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Geography

History

In the Middle Ages, the Mossi kingdoms of what is now Burkina Faso controlled the trade routes connecting southern animist centers along the Gold Coast to the northern Islamic kingdoms of Timbuktu, Mali, Gao and Bornu. The kingdoms were broken up in 1896 when the French established colonial protectorates. Independence was granted to Upper Volta, as it was then called, in 1960.

In 1984, the country's name was changed by populist Capt.Thomas Sankara, the nation's leader at the time, to Burkina Faso, which combines words from the two most-widely spoken national languages. The name translates as "The Land of Honorable or Upright People." (Burkina means "honor" or "uprightness" in Moore, the Mossi language, and Faso means "homeland" in Dioula.) Sankara's popularity soared when he announced that workers would not have to pay rent the following year. He also increased the country's standard of living and education level and ran a fiscally sound, corruption-free government. However, Sankara was venerated by the Burkinabe primarily for teaching them to embrace their African identity and to be proud of it. For example, he made a point of eating local dishes on national television instead of avoiding them in favor of Western recipes, as some other African officials have done. However, Sankara's militancy was not in line with conservative African culture, with its strict protocol and its emphasis on respect for elders. Sankara, who came from the minority tribal group known as Silmi-Mossi, remained in charge until 1987, when he was shot, allegedly under order from his close friend and second in command, Blaise Compaore, who was elected president (as the only candidate) in 1991. Many people in the country believe that Compaore, who comes from the Mossi group, as do the majority of the people, wished to silence the rebellious antics of the young minority upstart, who had gone so far in his effort to punish corruption that he had the electric company cut off all the power in the Mossi palace until the Mossi king paid his electric bill. Such actions brought Sankara many enemies along with much popular support.

Nowadays, people have a tendency to romanticize the qualities of the assassinated leader they once criticized. That's partly because, once again, the system is riddled with corruption, and Burkina Faso remains one of the poorest countries in the world. There is, however, a rush to embrace open competition in a free market. Improvements in festivals such as FESPACO and SIAO have led to much growth and trade, and the Burkinabe are enthusiastic about future opportunities afforded by such events.

Compaore was elected for a third successive term as president in 2005, and he has brought relative economic growth to Burkina, as well as political stability, compared with other countries in the region. However, occasional accusations of arms smuggling to Liberia, or of harboring Ivorian rebels, have raised tensions with neighbors and international donors alike. The mysterious, and unresolved, death of popular journalist Norbert Zongo in 1998 has also continued as a focus for much internal discontent. But efforts in developing a free press and workers rights, and in combating a number of social problems, have contributed to the sense of progress in the country.

The recent civil war in Cote d'Ivoire has badly affected Burkina, since many Burkinabe live there, sending money to their families back in Burkina. The troubles have interrupted this source of income and have caused hundreds of thousands of Burkinabe to flee, returning as refugees to their own country.

The dominant ethnic group is the Mossi, a farming people from the central region of the country, who regard Ouagadougou as their center. The Fulani and Tuareg peoples live in the north, the Samo in the northwest, the Lobi and Gourounsi in the south, the Bobo in the southwest and the Gourmanche in the southeast. This is a rough grouping of just a few of the more than 60 distinct ethnic groups in the country, most with their own distinct language.

Snapshot

The main attractions of Burkina Faso are fascinating culture, Africa's best film festival, markets, nightlife, modern and traditional music, friendly people and indigenous crafts.

The country will appeal to experienced travelers who have been to other West African countries and are interested in a deeper understanding of this region's culture. The country will not appeal to travelers who demand deluxe facilities, who will be upset by delays in schedules or who desire dramatic scenery.

Potpourri

Someone once said that West Africa is about one-third Catholic, one-third Protestant, one-third Muslim and 100% animist. (Animism is a modern term that lumps together all the traditional religions of Africa into one deceptively simple term.) In Burkina Faso, there is no shortage of churches, cathedrals, mosques and sacred grounds to visit.

Although many ethnic groups keep herds of cattle, the animals are often kept more for security and status than for food. People rarely eat beef because that would diminish their herds, and large herds are an important resource and sign of wealth. Milk is sold to help provide for daily needs, and an animal may be killed for a special event, or sold in times of hardship.

The Burkina Faso government has helped develop an internationally recognized film industry. For a great insight into the country, try to see some films by Burkinabe directors: Idrissa Ouedraogo's Samba Traore, Dani Kouyate's Keita: The Heritage of the Griot, Gaston Kabore's Homeland and Fanta Regina Nacro's The Night of Truth.

Nightlife is great in Burkina Faso's cities. As the cooler evening air descends, Burkinabe fill the streets to stroll, hit the cinema or check out the music clubs. When not recording in Paris or New York, groups like the Coulibaly Twins and Farafina, or more recently the Burkinabe hip-hop artist Yeleen, and "Mai" Lingani with her group Burkina Electric can be found playing at clubs in Ouaga and Bobo. Burkina even has its own annual jazz festival.

Wrestling matches are popular entertainment in the rural areas. Interclan rivalry is strong, as each fighter faces off to the accompaniment of his own groups' griots (traditional musicians) and drummers.

Burkina Faso has been severely affected by recurrent Sahel droughts, which have devastated the herds and productive farmland of communities in the northern region. To combat the desert's encroachment, volunteers have laid out lines of rocks along the land's contours around many villages to slow rainwater runoff, and planted millions of trees throughout the country to keep the thin topsoil from blowing away.

The name Sahel comes from the Arabic word for "shore"—the Sahel is the "shore" of the Sahara Desert.

The highest point in the country is Mount Tena-kourou, in the southwest near the border with Mali.

The country's former name, Upper Volta, came from the three Volta rivers (White, Red and Black) that pass in a north-south direction through the country (ending at Lake Volta in Ghana).

Cave paintings can be found in the cliffs of Borodougou, near the center of the country.