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Niger straddles the Sahel, the unforgiving boundary zone in north-central Africa where the greener climes of the south give way to sandy soil and stunted vegetation and then to the dry silence of the Sahara. At just about any time of the year, it can be a blazing furnace. But Niger is also a hotbed of fascinating traditional cultures—which seem to have little in common with each other.

The people of Niger are as colorful and diverse as the landscape is bleak. To the south, in the more verdant area along the Niger River, are the Hausa, who are farmers and merchants, and the Djerma and Songhai, who retain some of the royal traditions of ancient empire. To the north are the nomadic herders—primarily the Fulani and Tuaregs, some of whom are known as the Blue People because of their use of indigo dye. For the hardiest travelers, who don't mind the heat and inconveniences, Niger is one of the best places in Africa to encounter a variety of contrasting cultures.

Geography

History

Now virtually ignored by the outside world, Niger was once an important crossroads of the salt, slave and ivory trades. For centuries, various states, empires and bands of nomads tried to control it. In the late 19th century, the French began colonizing the area and retained control until Niger gained independence in 1960. Though it was severely hurt by drought and famine in the early 1970s, it made slow but steady progress economically, thanks in part to the exploitation of uranium deposits near Arlit. However, the collapse of uranium prices on the world market and a drought in 1984 once again set the country back. The French government continues to buy the bulk of Niger's uranium at prices well above market value, and the discovery of gold in the region of Goetheye and near the border with Burkina Faso has brought a measure of hope for Niger's economy. Encroaching desertification, however, is changing many traditional ways.

The Tuaregs mounted a full-scale rebellion in 1992, and although the revolt ended with a peace agreement, separatists still launch attacks against the military and the occasional foreign visitor. In 1996, a coup d'etat by Gen. Ibrahim Bare Mainassara ended the country's up-and-down five-year experiment with democracy. Elections held in that year were condemned by some observers as fraudulent, but Gen. Mainassara was elected president nonetheless. Mainassara was not popular, and in April of 1999, he was gunned down by members of his own security force. Members of the military quickly took control of the country, and the ruling junta promised to cede control to the winners of the scheduled elections. As good as its word, the junta stood aside when a civilian government led by President Mamadou Tandja was elected, creating a new, if fragile, political stability.

Trouble soon began to brew again in 2002, as government soldiers, unhappy with pay and working conditions, staged a series of mutinies. The following year, Niger found itself at the center of controversy as both Britain and the U.S. claimed that Niger had sold uranium to Iraq. Though the claim was subsequently denounced as false, it drew unwanted attention to the country and its dependence on the exportation of uranium ore.

That same year, in 2003, Niger criminalized slavery under increasing international pressure. In 2005, however, in an amazing about-face, the government cancelled a public ceremony that was to free some 7,000 slaves, claiming that slavery had never existed in the country. (United Nations statistics suggest that there are still about 43,000 people being held as slaves in Niger.)

Snapshot

Among the attractions of Niger are tribal culture, game parks, desert scenery, architecture and museums.

Niger will appeal only to flexible, tolerant travelers who are experienced in touring developing countries and who are interested in Saharan and West African culture. It is not for anyone who is greatly concerned about comfort and strict sanitation standards, who cannot tolerate high temperatures or whose trip will be ruined by unexpected schedule delays or sudden changes in plans.

Potpourri

If you are in Niger during early September, don't miss the famous Cure Salee of the Wodaabe. The Wodaabe are a sect of the Fulani tribe known for their fine features and great beauty. The Cure Salee is an annual festival where (among other things) Wodaabe men attempt to woo themselves a bride. The stage for their courtship is the gerewol, which is essentially a beauty contest. Eligible men decorate themselves with elaborate make-up and jewelry and dance for hours on end. Eventually, eligible women may choose a man (or not), but the entire festival is terrific, unforgettable theater.

Banking has a bad name in Niger, but that may be changing. Traditionally, most banks have been owned by the state, which may explain why 90% of savings institutions in Niger have failed in the last decade. In contrast, more than 80 "village" or "coop" banks, some with inscrutable names such as "The Suffering Has Come to an End," have opened up across Niger in the last decade. The new banks are locally owned and managed but are backed by a German development firm rather than the impoverished Nigerien government.

M. Ali Seybou, the former dictator of Niger, resides in Ouallam, 60 mi/100 km to the north of Niamey. He is known as an affable host.

The Tuaregs are descended from the light-skinned Berbers of the North African coast. They claim that they are oppressed by the governments of Niger and Mali. Several hundred people have died during the Tuareg uprising in both nations during the past several years. The severe drought in the early 1970s led many Tuareg tribesmen, whose ancestors had roamed the desert for centuries, to settle in towns.

In the southwest, the plantations grow mostly peanuts and cotton.

For the trip of a lifetime, experienced travelers should consider taking the local bus from Niamey to Gao, Mali.

Yes, those are open sewers along the streets of Niamey.

The average life expectancy is only 42 years. Per capita income is around US$250 per year.