, however, European diseases had decimated the indigenous population.
Then came periods of mining and farming by new immigrants, who built a community and produced sugarcane and leather goods that they traded at the Mexican mainland across the Sea of Cortes. For a brief period during the Mexican-American War of 1846-48, U.S. marines occupied San Jose. They left after peace was declared, and San Jose went pretty much unnoticed until after World War II. That's when private planes began flying in celebrities—Bing Crosby and John Wayne among them—to go deep-sea fishing.
Because the area was remote and difficult to reach, it remained the private hideaway of a few well-heeled travelers until the 1970s, when the Mexican government completed the Transpeninsular Highway. The highway gave Californians a straight, 1,060-mi-/1,705-km-long shot to the tip of Baja. This improved access and the area's beautiful setting made it a natural pick when the Mexican government went scouting for resort sites, and construction has been going on in earnest since 1976.
The first golf course in Los Cabos was a nine-hole green constructed in San Jose del Cabo, and it still attracts players although it's been eclipsed by newer and grander golf courses along the Tourist Corridor. Farming still plays a big part in the economy as tracts of land are being converted to organic farms producing avocados, oranges, tomatoes and other staples for the area hotels and restaurants.
Today, San Jose del Cabo is an internationally renowned tourist destination that, along with Cabo San Lucas, attracts more than three million visitors each year. All this growth, which has been slower in San Jose (for which city officials are grateful) has brought prosperity and a greater purpose in conserving the town's historic downtown.
San Jose del Cabo dates to the 17th century when it was a stopover for Spanish galleons en route between Acapulco and the Philippines.
The estuary near the Holiday Inn Resort Los Cabos was once a place where pirates lurked; today it is a bird sanctuary.
The herb damiana, which grows wild in the desert, is said to be an aphrodisiac and is used in a liqueur of the same name.
Each winter, more than 10,000 gray whales migrate from their Arctic feeding grounds to the waters surrounding the Baja Peninsula, a journey of 5,000 mi/8,000 km.
San Jose del Cabo is a 35-minute drive from the Marina Cabo San Lucas, where the cruise ships call. Cruise ships anchor offshore, and passengers are tendered to the dock at Muelle Principal (main dock), next to the modern, full-service Marina Cabo San Lucas.
The marina itself has restaurants, bars, tour and fishing operators, a state-of-the-art cinema, an Internet cafe, pay phones, restrooms, duty-free shops and a modern shopping mall. Phone the Marina at 143-1251. http://www.igy-cabosanlucas.com.
Tour operators have stands at the marina and will beckon you to take a glass-bottomed-boat ride, dive or snorkel tours, or an all-terrain-vehicle (ATV) or horseback ride. Timeshare salespeople are prevalent. Taxis and tour buses await passengers in the marina's parking lot, but many visitors take advantage of the facilities right in front of them.
Consider signing up for the excursions offered by your ship. They may not be the least expensive way to see the area, but you won't have to waste your limited time making arrangements yourself—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship, which often does not stay a whole day in port. Some cruise ships remain in port 8 am-6 pm, others 6 am-1:30 pm; still others have different schedules.
Typical shore excursions are a tour of the artists' colony of Todos Santos, a lunch or dinner yacht cruise, a ride in an ATV over the dunes, horseback riding or snorkeling off the coast. Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information.
If your ship is staying a half-day or longer in port (few actually do), consider booking a rental car for your day ashore before even embarking on your cruise. A prearranged set of wheels will allow you to explore destinations such as the artists' colony of Todos Santos, on the Pacific side, or just hop around to beaches, shops and restaurants in San Jose, the Corridor and Cabo San Lucas without paying a fortune in cab fare.
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