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Bhutan is the only country in the Himalayas where the Vajrayana Buddhist culture survives intact. However, the fall of other kingdoms that represent this vibrant culture, such as Tibet, Sikkim and Ladakh, and the encroachment of globalization make the survival of this tiny Buddhist nation increasingly fragile and poignant.

In Bhutan, trekkers will find an alternative to the overcrowded trails of Nepal. Serious photographers will be impressed with the country's traditional architecture and abundant wildlife. (Herds of yaks graze in its high-country valleys, and rare snow leopards, blue sheep and black-necked cranes can sometimes be spotted in its farthest reaches.) Others can find pleasure in the elaborate tsechus (religious festivals) that are held throughout the year at various dzongs (fortress monasteries). Nearly everyone who visits Bhutan will be awed by the unsurpassed majesty of the Himalayas.

But it's neither easy nor cheap to visit Bhutan, which is tucked in between India and China (Tibet). No independent travel is allowed in the country—all visitors must book their trip through a state-licensed travel office or a foreign travel agent who deals with a local partner. The government charges all travelers a daily fee, to which the Bhutanese company may or may not add its own operating costs.

On the brighter side, your trip is usually free of the hassles associated with travel in other countries in this region, as the fee covers lodging, food, tours and comfortable transportation in well-maintained buses, SUVs or cars. The fee also includes a guide with whom you can plan your itinerary.

Geography

A sliver of a country in the Himalayan range, Bhutan is bordered on the north by Tibet and the south by India. Though highly mountainous, Bhutan has a surprisingly diverse topography. Much of the country is heavily forested, and the central region has abundant farmland. The southern part of the country, which is closed to visitors, is temperate and semitropical.

Most visitors see western Bhutan, which contains the country's main cities and most of its people. The area has steep hills, lush valleys and a number of winding rivers. Many fabled Buddhist monasteries are in central Bhutan, which is divided from the west by the Black Mountains—excellent terrain for trekking. Eastern Bhutan, which has steep slopes but lower altitudes and a warmer climate, contains extensive farmland and is renowned for handwoven clothes and textiles.

History

Bhutan boasts of being the world's last Vajrayana Buddhist kingdom. Its Buddhist tradition began in the eighth century, but its roots as a country date back to the 1600s, when a Tibetan refugee, Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, transformed the area from a collection of rival fiefdoms into a unified nation and built the extensive system of dzongs. Following the Shabdrung's death, penlops (governors) and dzongpons (chiefs) who had settled in regional dzongs were involved in numerous power struggles until the late 1800s. Ugyen Wangchuck, Penlop of Tongsa, finally emerged as the first king (Druk Gyalpo).

For most of the 20th century, the tiny landlocked kingdom called Druk Yul (Land of the Thunder Dragon) was virtually unknown to outsiders: Telephones, electricity, paved roads, airports, hospitals, formal education, postal service and foreign relations were nonexistent. Business was conducted on the barter system. It was only in the 1960s that these elements of infrastructure were put in place, and only in 1974 were tourists allowed into the country.

King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the fourth king, who ruled 1972-2006 (his son, Jigmen Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, replaced him), was considered a progressive-minded leader who encouraged the sensitive process of opening Bhutan to modern influences. In 1999, he allowed his country access to television and the internet. The same year the nation's first feature-length film was released. (The Cup depicts a burgeoning soccer craze among Buddhist monks.) Another film, Travelers and Magicians, by the same director debuted internationally in 2003. The film is a delicate fable about the illusory world of dreams and the true nature of reality as taught in Buddhism.

Other initiatives have been calculated to ensure that Bhutan is not overwhelmed by the modern world. Maintenance and restoration of the nation's dzongs are high priorities—not merely as historical artifacts, but as functioning monastic and governing communities. All new buildings constructed by private and government agencies or individual homeowners must receive approval from the state Division of Works and Housing, which is responsible for the standardization of architectural styles and regulations. Designs for new buildings must incorporate an officially regulated number of traditional elements aimed at preserving Bhutanese aesthetics as well as the livelihood of the artisans who specialize in the traditional designs.

The king also passed into law a decree requiring the maintenance of 60% of the kingdom's total area under forest cover—for all time. Among other measures to protect the culture, traditional robes must be worn by all citizens in government buildings and at official functions, under penalty of a fine. And tourism, although encouraged, is controlled by the governmental regulation of high tariffs. Even today, the vast majority of the people are subsistence farmers, and the Bhutanese, who call themselves Drukpas (Dragon People), hold strongly to ancient traditions.

Wangchuck (the fourth king) also tried to make the monarchy more democratic. The National Assembly can now revoke the royal title with a no-confidence vote, and according to his wish, the first democratic elections were held in 2008.

The resettlement of ethnic Nepalese refugees from Bhutan's western regions back to Nepal began in 2008 under the auspices of the UNHCR (United Nations High Commission for Refugees). While it was a point of contention for the Bhutanese people, the Nepalese, who believed that region was their original home for centuries, have been successfully repatriated following international support and aid.

Snapshot

Bhutan's main attractions are mountain scenery, beautiful architecture, Buddhist culture, spirited village festivals, game reserves, temples, monasteries, jagged gorges, green valleys, trekking and historical sites.

Bhutan is a good destination for flexible, adventurous travelers who are visiting India or Thailand and who enjoyed Nepal, Tibet or the Ladakh region of India. Although there are several high-end resorts, the country is generally not for those who require deluxe accommodations, who are adversely affected by high altitudes, who desire a wide variety of food, shopping and nightlife, or who will become upset if everything doesn't go exactly as planned.

Potpourri

The national dress code—khos for men and kiras for women—was established in the late 1980s to establish a sense of national unity.

There are no traffic lights in Bhutan. The first set was removed within days as people did not like them.

In some parts of Bhutan, villagers hang wooden phalluses from the roofs of their houses to ensure good crops and healthy children.

During the Fire Blessing festival in Bhumtang, people of all ages run through burning hay to purify their souls.

Nearly all dzongs (fortress monasteries) are dual-use complexes built by Shabdrung Ngawal Namgyal in the 17th century. Villages often take their names from the nearest dzong.

Bhutan has recorded more than 600 species of birds, including the black-necked cranes from Tibet that winter there. Other rare animal species include the bharal (blue) sheep, golden langur (monkey), red panda, takin (the national animal) and snow leopard.

There are only about 50 names commonly given to Bhutanese people. They are not necessarily passed down to family members, however, but are chosen as auspicious at the time of birth and can be first or last names.

Bhutan has imposed a national ban on smoking in offices and restaurants. Some areas have imposed a total ban.

Along with rice, hot chili peppers are the single most important ingredient of the Bhutanese diet, and issues over chili are hotly (no pun intended) debated in the National Assembly.

Most visitors perceive the atsaras, or clowns, at the annual tshechus (festivals) as buffoons because of their antics. In actuality, they are highly respected religious teachers and the word atsara is derived from the Sanskrit, acharya, or "great teacher."