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Overview

Introduction

Fajardo, Puerto Rico, located on the northeast corner of the island 35 mi/55 km east of San Juan, is the home of El Conquistador Resort, a Waldorf Astoria property, which overlooks a cliff and has its own private island. The resort has good restaurants, a casino, a golf course and other sports facilities, but these facilities may not be available to nonguests during the busy winter season (call in advance). Phone 787-863-1000. http://www.elconresort.com.

Fajardo is often the embarkation point for visits by ferry to Culebra and Vieques islands. No reservations are required. Phone 787-494-0934 for schedules and information.

The nearby Cabezas de San Juan Nature Preserve has coral reefs, mangrove swamps, beach and forest within its 316 acres/128 hectares. The preserve is home to many endangered species. For great views of the area, visitors can climb up the old El Faro Lighthouse.

Las Cabezas can be visited by reservation only Friday-Sunday. Tours run two to three hours; the English-language tour begins at 2 pm. For more information from the Conservation Trust, phone 787-722-5882 (weekdays) or 787-860-2560 (weekends). http://www.paralanaturaleza.org.

Overview

Introduction

Guadalajara is a city of contrasts. The second-largest city in Mexico has undergone significant modernization in the past couple of decades and has attracted numerous multinational businesses, particularly in the high-tech industry, leading to Guadalajara's distinction as Mexico's Silicon Valley.

But Guadalajara remains true to its traditions, and at its heart, Guadalajara is still a conservative, very Mexican city. Its inhabitants, known as tapatios, often refer to Guadalajara as a large town. Guadalajara has the size (and pollution) of a large city but retains the flavor and community of its past.

Mariachi music, tequila, the sombrero and the Mexican hat dance were all born in Guadalajara, and the Mexican city has managed to keep these icons alive without turning them into cliches (or lifeless tourist attractions). Each week a traditional charreada (Mexican-style rodeo) takes place, carrying on the region's hacienda culture.

Visitors will find that Guadalajara is making an effort to preserve the beautiful colonial architecture of its historic center, much of which is arranged around the four main plazas of the original town. These public areas are great for people-watching and absorbing the culture of old Guadalajara. Artisan fairs and live musical performances are often held in or near these plazas.

Must See or Do

Sights—The Catedral; Parque Mirador Independencia and its view of the canyon; Palacio de Gobierno to see Jose Clemente Orozco's legendary mural; Ballet Folclorico, the University of Guadalajara's respected traditional dance troupe.

Museums—Instituto Cultural de Cabanas for Jose Clemente Orozco's murals and his masterpiece, Man of Fire; Museo Regional de Guadalajara for a quick overview of anthropology and painting in the state of Jalisco; Wixarica Museo de Arte Huichol for background information about the yarn paintings and beadwork that represent Huichol culture; one of the ceramics museums in Tonala or Tlaquepaque.

Memorable Meals—Gourmet cocina alta Mexican cuisine at Cocina 88 or El Sacramonte; gourmet regional specialties and an agave education at La Tequila; an interesting fusion dinner with the Guadalajara creative class at neighboring I Latina or Anita Li.

Late Night—Salsa and various Latin dancing at Casino Veracruz; a true cantina experience at La Fuente.

Walks—Sunday's Via Recreativa, in which Avenida Juarez/Vallarta is closed to automobiles; Saturday walking tours originating at Plaza Guadalajara; a stroll from the Catedral through plazas and pedestrian zones to Instituto Cultural de Cabanas.

Especially for Kids—The Zoologico Guadalajara; Trompo Magico Museo Interactivo; Selva Magica amusement park.

Geography

The capital of the state of Jalisco, Guadalajara is located in the Atemajac Valley, on a highland plain that is 5,141 ft/1,567 m above sea level. The city is surrounded by hills and sierras, some of which are falling prey to housing projects. The metropolitan area comprises the neighboring municipalities of Zapopan, Tlaquepaque and Tonola.

To the northeast of the city, there is a huge canyon known as Barranca de Oblatos, with an impressive waterfall called Cascada Cola de Caballo (Horsetail Falls). A large forest, La Primavera, borders Zapopan to the west of the city. Much of the forest, which is home to natural hot springs and more than 200 animal and bird species, is protected natural land. Miguel Hidalgo International Airport lies beyond Tlaquepaque to the south. Past the airport, about 25 mi/40 km south of the city, is Lake Chapala. The communities surrounding the country's largest lake have become expat enclaves, drawing many U.S. and Canadian retirees to the temperate climate.

History

Although the area around Guadalajara saw an agrarian society blossom as early as 200 BC, it did not foster a pre-Columbian empire comparable to others in Mexico. Indigenous groups such as the Huichol and Chapalas were residents of the surrounding highland areas.

The region was brought under Spanish domination in 1532 through the bloody campaign of Nuno de Guzman, whose exploits were so brutal that he was recalled by Spanish authorities in 1538. A final site for the city of Guadalajara, which was named after Guzman's birthplace in Spain, was not chosen until 1542, after three previous sites were abandoned because of attacks and rebellions.

Guadalajara, which became the capital of Nueva Galicia (and later, the state of Jalisco), was an important agricultural and commercial center in the colonial period, trading wheat, cotton, wool and livestock, and developing important textile and leather industries. Its university was founded in 1792.

In 1810, Miguel Hidalgo y Costillo, a liberal priest and a leader in the independence movement, established a revolutionary government in Guadalajara, but his troops were defeated the following year. Rebellion and civil war marked the mid-19th century (War of the Reform) and early 20th century (Mexican Revolution), with Guadalajara the site of some fighting.

By the end of the 19th century, Guadalajara was becoming an economic powerhouse, known as the "Pearl of the West." This is reflected in the neighborhoods outside the city center, most notably along the Avenida Juarez-Vallarta, where the wealthy built elegant houses with a European flair, modeled on villas in France and Spain.

This prosperity and growth continued in the 20th century, when a variety of industries flourished. Industries settling there can count on a strong work force consisting of the 65% of the population that is younger than 25. The city also has the prestigious University of Guadalajara and many other schools that turn out prepared professionals.

Potpourri

Artist Jose Clemente Orozco lost his left hand in a firecracker accident as a child; you can see this in a statue of him in the Rotunda of Illustrious Men next to the cathedral.

Mexicans (and tapatios) claim the best-looking people are from Guadalajara, many of whom have pure Spanish, French or even German ancestry. It's not unusual to see a green-eyed man or natural blonde woman who was born there.

Guadalajara's Chivas soccer team is noteworthy in that it fields only Mexican players.

If you arrive at the Gothic Templo Expiatorio church on the hour, look up: Miniature statues of the 12 disciples exit small doors and re-enter other doors in rotation while carillon music plays.

Secret tunnels underneath the Catedral connect with passageways to other old buildings in the city's center. They are remnants from the days of colonization, war and religious persecution. Some houses downtown still have tunnel access.

Overview

Introduction

Overview

Introduction

The small mountain-town of Jarabacoa, Dominican Republic, 70 mi/110 km northwest of Santo Domingo, enjoys a pleasantly cool climate and is the main gateway to Pico Duarte and a variety of other outdoor thrills.

Constanza, the only other town in the mountains, attracted a number of Japanese immigrants who were brought in to develop the area's temperate fruit crop in the 1950s. The mountain village is set in an exquisitely beautiful valley and offers fantastically scenic mountain-drives for anyone who enjoys challenging four-wheel-drive adventures.

Overview

Introduction

Jaragua National Park protects a rare, dry deciduous forest at the extreme southwest corner of the nation. Endangered hutia and solenodon cling to life amid the cacti and scrub, and jade-colored Laguna Oviedo is a precious habitat for flamingos and other wading birds that can easily be seen from a viewing platform at the visitor center and on boat trips guided by rangers.

Offshore, Isla Beata (off-limits to visitors except by permit) is home to the world's smallest lizard.

Camping is permitted at Bahia de las Aguilas (Bay of Eagles), lined by a gorgeous white-sand beach where three species of marine turtles—including the Caribbean's largest concentration of hawksbill turtles—lay their eggs. The bay is normally visited by a boat trip from the tiny fishing community of Las Cuevas. It can also be reached by an arduous dirt road for anyone up to the challenge; a high-ground-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle is required. Many people take a tent and camping gear and settle in for a lonesome escape from the crowds that line other beaches.

Overview

Introduction

Despite its big name, Kirkjubaejarklaustur, Iceland, is a small village near the Laki lava fields (some of the largest in the world), volcanoes and the Myrdalssandur outwash sands (caused by glacial flooding).

Kirkjubaejarklaustur, located 170 mi/275 km east of Reykjavik, merits one night or a day trip. It's a popular base for visitors of Vatnajokull National Park. If you are driving through, hire a local guide to take you to some of the more well-known natural attractions.

Overview

Introduction

Africa's tallest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro is truly one of the most impressive sights on the continent. "Kili" can be seen from various points in northern Tanzania, and even as far away as Tsavo and Amboseli parks in Kenya. Part of its spectacular appeal is that Kilimanjaro is not part of a mountain range—it's a 19,342-ft/5,895-m dormant volcano rising dramatically from a relatively flat plain—it's the world's highest freestanding mountain.

Clouds blanket the famous snowcapped peak most of the time, often dissipating at dusk and dawn to offer stunning views from Moshi and elsewhere in the vicinity. However, the snowcap is gradually melting. Roughly 85% of the ice has disappeared since 1912, so you may want to see Kili sooner rather than later.

Going on an organized trek is compulsory—and a godsend if you get hurt or sick. Mount Kilimanjaro National Park includes the whole of the mountain above the montane forest belt (higher than 5,970 ft/1,820 m) and a daily park entrance fee is required along with the associated costs for guides and porters. Because of its relatively gentle slope, even inexperienced climbers can climb Kilimanjaro—it is the tallest mountain in the world that can be simply walked up. It is still hard work and you need to be fit (consult your physician first, because of the altitude). The climb takes a minimum of five days—four up and one down—but your odds of reaching the summit will be greatly improved if you add an extra night or two on the way up in order to acclimate to the altitude. Going on an organized trek with a guide and porters is compulsory—and a godsend if you get hurt or sick.

The springboard for all climbs is the town of Moshi, 50 mi/80 km east of Arusha. As such, many people combine a climb of Kili with a safari of the Northern Circuit parks and most tour operators offer this option. There are a number of different trails. The most popular is the Marangu trail, which is the recommended route for older people or younger people who are not in peak physical condition. This route makes use of rest huts that are along the way. (Mandara Hut is at 9,000 ft/2,750 m, Horombo Hut is at 12,225 ft/3,790 m and Kibo Hut is at 15,520 ft/4,811 m.) Experienced mountain climbers may opt for the Machame route, a more scenic and considerably more strenuous path up the mountain. On this, and the other routes, trekkers are accommodated in tents carried and set up by the porters. (The Machame route is known as the whiskey route, and the Marangu route is known as the Coca-Cola route. These nicknames are derived from the climbs' hard and soft natures, respectively.)

Several other possibilities are available, including the very gradual Shira Route and the less busy Rongai Route. Whichever route you take, go well-prepared—some 20,000 people attempt the climb each year, but only about half actually reach the summit. Altitude sickness, known locally as mountain sickness, is the primary reason most don't make it to the top—the important things to remember are to go prepared and take it slowly.

Kili is 295 mi/475 km northwest of Dar es Salaam.

Overview

Introduction

Overview

Introduction

A vast green plateau 270 mi/435 km northeast of Vientiane, the Plain of Jars is named after the hundreds of huge, ancient carved stone vessels that are scattered among the plateau's rolling hills and rice paddies. The largest jar is 10 ft/3 m tall and weighs more than a ton. Little is known of the origin and purpose of these jars. Local legend says they were made to store rice wine following a great victory over an oppressive tyrant, but most archaeologists believe they were grave markers. Still, no full-scale excavation of jar sites has ever been attempted, so these stone megaliths remain enigmatic. The area was heavily bombed by the U.S. Air Force during the Vietnam War, with unexploded ordnance still a dangerous problem for villagers.

However, most tourist areas have been deemed safe by international agencies. After the war, the provincial capital moved from bombed-out Xieng Khouang to nearby Phonsavanh. Day trips could include a visit to the Xieng Khouang Pagoda, which is very much worth seeing. Phonsavanh has several small hotels and guesthouses for visitors, with tour operators organizing daily trips to jar sites and nearby Hmong villages.