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On a map, The Gambia resembles a bent toothpick piercing the coast of Senegal. A tiny sliver of a country in West Africa, it is little wider than the banks of the River Gambia. Enough of the country, however, lies on the coast where clusters of oceanside resorts cater to European and Canadian tourists on low-budget package vacations.

For travelers from the U.S., The Gambia is probably better known for one of its interior villages: Juffure, which was celebrated by author Alex Haley in his book Roots as the home of his ancestor Kunte Kinte.

The Gambia was also known, until 1994, as Africa's longest-running democracy. A small group of army lieutenants staged a coup in that year, and the ensuing uncertainty following the uprising led to a decline in tourism, adding further stress to an already fragile economy.

With the elections of 2001 and 2006, The Gambia regained its status as a democracy, but it is a tenuous title, as poverty continues to rise, freedom of the press is occasionally threatened, and basic infrastructure such as road conditions and electricity slides backward rather than forward.

Geography

History

Before being colonized in 1588 (it was Britain's first overseas colony), the area that is now The Gambia was part of three West African empires: Ghana, Mali and Songhay. When Britain participated in the slave trade, The Gambia was a gathering and embarkation point for slaves. But when Britain abolished slavery within its empire, The Gambia became a refuge for escapees from French and Portuguese colonies where the trade still flourished.

For years, the country languished as a relatively forgotten and undeveloped part of the British empire. It achieved independence in 1965. Following a coup attempt in The Gambia in 1981, the country made an administrative arrangement with surrounding Senegal called the "Senegambia Confederation," combining their military and security forces. However, the arrangement came to an end in 1989 because of disagreements over economic policy. In 1994, five army lieutenants led a successful coup. The officers, who called their action "a coup with a difference," pledged to return the country to democracy as soon as they had eliminated corruption. They generously gave themselves four years to accomplish their mission, but pressure from European countries shortened this to two.

On the surface at least, the coup leaders accomplished their goal: Elections were held in September 1996. Not surprisingly, however, the new civilian president wais Yahya Jammeh, the man who led the coup. By most accounts, the elections were wrought with fraud and coercive voting measures. Jammeh and his officers have reportedly granted themselves extravagant clothing allowances and expensive cars. Jammeh has also spent large sums on public works projects: renovating the airport and building a hospital, a TV station, new schools and—lest anyone forget their benevolent despot—an enormous monument to his revolution in downtown Banjul featuring Yahya carrying a machine gun, a child, and a peace sign. If you're curious what the leader looks like, just glance around: Jammeh's smiling face graces thousands of signs, billboards, and banners throughout The Gambia. In October 2001, Jammeh defeated human-rights lawyer Oussainou Darboe and won a second five-year term.

Snapshot

The country's main attractions are game fishing, excellent (though sometimes tar-spotted) beaches, historical sites, Juffure (U.S. author Alex Haley's ancestral village), bird-watching, tribal villages and friendly people.

The Gambia is fairly low on the list of African tourist destinations. It's mostly visited by Europeans escaping winter on inexpensive package tours.

Potpourri

Many of The Gambia's new buildings and monuments were designed by modernist Senegalese architect Pierre Atepa Goudiaby. Goudiaby's design for the country's international airport terminal has a futuristic exterior that contrasts with the huge Greek columns in the building's interior.

The five army officers who led the country's 1994 coup were all between the ages of 25 and 30. Ousted President Sir Dawda Jawara was age 70 at the time.

Look for the gigantic termite hills around the village of Soma, in the center of the country. But choose the timing of your visit carefully. After the first rains of the rainy season, millions of termites leave their mud fortresses and swarm the town.

The Muslim salutation "Salam malekum" (peace be with you) is commonly used throughout The Gambia by both Muslims and non-Muslims. The appropriate response is Malekum salam.

Some 250 species of birds breed in the country, and more than 450 have been recorded.

Astou Njie, who was crowned Miss Gambia in 2000, is using her fame to raise AIDS awareness. In 2001, she founded an organization in The Gambia that provides education and support to children living with the HIV virus and AIDS.

Be sure to visit the Banjul cemetery. One headstone reads, "He was a good man here, but let's hope he's a better man there." The cemetery is on a beautiful stretch of beach just out of town, and tidal surges have occasionally swept long-buried bodies into the sea.

The Gambia's beach resorts are also famous (or infamous) as destinations for sex tourists, usually older European women looking for a fling with young, muscle-bound Gambian men, who are known as "bumsters." Bumsters are notorious for pestering foreigners on The Gambia's beaches, and recent attempts by hotel security to keep them away have only been partly successful.