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Bolivia is an outstanding travel destination, especially for those interested in adventure, culture and ecotourism. Local tour groups proliferate, with many offering hikes along the Inca Trails—the twisting roads and pathways that knitted the ancient empire together. On some outings, visitors glide along remote jungle rivers or cross the nesting grounds of hundreds of species of tropical birds. There are even tours that follow in the footsteps of "Che" Guevara.

Because Bolivia is one of the least developed countries in South America, it tends to be a little rough around the edges. This can be good news: The lack of development has preserved much of the country's wilderness and culture in ways that neighboring countries haven't been able to do. And for many travelers, those rough edges are reason enough to follow in the path of the Incas and of such legendary outlaws as Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

Geography

History

Much of Bolivia's history has centered on its mineral wealth, particularly silver. Vast quantities of the precious metal were discovered at Cerro Rico near Potosi shortly after the Spanish conquered the region in the early 16th century. Exploiters poured in and forced the indigenous people to work in the mines.

To help the miners endure long hours and abysmal conditions, the Spanish encouraged the chewing of coca leaves, a practice that eventually became an integral part of Bolivian culture. African slaves were forced to work the mines as well. (Many of the slaves escaped—their descendants are concentrated in the Yungas.)

The country won independence in 1825 with the help of South American revolutionary Simon Bolivar. At that time, the country was much larger than it is today. During the next century, Chile captured Bolivia's coastline in the War of the Pacific; Brazil took two vast sections of rain forest (and a large number of rubber trees) without firing a shot; and Paraguay grabbed almost two-thirds of the Gran Chaco region during the Chaco War.

The country's government has changed even more times than the borders have: Bolivia has experienced 188 coups. In 1982, the last military regime was replaced by a democratically elected president. Protests, however, are not uncommon, and in October 2003, the president's plan to export Bolivian natural gas via Chile and free-market policies sparked strikes and street protests. The president was forced out of office and Vice President Carlos Mesa was appointed president.

Less than two years later, Mesa also resigned under pressure, amid another round of protests, and after Eduardo Rodriguez's short caretaker regime, the populist Juan "Evo" Morales was elected as Bolivia's first indigenous president in 2006.

One of the biggest problems facing Bolivia's leaders is the struggle between coca farmers and U.S. anti-narcotics agents. Coca is an important (and legal) agricultural product consumed in Bolivia, but much of it is processed into cocaine and transported to North America. The U.S. and Bolivian governments have encouraged coca farmers to plant other crops, but the farmers have (sometimes violently) resisted because no other crop is as lucrative.

Bolivia's indigenous people have long suffered from social and economic exclusion, but in a recent effort to improve this, a new cabinet position was created—minister for indigenous and ethnic peoples.

Snapshot

Bolivia's main attractions include trekking the diverse landscape, Amazon jungle tours, hypnotic Andean music, markets, bird-watching, Lake Titicaca, 17th-century Jesuit missions, the silver mines of Potosi, indigenous culture, archaeological ruins, and the salt flats and pink flamingoes of the Uyuni.

Bolivia is a country for adventuresome nature lovers who are interested in South American culture, who fully understand that they're going to a developing country, who can tolerate high altitudes if bound for the Andes, and some inconveniences and who can tolerate possible delays.

Potpourri

Recent satellite maps and Plato's 2,300-year-old descriptions of Atlantis match the geography of the Altiplano, prompting some scholars to fix the location of the legendary kingdom in Bolivia.

In 1997, the remains of legendary revolutionary Ernesto "Che" Guevara were discovered in a mass grave near the tiny mountain village of La Higuera, where Guevara was executed. Although the body was shipped to Cuba, Bolivians are using Che's mystique to promote tourism.

Of Boliva's nearly 9 million inhabitants, around 70% live in the highlands or Altiplano—mostly in La Paz, around Lake Titicaca, and in the cities of Oruro and Potosi.

Once partly under the control of the Inca empire, Bolivia has 35 distinct indigenous groups with their own languages. It has the largest percentage of indigenous people of any country in South America (roughly 60%, the vast majority Aymara or Quechua). Fewer than 10% of its people are of European descent.

You may see people making their way to a church with a tiny ceramic figure in hand. This is Ekeko. Bolivians simply place a tiny replica of a desired item in Ekeko's sack and assume it will arrive within a year's time.

The traditional folkloric music of Bolivia combines the guitar and other contemporary instruments with the zampona (a reed flute), charango (similar to a ukulele and once made from the shell of an armadillo) and other traditional instruments. Music of the Altiplano has a distinctly minor-key, haunting sound, while the music of the lowlands tends to be brighter and more upbeat.

The Bolivian national dance is called the cueca. Couples waving handkerchiefs spin around each other, symbolizing courtship, love, separation and reconciliation. The best place to see the cueca and other colorful dances is at Altiplano festivals and during Carnaval.

Bolivia is one of the few countries in the world with two capitals. Although Sucre is the judicial capital, most government and many business offices are in La Paz.

Soya and coca are by far the most important agricultural products in Bolivia. Coca production is estimated to generate US$500 million annually in Bolivia, although production is declining somewhat. Soya is about US$1.2 billion and rising rapidly.

Chewing coca leaves is common among campesinos, and most markets in the country have kiosks that sell coca leaves and lejia, a potato- and ash-based "activator" that is used while chewing. To many Bolivians, sharing coca leaves in the form of a tea to drink or a wad to chew is similar to inviting someone to have a cup of coffee—it's an integral part of the culture. And like coffee, coca leaves tend to perk you up a bit.