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For travelers, the most apt symbol for Saudi Arabia may be the veil. The country's traditions, influenced by a strict interpretation of Islam, have long mandated that a woman's features be hidden from public view, and a similar concealment seemed to apply to the country as a whole. It has remained largely unseen and mysterious, obscured by centuries of isolation, an austere religious tradition and the government's lack of interest in developing Western-style tourism.

But in recent years, the veil has been lifted just a bit. The government is now issuing tourist visas to individuals and organized tour groups. Entry requirements and tour itineraries are carefully monitored, but new tourism initiatives are allowing easier access to the country.

Another means of visiting the country is to go as a Muslim religious pilgrim (to the holy cities of Mecca and Medina) or to receive a business visa (which, like a tourist visa, requires official approval and advance planning).

By whatever means you arrive, you'll find Saudi Arabia to be an outwardly modern country that admires the latest technology but at the same time seeks to preserve customs and traditions that date back to the seventh-century days of the Prophet Muhammad—and even earlier.

Geography

History

Though Muhammad had united the geographical area of present-day Saudi Arabia by the seventh century, much of the Arabian Peninsula (primarily the coastal areas) fell to the Turks shortly afterward and remained under Turkish rule until 1913. In World War I, the northwest area was the scene of the legendary battles between the Turks and the Arab forces led by T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia).

In the 1920s and early 1930s, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia took form under the leadership of King Abdul Aziz (known in the West as Ibn Saud). The royal family (known as the Al Saud, or House of Saud) has remained in power ever since. In the 1930s, the country's vast oil reserves began to be exploited, and they soon formed the basis for the nation's high standard of living.

Saudi Arabia's oil wealth has made it an important and controversial player in the Mideast. The Saudis have long supported the cause of Palestinian independence, and the country has been at least partially involved in both the Iran-Iraq War (when it backed Iraq) and the Gulf War (when it sided with the U.S.-led coalition against Iraq). The severe strain of paying for the war against Iraq in 1990-91 took its toll on the government's finances, however. The kingdom's new, more welcoming position on tourism is one of several initiatives intended to promote fiscal responsibility.

Like other countries in the region, Saudi Arabia must deal with the problem of royal succession. In 2005, King Abdullah was in his early 80s when he succeeded his half-brother King Fahd, who had ruled since the 1980s. In 2015, Salman bin Abdulaziz Al Saud took the throne following King Abdullah's death at the age of 79. The next heir to the throne is Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman. Succession is determined by consensus among the leaders of the royal family and the religious establishment. The Al Saud have been quite successful in maintaining their leadership with the support of most sectors of society.

There is some opposition to the Saudi royal family from several different camps. Some reformers desire a less conservative society and a greater degree of Western-style democracy, and other opponents are religious fundamentalists seeking a stricter form of Islamic rule.

Snapshot

The chief attractions of Saudi Arabia are religious shrines (open only to Muslims), Arabic culture, desert scenery, markets, ruins and archaeological sites, and petroleum-related business opportunities.

For a select group of people, Saudi Arabia can be an enriching experience, but anyone making a nonbusiness visit should have a keen interest in the history and culture of the area. Don't visit if you're unwilling to adhere to conservative Islamic traditions. This is especially true for women, who are traditionally excluded from many activities.

Potpourri

Many of the tour groups approved for travel in Saudi Arabia are affiliated with universities: The Saudi government appears to be encouraging visits by educated, culturally sensitive travelers.

T. E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) raided the Hijaz railway in 1916 at the Saudi coastal town of Yanbu. The town is now a refinery and chemical city—not worth a special visit except by Lawrence buffs.

Temperatures in Medina can exceed 110 F/43 C. To provide some relief for sun-scorched pilgrims, giant umbrellas were installed in the Prophet's Holy Mosque. As the temperature climbs, the computer-controlled umbrellas open over the two inner courtyards, providing welcome shade for visiting pilgrims.

Saudi Arabia, the world's largest oil producer and exporter, has some 26% of global oil reserves. Most of it is found along the Persian Gulf coast.

Though Saudi society may seem sexist by Western standards, many Saudis believe their customs show respect for women and protect their femininity.

About 5% of the population is nomadic. Every year the number shrinks, as the government is working hard to settle them.

Most spectator sports are open to men only. The horse-racing season is October-May. If you're in Riyadh in April or May, try to attend the King's Camel Race, where thousands of camels and their jockeys compete (women are allowed to attend).

There are literally thousands of Saudi princes.

The king's powers are not defined, but in practice they are limited because he must retain a consensus of the rest of the royal family, religious leaders and other important elements in Saudi society. Every citizen has the right to have grievances heard by the king.

Friday is the official sabbath/day of prayer, and Thursday and Friday constitute the weekend.