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Italians say that Turin (Torino), the major city of the western Alps, seems more French than Italian. Its wide boulevards in a grid pattern and its 17th- and 18th-century architecture do bear more resemblance to Paris than Florence. A stroll about the city center provides architectural enthusiasts examples of Renaissance, baroque, turn-of-the-century and modern buildings. The city is also distinguished by miles/kilometers of 18th-century colonnades.

Turin is the capital of Piedmont, a region that even Italians consider to have the best food in Italy. Many years of French occupation have left a mark on Piedmontese cuisine, which includes more cheese dishes and sauces than is common in traditional Italian cooking. The Piedmontese are an independent-minded people who have invented their own style of cuisine that is neither French nor Italian, but incorporates the best of both. Turin also has a well-deserved international reputation for its coffee and claims to have invented chocolate, or at least gianduiotto, the delicious confection made from chocolate and hazelnut. Temptation beckons in every window, so it is best to leave your diet at home.

Must See or Do

Sights—La Mole Antonelliana for its marvelous 360-degree views of Turin; the replica of the Turin Shroud on display in the Royal Church of San Lorenzo; the Piazza Castello and its Palazzo Reale (the royal palace of the Savoy dynasty); Gran Madre di Dio and the Holy Grail; Basilica di Superga; Via Po and the old city; a short boat ride to Parco del Valentino to see the Borgo Medievale, a reconstructed medieval village.

Museums—Galleria Civica d'Arte Moderna e Contemporanea (GAM), modern art gallery; the Museo Nazionale del Cinema; Museo Egizio.

Memorable Meals—Bicerin (a hot drink made with chocolate, coffee and cream) at Al Bicerin; fritto misto alla piemontese at Tre Galline; cakes at Baratti & Milano; the Slow Food Movement on full display at Eataly.

Late Night—Discos along Via Po near Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

Walks—Strolling under the colonnades along Via Po; window-shopping on the old Roman road, Via Garibaldi.

Especially for Kids—The panoramic lift to the top of La Mole Antonelliana; the tram to Basilica di Superga.

Geography

Turin lies in the Po River Valley at the entrance to Valle di Susa, the historic access road through the Alps to France. The Alps are an hour's drive west of Turin, and today the E70 motorway speeds skiers to mountain resorts on the border with France.

The source of the river Po is in a cave on the top of Monte Viso, a large pyramid-shaped mountain that can be seen on Turin's western horizon. The water gushes down the mountain, descending 500 ft/155 m in its first 10 mi/16 km. By the time it reaches Turin, it is a sedate river that meanders through the city from the south to the northeast.

Turin's central area follows a Roman grid, with streets running northwest of the Po River. The main roads around the center are Corso Regina Margherita to the north, Corso Inghilterra to the west and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II to the south. Piazza Castello is a large square in the center with two colonnaded streets, Via Roma and Via Po, connecting it to Turin's other main squares, Piazza San Carlo to the south and Piazza Vittorio Veneto to the east.

History

Turin's geographical position at the foot of the Alps has made it an ideal place for travelers to rest both before and after the difficult journey through the mountains. The settlement was originally named Taurasia, after the Taurini tribe who lived there around 500 BC. Hannibal rested there with his exhausted troops and one remaining elephant after a terrifying winter journey through the Alps during the Punic wars of 218 BC. He burned the village to the ground.

The foundations of this Roman colony named Taurinorum were laid under Julius Caesar in the final decades of the first century BC. The Roman Empire declined around the fourth century AD, and Turin was once again subject to barbarian invasions. After rule by the Lombards (568-774) and Franks (778-888), Turin passed to the house of Savoy in 1046. The Savoy family ruled for 900 years, eventually becoming kings of Italy—the last Savoy king, Vittorio Emanuele III, abdicated in 1945.

Turin was severely bombed in World War II by Allied forces. The damage was so great that parents loaded their children onto trains bound for the relative peace of Tuscany. One woman, Iris Origo, protected and cared for more than 500 Torinese children on her farm near Montepulciano. Turin benefited from the post-war boom when many southerners moved north looking for work.

The city became a company town and its population soared along with the output of Fiat cars. The car manufacturer's heyday was in the 1970s: Fiat bought Ferrari in 1969 and Lancia in 1978.

The Winter Olympics were held in Turin in 2006, the second time that Italy has hosted the Winter Games. Turin has molded itself into a tourism and business hub by showcasing its culture, food, rich history and tech industry. It is the fourth most-visited city in Italy after Rome, Florence and Venice.

Potpourri

Turin was the first capital of Italy from 1861-1864. The Museum Nazionale del Risorgimento is devoted to the history of Italy's unification and has a display of Italy's first parliament.

Turin has its own version of the famed Ponte Milvio in Rome (which is covered by padlocks on chains placed by lovers): the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I, stretching over the Po River.

According to legend, it's bad luck for university students to set foot near the Mole Antonelliana until after they graduate. This is rather difficult, since the tall structure is right in the middle of the university's campus.

The Slow Food Movement was started in Bra, near Turin.

Vermouth was invented in Turin by Benedetto Carpano, who created the aperitif by blending wine with 13 different ingredients. The Torinese have made a nightly tradition of drinking vermouth at the city's many cafes.

Many movies have been filmed in Turin, including the popular The Italian Job, where Michael Caine zipped all around the city in a Mini Cooper. There's a famous scene of the Mini being driven down the steps of the Gran Madre di Dio while a wedding is in progress.