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Guatemala, often trumpeted by travel agencies and guidebooks as "the country of eternal spring," is one of the most-often listed travel destinations in Central America: the stunning Maya ruins at Tikal, the well-preserved colonial city of Antigua, a vibrant indigenous culture, active volcanoes, highland lakes and exotic wildlife are its chief draws. But the savvy traveler knows that traveling to these gems and safely enjoying them can be a challenge in Guatemala, one of the poorest countries in the Western Hemisphere.

From the 1950s until the mid-1990s, political unrest, followed by the country's bloodiest civil war, were deterrents to travelers—though many of the major attractions were far from the areas of fighting. However, since the war ended in 1996, there has been a spate of improvements in tourist accommodations and infrastructure. Luxury hotels have been built, roads have been upgraded and cruise-ship passengers have begun arriving again at the country's two modern ports of Santo Tomas and Puerto Quetzal.

At the same time, despite these improvements, a continuing high crime rate—including some violent attacks targeting travelers (and those wishing to adopt children in particular)—and endemic poverty have made Guatemala at best unpredictable and potentially dangerous.

We still think Guatemala is an exceptional destination, but we don't take the risks lightly. We urge all visitors to be extremely cautious, and we strongly recommend that you stick to the major tourist destinations and see them on a tour organized by a reputable operator. For added protection, a security escort may be booked for tourist groups through the INGUAT, the Guatemalan tourist institute. Though the vast majority of travelers who venture off the beaten trail enjoy their trips without incident, keep in mind that the problems that do occur generally happen away from large groups or well-traveled areas.

Plenty of tours are available that take in the best of Guatemala. One destination that shouldn't be missed is Tikal—the greatest of the ruins left from the age of the ancient Maya, whose accomplishments in the fields of architecture, mathematics and astronomy are a source of national pride and universal awe. In fact, we think Tikal (and a trip to the nearby island of Flores) is one of the most impressive ruins in the world, in a class with such places as Machu Picchu in Peru or the Valley of the Kings in Egypt. Tikal, with its complex of more than 30 different sites, is alone worth a trip to Guatemala.

But you needn't stop there. Guatemala's ecotourism opportunities (especially bird-watching and forest trekking), continue to increase, particularly in the areas surrounding the natural beauty of the Rio Dulce and Lake Atitlan—considered by many as the world's most beautiful lake—as well as the international-traveler base in the colorful colonial town of Antigua.

Geography

History

The ancestors of the Maya developed agriculture at some point before 2000 BC and so became less dependent on hunting, fishing and gathering. Corn was the reliable staple that allowed the Maya and other great cultures of what is now Mexico and Central America to flourish.

The ancient Maya civilization eventually covered large areas of Mesoamerica. It reached its zenith between AD 250 and 800, though the civilization was still in existence—albeit in a much reduced state—when Europeans arrived in the early 1500s. Today, the Maya of Guatemala's highlands—those furthest removed from colonial influence—continue to practice many of their ancestors' traditions and beliefs.

The Spaniards conquered the weakened and then-divided Maya and took control of what is now called Guatemala in 1524. During the colonial period, Spanish-born colonists held the reins of power, but large groups of Creoles (Spaniards born in the New World) and mestizos (those of mixed Spanish and indigenous heritage) also developed. At the bottom of the social hierarchy were those of pure Amerindian or Afro-Caribbean heritage.

Guatemala gained independence from Spain in 1821, and after a few years as a member of a confederation of Central American states, it became a separate republic in 1847.

Guatemala's seemingly endless political unrest was exacerbated by a 1954 coup—assisted by the U.S. Central Intelligence Agency—that turned out a democratically elected leftist government. A series of military or military-influenced governments then ruled the country with a heavy hand, and resistance became armed and organized.

In response to growing popularity of guerrillas among the landless indigenous people in the 1960s, the army unleashed a campaign of terror in which thousands of people were killed and entire villages were massacred. In late 1996, the civil war ended when a series of agreements was signed between the Guatemalan government and guerrilla insurgents. Over its 36-year history, the war claimed the lives of as many as 200,000 people.

Since the 1996 peace treaty, relations have improved between the Maya and the Ladinos (as those of mixed Spanish and Amerindian descent are known). But Guatemalan life has been far from harmonious. The 2000-04 presidency of Alfonso Portillo (who had very close ties to former president Gen. Efrain Rios Montt) marked a period of skyrocketing crime and rampant corruption. Guatemala City in particular became a very dangerous place.

The next president, Alvaro Colom, took office in early 2008, successfully continuing his predecessor Oscar Berger's policy of curbing corruption and violence; many Guatemalans now believe social conditions are improving, although the economy remains problematic.

After relatively peaceful elections, Colom was succeeded in 2012 by Otto Perez Molina. He is the first former military official to be elected to the presidency since Guatemala's return to democratic elections in 1986, but is dogged by controversy, having proposed legalization of drugs, and is rumored to have committed human rights abuses when in the military.

The business climate of late has improved, but poverty remains widespread in Guatemala, Central America's most populous country. More than half of the people are Maya (the largest indigenous population in the region), the vast majority of whom still live in small farming villages, growing corn and beans as their ancestors did. They are famous for their intricate handmade textiles of brilliant reds, yellows and purples. Numerous Mayan dialects are still spoken in Guatemala—with many dialects spoken by fewer than 100 people. In remote areas of the highlands, you may hear more Mayan than Spanish, even though Spanish is the country's official language.

Snapshot

Guatemala's main attractions include Maya ruins (especially Tikal), beautiful scenery, indigenous markets and culture, Spanish colonial towns, lakes, volcanoes, rain forests, hiking, bird-watching, good food, and clothing and blankets hand woven in traditional Maya patterns.

Anyone interested in Central American (especially Maya) culture and history can enjoy Guatemala, but you should take appropriate precautions against crime. Those uncomfortable in developing countries and those who seek polished resort areas should find another destination.

Potpourri

Guatemala has 23 recognized Amerindian languages, more than any other country in Central America.

Stela D at the Maya ruins of Quirigua is so wonderfully decorated with carvings and glyphs that its image was chosen to adorn Guatemala's 10-centavo coin.

Guatemala boasts three UNESCO World Heritage sites: Tikal National Park, the colonial city of Antigua, and the archaeological park and Maya ruins at Quirigua. There are no fewer than 18 additional sites throughout the country that have been nominated as possible World Heritage sites.

During the colonial period in Guatemala from 1523 to 1821, 17 large earthquakes shook the city of Antigua. The worst hit in 1773—after which the city had to be completely rebuilt.

Tikal harbors more than Maya ruins. About 300 species of birds live there, along with howler and spider monkeys.

The country's Mam indigenous people, centered about Todos Santos Cuchumatan, are considered by anthropologists to have the most intact social structure and lifestyle of any in the country, with a way of life that has remained essentially unchanged for centuries.

Location

Guatemala's primary Caribbean port is Santo Tomas de Castilla (often referred to as Santo Tomas), situated in an inlet southwest of the industrial port of Puerto Barrios, and technically a part of that city. Most cruise ships tie up at Santo Tomas' modern pier, which is often busy with cargo ships as well. A small market has been set up on the dock so that cruise passengers can buy local handicrafts. The port isn't really geared for tourists yet—don't expect to find a tourist information booth or waiting taxi drivers. And there isn't much to do nearby—Santo Tomas itself, formerly known as Matias de Galvez, has a population of about 7,500 people. (The Santo Tomas port was built to replace the aging dock at Puerto Barrios, built in the early 1900s as a loading dock for bananas.)

If you don't sign up for a shore excursion, you can take a complimentary shuttle boat across the lagoon to the Best Western Cayos del Diablo Beach Hotel. You can lounge on the beach (don't expect much) or take a short guided walk on a jungle trail near the hotel for about US$5 per person. The hotel has a pool, as well as a bar and a restaurant.

Just north of Santo Tomas is Livingston (known locally as La Buga), a lively Caribbean-style village of brightly painted buildings that can be reached only by boat. Settled originally by Garifuna blacks who had escaped slavery, the town is rich in both history and culture. A few small ships stop there as part of an excursion up the Rio Dulce to Lake Izabal.

Guatemala's major Pacific port for cruise ships is tiny Puerto Quetzal, about halfway between Mexico and El Salvador on what is often called Guatemala's Pacific watershed. (Because of the area's proximity to the volcanic hills in the interior, you'll see long stretches of black-sand beaches.) Puerto Quetzal has replaced the seedier-looking Puerto San Jose, but nonetheless it isn't really geared for tourists either—the dock is used mainly for unloading cargo when cruise ships aren't around. There are no nearby attractions, except for a small beach—a better one can be found at Balneario Likin, an upscale resort and residential complex to the east that is popular with wealthy Guatemalans.

Shore Excursions

Cruise ships visit Guatemalan ports on either the Pacific or Caribbean coast, but air service within Guatemala has made it possible to enjoy many of the same shore excursions from either side of the country. Most cruise lines offer a tour to the ruins of Tikal in north-central Guatemala and a tour to the Copan ruins in northern Honduras. To go to either, you must travel from the port by chartered plane. Advance reservations are required—sign up early (especially for Tikal tours), as space is limited.

Other shore excursions visit Chichicastenango—if your ship stops in Puerto Quetzal on a Thursday or Sunday, don't miss the chance to attend the liveliest market in Guatemala. Another tour, which is usually offered only by ships stopping at Puerto Quetzal, includes a visit to Antigua and Guatemala City, definitely two must-see destinations. Other options include trips to the quaint villages and beautiful scenery at Lake Atitlan, the Maya ruins at Quirigua and the jungle environment of Rio Dulce. Increasingly, bird-watching and coastal trekking excursions are also offered in conjunction with cruise lines.