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Once an important banana port on Costa Rica's Caribbean coast, Puerto Limon is better known as a good jumping-off point for visitors headed to Cahuita and Tortuguero national parks, or the Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge. The city is also sometimes called simply "Limon" by locals, although that is also the name of the province.

Puerto Limon, which is about 100 mi/160 km east of San Jose, is also a popular stop for cruise ships. Unfortunately, there really isn't much to see or do in Puerto Limon itself—unless you are there for the huge Columbus Day Carnival in October.

Major restoration projects continue in Puerto Limon to refurbish cultural buildings and improve infrastructure, including the Museo Regional de la Provincia de Puerto Limon, which used to reside in the colonial-era post office. In addition, US$3.5 billion in infrastructure investment is planned for the region including a new marine and cruise ship terminal, industrial park, and pier designed to handle cargo.

Must See or Do

Sights—Exploring the Mercado Central (Central Market); relaxing at Playa Bonita; a boat trip up the Tortuguero Canal; snorkeling at Cahuita; viewing wildlife at Tortuguero National Park.

Memorable Meals—Top-notch service and an international menu at Park Hotel Restaurant; coconut shrimp at El Sol del Caribe; authentic Caribbean cuisine at Maxi's Restaurant and Bar in Manzanillo; watching the waves crash at Sobre Las Olas at Playa Negra.

Late Night—Chilling with killer tropical cocktails at the bars in Cahuita, Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo; grooving to calypso during the city's annual Carnival.

Walks—Hiking the wilderness trails in Cahuita National Park; trekking in the Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge.

Especially for Kids—An evening turtle-watching excursion at Tortuguero National Park; viewing sloths up close at Aviarios del Caribe Sloth Refuge; butterflies, snakes and frogs at the Veragua Rainforest Research and Adventure Park.

Geography

Puerto Limon occupies a small bay surrounded on the north and west sides by low hills. It is open to the south, and for many miles/kilometers beyond is a marshy, mangrove-lined coastal plain. A small, craggy island—Isla Uvita—sits in the bay.

In 1991, the shore upon which Puerto Limon sits was heaved upward as much as 7 ft/2 m in places by an earthquake, and the seafront boulevard (which once overlooked a small beach) today overlooks a high-and-dry coral reef. The rocky, indentured shoreline north of town is backed by thickly forested hills.

Two beaches—Playa Bonita and Playa Portete—draw locals on weekends. Playa Bonita is by far the prettiest. Tucked between forested headlands, it has a coral reef offshore, and the tubular waves that wash ashore draw surfers.

History

Limon Bay has a unique spot in Costa Rica's history. It was there that Christopher Columbus first stepped ashore on the region's Caribbean shores in 1502 during his fourth and last voyage to the New World. The Genoese explorer anchored off Isla Uvita and called the region La Huerta (The Garden). Spanish conquistadores soon decimated the local population (many native people were enslaved to work in gold mines elsewhere in Central America), although that part of the coast was never really settled to any degree.

Pirates were a constant scourge along the coast. Many operated as loggers and smugglers—they also introduced the first African slaves to the region—and allied with coastal natives against the Spanish. Cacao was introduced in the 17th century, and for the next two centuries was the region's major export.

In the latter part of the 19th century, Jamaican laborers were imported to work alongside Chinese indentured laborers building the Atlantic Railroad (completed in 1880), linking the then-minor port town of Puerto Limon to San Jose. Many stayed to infuse the coast with distinctive Caribbean island cultural traits. The railroad's developer, Minor Keith, negotiated a huge land grant as part of the railroad deal and introduced bananas to the Caribbean lowlands. The industry thrived until disease struck in the 1930s.

In 1979, the cacao industry was effectively destroyed by Monilia fungus. The desultory port town limped along and was dealt another blow in 1991 when a severe earthquake destroyed many buildings, including the city's major hotel. Since then, a remarkable recovery and development has taken place, assisted by a regional tourism boom and plans to develop a cruise terminal, industrial park and marina pier.

Planning

Potpourri

Manatees inhabit the waters of wetland systems along the shore. These marine mammals spend most of their time submerged and thrive on munching water hyacinths. To spot them, look for bubbles erupting at the surface—the result of flatulence.

Sloths can often be seen in the trees around Puerto Limon and even crawling along telegraph wires. Many of the sloths at the Aviarios del Caribe Sloth Refuge center have been electrocuted while crawling along the wires.

Many costenos (coast-dwellers) speak a lilting patois—part English, part Spanish, part Creole—that can dumbfound visitors.

Iguanas are called "tree chickens" by campesinos (farmers), who eat them. Other Costa Ricans consider the giant lizards to be a "poor-man's food."

Because hard currency was scarce in colonial times, cacao beans were sometimes used as currency.

Since the Caribbean coast is relatively straight, there are no marinas on that side of Costa Rica because there are no bays or harbors for shelter.

Banana and pineapple plantations predominate in the area in and around Limon Province. Banana plantations enfold the maturing stalks of bananas in blue plastic bags to ensure that they arrive in supermarkets in pristine condition. When driving past a banana plantation at certain times of the season, all the banana trees appear to have giant blue blossoms hanging from them.

The idea to export bananas from Central America originated when U.S. railroad entrepreneur Henry Meiggs traveled to Costa Rica to build a route from San Jose to Limon. Upon Meiggs' death, his nephew Minor Keith took over and started planting bananas to feed the workers. When the railroad was finished, he began exporting the crop, which later gave birth to the United Fruit Co.

Around 80% of all goods imported and exported in Costa Rica pass through Moin port.

Location

Cruise ships stopping on the Caribbean coast usually dock at Puerto Limon, which is the major port city and transportation hub of Costa Rica's east coast. The cruise terminal opens directly onto the main square in town—Parque Vargas. The terminal has its own crafts market with more than 100 artists, telephones, a pharmacy, and salons offering manicures, pedicures and massages when a cruise ship is in port. The main open-air market used by locals is just a two-block walk from the terminal.

Taxis are available both inside and outside the terminal gates, though it's best to take the ones inside as they have been approved by the port authority. Wi-Fi is available at the terminal. http://www.japdeva.go.cr.

Many cargo ships (including those that carry paying passengers) sometimes bypass the city in favor of Moin, a dock about 4 mi/6 km northwest of Puerto Limon. Moin is little more than a pier where passengers disembark for tours and shore excursions, although private boats depart from there to Tortuguero. (The pier also serves the nearby banana plantations and oil refinery.) Neither Puerto Limon nor Moin has a tourist information booth; Moin is very close to Playa Bonita.

Shore Excursions

Cruise ship passengers can choose from at least two dozen or so exciting shore excursions. The most popular offerings include nature excursions to Tortuguero National Park, Cahuita National Park, tours of the Costa Flores horticultural farm, a ride on the Rain Forest Aerial Tram, a Limon city tour and white-water rafting on the Reventazon River.

Most cruise passengers take ship-sponsored shore excursions because local transportation is limited. The bus system is not dependable, and rental cars aren't readily available. But it is possible to fashion your own itinerary to nearby parks and preserves. The best way (especially if you're a serious birder or hiker) is to make arrangements in advance with one of Costa Rica's nature-tour companies. Most will arrange for a guide to meet you at the dock.

Costa Rica Expeditions or Expediciones Tropicales are recommended. With some planning, it's possible to see gorgeous beaches, jungles, mountains, rivers and volcanoes all in the same day. Local tour operators offering a variety of activities also set up stands inside the terminal gates.

Another option is to take one of the authorized taxis that depart from inside the terminal gates. (If you decide to take a taxi outside the gates, look for red taxis with a yellow triangle on the side doors.) For short trips, it is best to ask drivers to use the meter. Fares for longer trips can sometimes be negotiated. Many drivers speak some English. Tipping is not expected, but you might add a little extra for good service.

Several short trips are possible from Puerto Limon and Moin. Just north of the ports are the Tortuguero canals. A boat is the best way to explore this swampy terrain, and most depart from the Moin pier. Cahuita National Park, about an hour's drive south of Puerto Limon, can also be visited easily by taxi from either port. The park contains the only mature coral reef on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, and the adjacent village of Cahuita is filled with colorful Caribbean charm, as well as small cafes, excellent restaurants and good shopping. A taxi from the port to the park or village should cost about 24,000 CRC each way.

Just north of Cahuita (about a 18,700 CRC taxi ride each way from the port) is Aviarios del Caribe Sloth Refuge, offering opportunities to see sloths and other creatures, including a bird-filled lagoon.

Guided tours—and their prices—vary from cruise line to cruise line. Book early because some fill up fast. Some include lunch and drinks, and the number of stops varies, so the final price may vary significantly. Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information.