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The "discreet charm" of bourgeois yet vibrant Geneva may be subtle, but it grows rapidly on visitors and residents alike. From the Mont Blanc bridge in the evening, when the skyline of gracious, orderly stone buildings is reflected on the lake, Geneva's charm is visible to all. Without a doubt, this is a prosperous and attractive city.

As the capital of French-speaking Switzerland (Suisse romande), Geneva has a gorgeous setting with a lake, river and mountains. This and the fact that it occupies a central location within Europe make it a magnet for tourists and, not surprisingly, one of Switzerland's top destinations. Relatively small and manageable, Geneva is easy to explore on foot, and the authorities work hard to keep car traffic at a minimum.

Geneva is also physically diverse, with a charming medieval Old Town, a busy commercial district and handsome architecture, from elegant stone and wrought-iron facades to the laid-back, village vibe of the Carouge suburb. Seen from the train station, Geneva's graceful skyline is capped by the Alps, with the cathedral's spires in the middle ground and the water jet gushing up from the lake in the foreground.

The city's prosperity is evident everywhere, from luxury hotels, upscale restaurants, and Mercedes and Jaguars on the streets to opulent villas dotting the Geneva lakefront. Geneva has a long tradition of hosting royalty and other well-heeled people, along with an established reputation for welcoming refugees.

Switzerland's second-largest city after Zurich, Geneva boasts an average per capita income of more than 51,000 CHF, one of the highest in Europe. Banks, insurance firms and jewelers are ubiquitous, but Geneva is also proud of its intellectual roots: In the 16th century, the city was the cradle of Calvinism, and it is now a major science center and cultural capital.

Since the Red Cross (formally, the International Committee of the Red Cross) was founded there in 1863, Geneva has nurtured a long-standing humanitarian and internationalist tradition, and now hosts more than 125 multinational companies, about 30 international organizations (including the principal United Nations agencies), about 300 nongovernmental organizations and some 200 diplomatic missions. Geneva also often ranks among the world's most livable cities.

Must See or Do

Sights—The breathtaking view of the lakefront from the Mont Blanc bridge; the Jet d'Eau, one of the tallest fountains in the world; Cathedrale St. Pierre; the Reformation Wall in the Parc des Bastions; the Plainpalais flea market on Wednesday and Saturday; the ancient heart of the city, Place du Bourg-de-Four.

Museums—The Musee d'Art et d'Histoire; tribal-art displays at the Musee Barbier-Mueller; the history of the domestic interior at Maison Tavel; the stunning International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum; exquisite timepieces at the Patek Philippe Museum.

Memorable Meals—The elegant setting, stunning lake view and refined Chinese cuisine at Tse-Fung; scrumptious fondue in the cozy Les Armures restaurant; bistro classics at Bistrot du Boef Rouge; Michelin-starred food at the Auberge Du Lion d'Or; superb French cuisine at Le Chat Botte.

Late Night—Listening to jazz at Chat Noir; sipping wine in Au Coin du Bar; chilling with the locals at La Clemence; sipping a homebrew at Les Brasseurs; dancing until the early hours at Le Baroque.

Walks—A stroll along the magnificent lakefront promenade, especially in the evening; enjoying the vibrant colors of Jardin Anglais; the picturesque cobblestoned streets of the Vieux Ville (Old Town); the charming Italian suburb of Carouge; window-shopping on the Rue du Rhone.

Especially for Kids—Visiting the animals in the Conservatoire et Jardin Botaniques; enjoying the dinosaurs at the Musee d'Histoire Naturelle; swimming and testing the giant toboggan at Geneve-Plage; taking a leisurely cruise around the inner harbor; sampling housemade chocolate at the Rohr chocolate shop.

Geography

Geneva is ringed by mountains—the Alps to the east, the Jura to the north and west—and faces Lac Leman (Lake Geneva). The heart of the city lies where the lake and the Rhone River converge, dividing Geneva into the right bank (where the train station and the bustling Paquis district are located) and the left bank (of greatest historical interest and beauty).

The Arve River also runs through the city. The Old Town sits atop a small hill on the left bank of the Rhone, beyond which the city sprawls out to the south to Plainpalais, Carouge and beyond. Clustered north of the right bank, overlooking the lake and heading toward the airport, are the offices of the United Nations and other international organizations.

History

The Lake Geneva region was inhabited as early as 3000 BC by successive waves of Celts (including the Helvetii tribe), Germans and Franks. Around 500 BC, a Celtic tribe settled on the hill where Geneva's Old Town is now located.

The Romans arrived in the second century BC (Julius Caesar wrote the first known historical reference to Geneva in 52 BC) and used the city as an important base for several hundred years. Geneva was an important seat of power for the Merovingian, Carlovingian, German and Burgundian empires from the sixth to 11th centuries.

Geneva's status rose during the Middle Ages, thanks to its trade fairs, but the city had to fight off continual invasions by the House of Savoy between the 12th and 17th centuries. The last Savoyard invasion ended in defeat on 11 December 1602 when, according to legend, the Genevans staved them off by throwing cauldrons of boiling soup onto the assailants, who were trying to scale the city walls. (This night of the Escalade, or scaling, is now commemorated yearly.)

Under religious reformer John Calvin, the city was established as the Republic of Geneva in 1536 and functioned as an important center for the Reformation. It continued to flourish into the 18th century, when it hosted such luminaries as Jean-Jacques Rousseau (a Geneva native) and Voltaire (who settled just across the border with France).

Following the French Revolution of 1792, Napoleon annexed the Republic. Geneva regained its independence in 1813 and joined the Swiss Confederation in 1815.

A beacon of democracy, Geneva granted its citizens universal suffrage in 1847 with a notable exception—Swiss women did not have full, federal voting rights until 1971, although they were able to vote in cantonal elections after 1960.

With the founding of the Red Cross in 1863 and the signing of the first Geneva Convention in 1864, Geneva established its reputation as a seat for international organizations. The League of Nations was founded there in 1919, and Geneva became the European headquarters of the United Nations in 1946.

Potpourri

The philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau was born in Geneva. His romantic letter Julie, or the New Heloise, a best-seller, led to the rise of tourism in the region.

Famous people who lived on the banks of Lake Geneva region include Lord Byron, Piotr Tchaikovsky, Rainer Maria Rilke, the Empress Elisabeth ("Sisi") of Austria and Charlie Chaplin.

Protestant reformer Jean Calvin is responsible for the rise of the Swiss luxury-watch industry. Since the austere religious leader forbade followers to wear jewelry, the jewelers and goldsmiths of Geneva concentrated on watches. The knowledge came from French Huguenot refugees.

Geneva houses the world's largest particle-physics laboratory, CERN (Conseil Europeen pour la Recherche Nucleaire). It was there in 1989 that physicist Tim Berners-Lee invented the World Wide Web (not to be confused with the internet).

Almost half of Geneva's residents are foreigners, coming from more than 180 nations. Many work at one of the 250 international organizations based in Geneva, including the International Red Cross, the European branch of the United Nations and the World Health Organization.

The first—and only—Swiss astronaut in the world hails from nearby Vevey. Claude Nicollier, who studied at the University of Geneva and is now retired from space walking, logged more than 1,000 hours in space.

Lake Geneva claims the distinction of being the largest lake in Switzerland and one of the largest in Europe.