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Trinidad is alluring, a constant surprise to first-time guests, but it's not just another carbon-copy paradise. Culturally diverse, the island is a bouillabaisse of more than 40 nationalities and ethnic groups, the largest of which are of East Indian and African descent (each accounting for about 40% of the population). The medley is reflected in everything from food, design and language to music, dance and humor.

At Carnival time, Trinidad throws the grandest, wildest party in the Caribbean. Divali, the Hindu festival of lights in October, draws big crowds, as do many other festivities throughout the year associated with Trinidad's various cultural and religious groups.

Must See or Do

Sights—The subaqueous marvels of Pitch Lake; snorkeling in Dragon's Mouth; the scarlet ibis at Caroni Bird Sanctuary; bird-watching at Asa Wright Nature Reserve; Carnival.

Memorable Meals—Shark-and-bake at one of the waterfront eateries along Maracas Beach; roti from Patraj Roti Shop; rum punch on any beach at sunset; tea at Mount St. Benedict Monastery.

Walks—A stroll along the beach at Maracas Bay; nature trails in the hills behind Pax Guesthouse at Mount St. Benedict Monastery; a hike through the Northern Range or on one of the Asa Wright Nature Centre's trails; a visit to Queen's Park Savannah or the Botanical Gardens in Port of Spain.

Late Night—Dancing to steel drums or calypso music at Mas Camp Pub, Zen Entertainment Center or Jenny's on the Boulevard.

Location

Port of Spain, the capital city and main port, is on the western coast of Trinidad, overlooking the Gulf of Paria. The Cruise Ship Complex is on the south side of the city. It houses the Customs Hall, a slew of souvenir and clothing stores, a bookstore, restaurants and a tourist-information office. Phone 868-627-4477.

Most ships tether at the pier, where passengers are greeted by locals wearing Carnival attire and playing steel drums. Outside the terminal is a crafts market. The city center is just a few minutes' walk away, through the financial district.

The terminal's tourist-information office adjusts its hours to accommodate arriving cruise-ship passengers. The main office in Port of Spain, at 51-55 Frederick St., is open daily 8 am-4:30 pm. Phone 868-624-1403.

A quick 15 minutes from downtown Port of Spain is the 14,500-acre/5,867-hectare Chaguaramas Peninsula, home to the Caribbean's most-protected private-yacht harbor and a bonanza of ecological delights. Numerous marinas fill the Chaguaramas waterfront and provide a full range of marine repairs and construction services at competitive prices, along with supermarkets, restaurants, banks, shops, rental agencies, marine radio services, hotels and self-contained apartments—all within walking distance of the marinas. Because Trinidad lies south of the traditional hurricane belt, insurance companies consider Chaguaramas one of the few safe harbors in the Caribbean.

Shore Excursions

Trinidad, Colorado, located 175 mi/280 km south of Denver, has a well-maintained historic district of Victorian and southwestern architecture. Fisher's Peak, rising 9,655 ft/2,943 m above the city, once guided wagon trains from the Santa Fe Trail to Trinidad.

That era and others are examined by the Trinidad History Museum, which includes several separate sites. The Santa Fe Trail Museum has artifacts related to the important Southwest trade route as well as items from the town's later history. The Trinidad History Museum also operates the Baca House and Bloom Mansion, next-door neighbors that both date to the late 1800s.

The A.R. Mitchell Memorial Museum and Gallery lies in the center of the historic district. The museum features paintings, collections of Old West memorabilia, Native American artifacts and Hispanic folk art.

The Scenic Highway of Legends (Highway 12) forms a breathtaking 120-mi/195-km loop from Trinidad over 10,000-ft/3,050-m Cuchara Pass and through San Isabel National Forest.

The jewel in the crown of Cuba's colonial cities, Trinidad—a hill town 180 mi/290 km southeast of Havana—is one of Cuba's seven original towns, founded in 1514, and its red-tile roofs and cobblestoned streets are a must for visitors to see. Magnificent examples of architecture from the 1600s-1800s still stand (it's a UNESCO World Heritage city), and the streets in the restored early-colonial setting are closed to traffic. The majority of buildings are painted in tropical ice-cream colors. The atmosphere is fabulous—a time warp casting visitors back several hundred years.

Trinidad has a lot packed into a relatively small place—a surprising number of excellent museums, including the Museo Romantico (decorative arts; phone 53-4199-4363), the Museo de Arquitectura (colonial architecture; phone 53-4199-3208), and the Museo de Arqueologia (archaeology and natural science), all housed in former colonial mansions around the main square, Plaza Mayor. The cathedral is also on the square.

You will want at least two days there to immerse yourself in and savor the relaxed yesteryear lifestyle. The town is a center for the Santeria religion, and visits to a babalawo can be arranged. Catholic ceremonies are also more numerous there than elsewhere in the country; Easter is a great time to visit.

Those who stay overnight can choose from the large resort hotels on the delightful beach south of town. The local casa particular (private room rental) industry has flourished; Trinidad now boasts more than 500. If you wish, you might lodge in a colonial mansion filled with antiques, but it pays to shop around, as standards vary widely.

A short distance outside of town in the exquisite Valle de los Ingenios (Sugar Mills Valley). A good way to arrive is via a suburban rail service from Trinidad or—if the creaky and cranky old train is in service—on a touristy steam train.

In the Escambray Mountains north of Trinidad, in the spa resort of Topes de Collantes, is a massive sanatorium. More appealing, the area also has dense rain forest for those seeking wilderness: Trails lead to waterfalls (organized excursions are offered from Trinidad and from Topes de Collantes).

Nearby Playa Ancon is the perfect place to spend a day or more relaxing on the white sand beach or enjoying a snorkeling or scuba diving excursion—the offshore coral reefs are in superb condition.