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Helsinki, Finland's capital, is one of Europe's most interesting and enjoyable cities. Many first-time visitors associate Finland with extreme cold, but the summers—especially in the south—can be magically warm and flooded with light. Even in the depths of winter, daylight is short but present. Although sometimes the skies may be overcast, there are clear, sunny days when the city is illuminated by the sparkle of snow and the dazzling, frozen Baltic Sea.
In recent decades, many inhabitants of Finland's rural regions have migrated to the Helsinki metropolitan area, which has been growing at an amazing rate since the mid-1990s. Helsinki's citizens may have close ties to their rural roots, but they also have fallen in step with the urban beat. Their sense of style, innovation and design is evident throughout the city.
Visitors can stroll through any local park or square and will probably stumble upon an impressive piece of contemporary sculpture. Helsinki's sparkling nightlife and lively cafe culture add much to its travel appeal. Its terrace cafes are often packed with Finns and visitors alike.
Although not generally a city that wears its history on its sleeve, Helsinki offers fine examples of neoclassical architecture in the historic center around Senate Square. Although the city was founded in the 16th century, most of its architecture dates from the 19th century or later. The Helsinki skyline is still evolving as striking buildings emerge downtown.
Helsinki's bold architecture mirrors a national willingness to adopt new technologies and innovations. The head office of Nokia, the mobile-communications giant, is housed in a gleaming glass palace in Espoo, just west of Helsinki. But Finland's traditional roots are never far away. Finns, including Helsinki residents, regard cell phones and other wireless-based technologies simply as what they are: tools.
For relaxation, Helsinki residents and visitors turn to cross-country skiing, ice fishing, sailing and relaxing in the sun by the lake. Finns love fresh air and, even in winter, can be found stepping briskly through Helsinki's parks, around the islands and across the frozen harbor and lakes.
And after a brisk walk, what could be better than a hot gloggi (spiced wine) in one of the city's many bars? (Some even provide blankets for customers who wish to sit outdoors, though it is more common to find propane heaters—especially as smoking is not allowed indoors.)
Visitors to Helsinki shouldn't miss out on the national pastime—a sauna. It is usually followed by a jump into a nearby (chilly) lake to help keep the blood flowing.
Sights—The old island fortress of Suomenlinna; the view of the city from the tower of the Olympic Stadium or the sightseeing tower in Linnanmaki amusement park; the imposing walls carved out of the bedrock at Temppeliaukion Kirkko; the majestic Helsinki Cathedral and Senate Square area including the harborfront market square.
Museums—Finnish modern and classical art, especially from the Romantic movement, at the Ateneum; the open-air museum of traditional rural buildings on the island of Seurasaari; the presentations of Finnish history at the National Museum; modern art at the spectacular Kiasma.
Memorable Meals—Muikku (a regional fish) with reindeer-liver mousse at Elite; crayfish, when in season, at Kappeli; blini, or a bear steak, at Saslik; fried herring, beetroot and mashed potatoes at the earthy Sea Horse; sirloin of reindeer at Lappi; Karelian stew at Zetor; Finnish style tapas at Juuri; salmiakki, local salty licorice candy.
Late Night—The cosmopolitan atmosphere at Boulevard Social restaurant; mingling with hipsters at Siltanen; Finnish karaoke at Yokyopeli following the legendary Thursday night throng at Kaarle XII.
Walks—Lazy strolls along the islands of Suomenlinna and Seurasaari; a walk around Kaivopuisto Park, with stops at various waterside bars; a walk around inland bay Toolonlahti.
Especially for Kids—The rides and attractions at Linnanmaki amusement park and the adjacent Sea Life aquarium; Suomenlinna toy museum; the Korkeasaari Zoo; exhibits, concerts and theater at The Cable Factory; in winter, sledding on the slopes of Koff park; The Heureka Science museum.
Helsinki is a good city for walking: Many of its sites are close together. The city is built on a peninsula, and its coastal promenades trace the shoreline. Forests that extend to Lapland in the north and Siberia in the east also reach close to the heart of the city.
Although Helsinki spreads east and west over several islands, the center of the city stretches north past the railroad station and south to the water, where several fingers of land jut out into the Gulf of Finland. There are a few attractions that will draw you farther north, but most places of interest lie in the city's center. The main north-south axis is Mannerheimintie on its west side, Hameentie on the eastern part of town. The east-west axes are the shopping streets of Bulevardi and the Esplanade. The intersection of these routes roughly marks the city center.
Even though the city has many prominent landmarks, such as the Olympic Tower and the Helsinki Cathedral, they are only sporadically visible, even though few city blocks extend higher than six or seven floors. Of infinite help are the street maps found at most major intersections. For a quick way to get your bearings, hop on a 2 Tram, which passes by most of the major landmarks.
Swedish King Gustaf Vasa founded Helsinki in 1550 as a commercial rival to Estonia's Tallinn. The idea was not an immediate success, and King Gustaf had to force people to migrate from the rest of the country—especially the west coast—to the new town, which was first located where the river Vantaa flows into the sea, several miles/kilometers to the north of the present center. The anniversary of this edict, 12 June, is now celebrated as Helsinki Day.
In 1748, fearing the growing power of Russia, Swedish authorities began to fortify Helsinki's offshore islands, creating the impressive fortress of Sveaborg (now Suomenlinna). Nevertheless, in 1809, Russia took over Finland, ousting the Swedish rulers. The Grand Duchy of Finland was created, and Helsinki was declared its capital in 1812. In keeping with the city's new status, its wooden buildings were gradually replaced with landmarks made of stone. Most of them are standing in downtown Helsinki to this day.
During the turmoil of the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917, Finland declared independence from Russia, and the Sovereign Republic of Finland was created, with Helsinki as its capital. Unfortunately, this move precipitated a short but vicious civil war between those who wanted a Communist state and those who did not, but Helsinki escaped the conflict unscathed. Ever since, Finland celebrates its Independence Day on 6 December.
The city then grew rapidly, with lots of new construction, such as the Olympic Stadium, which was originally intended for the 1940 Olympic Games. However, World War II broke out—during which Russia attempted, but failed, to regain the country—and the stadium did not host the Olympics until 1952. Helsinki was badly bombed by the Russians during the war, but the damaged areas were quickly rebuilt.
Since the 1950s, Helsinki has grown rapidly and has hosted a number of important intergovernmental conferences, especially between the former Soviet Union and the West. Finland had extensive trading links with Russia and, following the collapse of the Soviet Union, suffered an economic recession. It rapidly recovered, however, and in 1995 the country joined the European Union. Four years later, the country adopted the euro as its standard currency.
Unemployment, once a problem in Helsinki and other parts of the country, has fallen to European levels following Finland's integration with Western Europe. Culturally and socially, the city is as alive as it has ever been. In August 2005, it played host to the World Championship in Athletics, a major event that drew thousands of visiting athletes and spectators to the city. In May of 2007 it put on the Eurovision Song Contest, and in September 2009 it hosted the UEFA Women's Championship of Soccer. In 2012 it took on the role of World Design Capital. It continues to improve as one of world's best cities to live in.
The tallest building in Helsinki is the 290-ft-/89-m-tall Hotel Torni Tampere, a "skyscraper" of only 25 floors.
The ferries from Helsinki and Hanko to Stockholm and to a lesser extent, Helsinki to Tallinn, Estonia, are much more popular as party cruises than transportation. But the cruise from Stockholm also meanders through some of the world's most beautiful archipelago scenery.
Finns reportedly have the world's highest rate of coffee consumption per capita—as much as nine cups a day.
Finland maintains a system of national emergency sirens, which can indicate anything from a major forest fire to a full-scale nuclear attack. The sirens in Helsinki are tested every 15th day of the month at noon. If that day is a Saturday or Sunday, the test is made on the following Monday.
The Finnish language doesn't have a future tense. Speakers can overcome that problem by inventive use of the verbs "to come" and "to intend."
Until the breakup of the Soviet Union in the late 1980s, Helsinki was used as a backdrop for movies set in Soviet Russia. Many residents remember the giant portrait of Lenin that adorned one facade during the making of Gorky Park, while many others got jobs as extras when Helsinki stood in for revolutionary Leningrad in Reds.
In 2007, Finland's "Person of the Year" was Bubi, an eagle owl who frequented the Olympic Stadium tower and who took a keen interest in sporting events—especially soccer. His fame originates from his interruption of an important game between Finland and Belgium when the bird distracted the Belgian goalie by sitting on his goal. The Finnish national team has been nicknamed the "Eagle Owls" ever since.
Helsinki's two main passenger harbors—the South and West Harbors (Etelasatama and Lansisatama) are some distance apart. The Olympia Terminal at the South Harbour is close to and can be reached on foot from the downtown area—it's where the enormous Stockholm ferries (Viking and Silja Lines), many cruise ships and hydrofoils, and fast boats to Tallinn dock. Larger Tallinn ferries run from the West Harbor; Tram 9 from the railway station runs there. Both terminals are served by taxi ranks, which are well supplied when ships arrive. Both terminals have cafes but no tourist-information booths; there are mobile tourist-information services during the summer season.
Cruise ships dock in and around the South Harbor, as well as at Munkkisaari Quay in the Hernesaari area, with small souvenir shops. Taxis need to be ordered in advance to this arrival point, although most cruise operators organize shuttle buses to the city center. The downtown district is a 20- to 30-minute walk away. The additional Vuosaari Harbor, located northeast of the South and West harbors and accessed via bus 90B from the Vuosaari metro station, hosts passenger travel from Helsinki to Travemunde and Rostock, Germany, and to Gdynia, Poland.
The ports are developing rapidly; travelers are advised to consult the website for the latest information. http://www.portofhelsinki.fi.
Reliable information for those arriving on cruise and other ships is also available at http://www.discoverthebaltic.com.
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