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A trip to India is an all-out assault on the senses. You'll travel through dusty heat (or snowy cold in the north), sharing roads with a parade of bicycles, auto-rickshaws, sputtering motorcycles, tinsel-draped trucks, cattle, livestock and the occasional elephant.

At India's sights and markets, the chaos continues: throngs of beggars, hawkers, tourists, near-naked holy men, businesspeople, children and scurrying monkeys. Amid the cacophony, some of the globe's most majestic and historical sights will emerge—the Taj Mahal, the Ganges and the Himalayas.

India, with all its variety, feels more like a series of countries strung together than a cohesive whole. As you move from region to region, you'll be exposed to dramatic changes in cuisine, dress, language, religion, custom and tradition.

Some parts of the country are rife with modern conveniences, and Indians there live in fashionable real estate, surrounded by the trappings of 21st-century consumer capitalism. The growth of the economy is due, in part, to a burgeoning IT, infrastructure and communications industry. Malls, multiplexes and lifestyle stores are opening all over. Yet in some areas, people still don't have access to clean water, electricity, adequate food and medical care. Many people, attracted to cities in search of jobs, stay in clumsy shacks because of unaffordable real estate, resulting in slum regions. This is especially prevalent in India's commercial capital, Mumbai, where the government is building multistoried housing complexes to accommodate these people.

With these contradictions come complications. The mass of humanity that populates India requires that you be patient, flexible and tolerant, which can be difficult if you're troubled by the disparities between India's rigid social classes. The country's religious conflicts and ongoing dispute with Pakistan are also concerns, though these events have been largely confined to certain regions. Most travelers will find these difficulties well worth the rewards, however: India remains an incomparable travel experience.

Geography

India shares borders with Pakistan, China, Nepal, Myanmar, Bangladesh and Bhutan. At its southernmost tip is Sri Lanka. The Himalayas rise out of the north, and the Indian Ocean surrounds the southern portions; the Bay of Bengal in the east and the Arabian Sea to the west make India a peninsula. The fabled Ganges, the holiest and one of the most important rivers in India, originates in the northern Himalayas and flows into huge, flat plains. The plains run into the Deccan Plateau in the south. The western Ghats, made up of the Sahyadri Mountain Range, runs parallel to the coastal Konkan region and separates the west coast from the high plateau of the Deccan.

So vast and varied is India that if you don't remind yourself, you may believe you've passed into another country when you've merely crossed state boundaries. Though somewhat arbitrary distinctions, India is often divided into four regions. The north includes Delhi, Punjab and neighboring states; the magnificent Himalayas; agrarian regions and a distinctive nomadic desert lifestyle. The east is made up of Kolkata (Calcutta), Orissa and other states. The west, which consists of Mumbai (Bombay), Goa and other states, is home to the Western Ghats (a steplike mountain chain), verdant forests and sun-kissed beaches. Separated from the north by the Vindhya Mountain Range, the south comprises Chennai (Madras), Bangalore, Hyderabad, Thiruvananthapuram (formerly Trivandrum, capital of Kerala state) and the Konkan coast along the Arabian Sea and the Coromandel coast along the Bay of Bengal which together make up much of the nation's coastline.

History

India's long history includes a succession of kingdoms and empires, and an often-volatile mixture of religions and cultures. Hinduism, the world's oldest-surviving religion, and Buddhism, established in the sixth century BC, both grew out of the region, though Hinduism has had the greater influence on India. Beginning in the AD 700s, Islam spread to the Indian subcontinent. Muslim rulers first took control of India in the 1100s, and the Islamic Mughal empire (1526-1738) had a lasting impact on the area. Although a sizable Muslim population developed, Hindus remained in the majority.

European powers began vying for colonial control of India in the 1600s, with the British eventually gaining the upper hand. They ruled most of India until after World War II, when a movement led by Mohandas Gandhi and others finally won independence. As the British exited, the region was partitioned into predominantly Hindu India and Muslim Pakistan. The 1947 partition provoked the greatest exodus in human history as 10 million people changed sides—Muslims fleeing west toward Pakistan, and Hindus and Sikhs traveling east into India. Terrible mob violence set the scene for more than 50 years of mutual hostility and suspicion—between 250,000 and 500,000 people were slaughtered before the partition was completed.

India and Pakistan have fought three major wars, including one in 1971 that led to the creation of Bangladesh, and troops continue to fire at each other over the border almost daily. Constant threats of incursion and sabotage have led both countries to expend large proportions of federal resources on their militaries, and both countries now possess nuclear weapons. However, new transport connections by way of buses and trains between the two countries have reduced tensions in the region.

India has made great strides in other areas. It has remained a democracy—despite its turbulent and often-violent politics, including the assassination of two prime ministers. Economic development also has been impressive. In the 1990s, the government abandoned decades of economic isolation and welcomed foreign investors. As a result, advanced industries such as computer-software development and biotechnology have blossomed, though rising prices have proved unpopular, especially with lower-paid workers. The country has also become a favorite business process outsourcing destination for the West. The presence of multinational companies and call centers has created many jobs, especially for youth. Despite huge and visible problems facing the government, India remains one of the most accessible destinations in the developing world.

Snapshot

The foremost attractions in India are the Taj Mahal, religious shrines, the Himalayas, tigers, monkeys, cows, magnificent architecture, beaches, spiritual pilgrimages, great works of art, awe-inspiring scenery, ancient cultures, colonial relics and Bollywood movie musicals.

India will appeal to naturally curious and adventurous travelers (some experience traveling in developing countries will be helpful to those going off the beaten path). For first-time visitors, we recommend escorted tours or well-organized itineraries with previously arranged guides and accommodations in each city. Expect to experience hot weather, severe poverty and unexpected delays or schedule changes. Don't expect deluxe accommodations outside urban or tourist areas.

Potpourri

Hindus believe bathing in the Ganges washes away guilt: Many sadhus (holy men) trek barefoot from Rishikesh to dip three times into the icy water at the source of the river near Gangotri.

Ayurvedic medicine has been practiced in India for more than 3,000 years. The regimen, practiced in different ways in various parts of the country, is designed to prevent everything from skin ailments to cancers by strengthening the immune system. More than 100 Indian colleges offer degrees in traditional ayurvedic medicine.

Indian weddings are elaborate, showy affairs, and can be up to five days long. In certain community weddings, it is customary for guests to dance, sing and play musical instruments while the couple to be married processes by horse, elephant, camel or bedecked car. It's not uncommon for these processions to block traffic. In rural areas, marrying off the brides in a single, mass ceremony is a common way to share expenses.

Chewing betel nut (the seed of the betel palm)—and then spitting it out—is a popular pastime in certain regions of India. Betel nut stains can be found all over, though the government is trying to stop the practice. Spitting is now a punishable offense. Some private building owners have been innovative in curbing the practice by installing images of gods on walls, compounds and staircase corners.

Indians are great fans of cricket; the local joke is this hugely diverse country is united only by its love of the game and distrust of Pakistan. Cricket players have a huge fan following, and victories at international matches are celebrated by lighting fireworks all over the country. As such, many are surprised to find the national sport is actually hockey.

There's a whole legend built around the theory that Christ was in Kashmir during his missing years. The alleged Tomb of Christ lies outside Srinagar.

Most luxury hotels employ physicians, massage therapists and even astrologists to administer massage, medicated steam baths and yoga to their guests.