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Lyon as a travel destination in France is still relatively undiscovered—the stunning city center remains a hidden treasure. Although Lyon's vitality is perceptible in ancient streets with restored buildings, there are still many pockets where renewal has yet to penetrate. These backstreets and courtyards may seem daunting to visitors, but the history embodied in so many of them makes even the most crooked staircases fascinating.

Lyon is France's culinary capital, but the city is also known for its luminosity. Buildings and fountains are beautifully lit at night, giving Lyon a magical atmosphere. Cross the River Saone by one of its passerelle bridges on a summer evening at sunset, and you'll see the city of Lyon glow with a hazy, burnt-orange light.

Must See or Do

Sights—Vieux Lyon; the Roman amphitheaters, Theatres Romains de Fourviere and Amphitheatre des Trois Gauls; Lyon's famous City Murals; the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere and the view from La Tour de l'Observatoire.

Museums—Roman artifacts at the Musee de la Civilisation Gallo-Romaine Lyon-Fourviere; history of the area's silk-weaving at the Musee des Tissus et des Arts Decoratifs or the Maison des Canuts; the Centre d'Histoire de la Resistance et de la Deportation.

Memorable Meals—The area's most famous dining at Paul Bocuse; Lyonnaise cuisine and the views at Restaurant de Fourviere; coffee and chocolates at Rolancy.

Late Night—Dancing at La Chapelle; strolling through the Presqu'ile to see the city lights; enjoying drinks (and the city lights) onboard the deck of La Marquise.

Walks—Exploring the traboules (covered passageways) of Vieux Lyon or Croix Rousse; visiting the Jardin Saint Pierre.

Especially for Kids—Parc de la Tete d'Or, with its go-karts and water bumper cars; the displays at the Musee International de la Miniature.

Geography

Lyon is located in southeastern France, about a three-hour drive from the southern coast and less than 90 minutes from the borders with Switzerland and Italy, with the Alps to the east. It's a hilly city with two rivers: The Saone and the Rhone wind their way from north to south, joining just south of the city center. Between the two rivers lies the city center, which is almost surrounded by water and hence is known as the Presqu'ile, or peninsula.

At the northern end of the Presqu'ile, the broad shopping streets narrow into little passages that rise sharply uphill toward Lyon's northernmost district, the Croix Rousse. (The slopes rising up to Croix Rousse are known as the Croix Rousse Pentes.) To the west of the Presqu'ile is Lyon's old town, Vieux Lyon. This cluster of medieval streets and squares sits at the foot of Fourviere Hill, which is easily recognized by the white basilica and Lyon's equivalent of the Eiffel Tower, La Tour Metallique, perched side by side on the hilltop.

History

Around 500 BC, some of the Rhone Valley's earliest Celtic settlers made their home on a hill overlooking modern-day Lyon. But the city didn't take shape until about 43 BC, when the Romans turned the hilltop site into the city of Lugdunum. This settlement on Fourviere Hill developed into one of the most important centers of trade within the Roman Empire, but by the beginning of the fourth century AD, the inhabitants of Lugdunum had moved downhill to the banks of the Saone.

Between the fifth and 12th centuries, Lyon was a powerful Catholic bishopric. A succession of ambitious bishops and rulers brought prosperity to the city, ordering the construction of churches, hospitals and bridges, as well as contributing to a strong economy governed by the church. In 1240, locals set up the first town council, and less than 100 years later, Lyon had become part of the Kingdom of France.

Italian silk producers, fleeing civil war, brought the silk trade to Lyon in the early 1400s. Along with the silk trade, the intellectual and artistic movements of the Renaissance flourished in Lyon. By the turn of the 16th century, Lyon was one of the most prosperous towns in the French kingdom. In 1804, Joseph Marie Jacquard constructed his first mechanical silk-weaving looms, and the district of Croix Rousse was established as the new center of Lyon's silk-weaving trade. The industry continued to flourish through the mid-1800s. However, an outbreak of silkworm disease and increased demand for imported silk eventually led to the decline of this centuries-old manufacturing tradition.

Lyon was the capital of the French Resistance movement and played a central role in France's struggle against the Nazis during World War II. The postwar period was a time of massive expansion in the city, with the construction of many commercial centers, the extension of highways and the high-speed railway, the development of industrial plants and scientific institutes, and the construction of the metro system. In the late 1990s, the majority of Lyon's downtown area was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, thanks to the rare juxtaposition of several neighborhoods covering a 2,000-year period of history.

Over the past decade, the city has embarked on several urban redevelopment projects in former industrial or working-class neighborhoods such as Vaise and Gerland. Cleansed of industrial grime, the areas are now home to universities and corporate headquarters. The next neighborhood slated for redevelopment is the lower half of the downtown peninsula known as the Confluence. It is one of the most ambitious urban-development projects in the country.

Potpourri

French composer Maurice Jarre, who wrote the music for movies including Lawrence of Arabia, Ryan's Daughter, A Passage to India, Dead Poets' Society and Dr. Zhivago, was born in Lyon. So was his son, Jean-Michel Jarre.

In the late 15th century, Lyon was one of the most important printing centers in Europe. The first book printed in Lyon dates from 1473.

Beautiful Louise Labe (1520-1566), one of France's major female poets and famous for her bold love sonnets, was born in Lyon.

In 1784, opera singer Elizabeth Tible became the first female aeronaut when she sailed over Lyon in a hot-air balloon while singing.

Lyon hosts some of the quaintest associations and "academies" in France, many of them of the culinary variety. Very serious people of the Ordre de la Quenelle devote their lives to the study of the dumpling; the Ordre of the Raie knows everything about the skate (a fish); and the Academie du Lapin studies the rabbit in all details (before eating it). And several associations protect the bouchons of Lyon from the invasion of the Golden Arches.

The famous French writer and aviator, Antoine de Saint-Exupery (1900-1944), was born in Lyon. His endearing novella The Little Prince is still read by millions of children and adults all over the world.

France's high-speed passenger train, the TGV, which was also the first high-speed train in Europe, began operations from Lyon in 1981.

Location

Shore Excursions

Excursions are typically included in a river cruise. For first-time cruisers who are strapped for time but want to see as much as possible, hop on one of the double-decker city bus tours. Walking tours are another option. Prepare for a couple of hours ascending the narrow cobbled stone laneways of Old (Vieux) Lyon to see the historic silk weaving district and the other main sights, such as the Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourviere, Lyon Cathedral, Roman ruins and examples of Renaissance-era architecture.

Independent travelers should try the efficient public transit. Catch the funicular from Vieux Lyon Metro station up the steep hill to Fourviere. You get a fabulous view of the city from this perch, not to mention seeing other notable landmarks such as Lyon's own mini Eiffel Tower. Shoppers congregate at the car-free Rue St. Jean, and be sure to veer off for lunch in one of the many quaint brasseries.