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Eswatini, Africa, formerly known as Swaziland, is nestled between the nations of South Africa and Mozambique. It is the Southern Hemisphere's smallest country and home to just more than 1.4 million people. With an area of about 6,500 sq mi/17,000 sq km, on a map, Eswatini appears as only a tiny drop in the expanse of southern Africa.

However, to overlook this small, landlocked little nation would be to miss experiencing a rich traditional culture, abundant exotic wildlife, and wonderfully varied and picturesque terrains. Travel in Eswatini is relatively simple—you can tour the whole country in one day—and Eswatini is easily accessible from neighboring South Africa.

After a day spent watching zebras and wildebeests in a Eswatini game reserve, travelers can sip cappuccino in a Western-style shopping mall or stroll among locals in one of the excellent craft markets. Vibrant traditional culture is a highlight too—as one of the few remaining monarchies in Africa, heritage is deeply engrained in all aspects of Swazi life and is reflected in traditional dress, festivals and ceremonies.

This personable, relaxed country is worth a visit and can be easily combined with numerous other attractions in the region, such as Kruger National Park in South Africa or the southern beaches of Mozambique.

Geography

History

The area that is now called Eswatini was first settled by the Dlamini clan in the late 16th century. They were followed by several other independent chiefdoms who sought good pastures for raising their cattle. In the early 1800s, the area was named Swaziland after the king at the time, Mswati II. The British took control of the land in 1903 after the second Boer War and ruled until independence in 1968 (Swaziland was the last British protectorate in Africa), after which a short-lived parliamentary system was put in place. But in 1973, King Sobhuza II set aside the constitution, assumed full power and prohibited all political activities.

This decree lasted until Sobhuza II's death in 1982—he had ruled Swaziland for 83 years, making him the longest ruling monarch in history. Today's King Mswati III was crowned as a 14-year-old in 1986 and is Africa's last absolute monarch. But the power of the king's role has been slightly reduced after a handful of political reforms. The government remains headed by the king, but he is assisted by a prime minister, and there are two legislative houses: the Senate and the House of Assembly. However, only about a third of the representatives are elected by the public, and political parties are still illegal, although several manage to keep up a modest profile.

Although there are persistent rumblings for more democracy, leaders generally hold fast to tradition and Swazis are unlikely to dispense with their king anytime soon. More probable is a gradual metamorphosis into a constitutional monarchy, though even that is unlikely to happen in the near future.

In April 2018, King Mswati III renamed The Kingdom of Swaziland to The Kingdom of Eswatini, which means "land of the Swazis." The name change has met with some resistance, and in many parts of the world the country is still known as Swaziland.

Snapshot

Eswatini's main attractions are game reserves, hiking, beautiful mountain scenery, traditional crafts, rock paintings (though some are difficult to find), waterfalls and horseback riding.

Eswatini is usually visited in conjunction with a trip to South Africa or Mozambique, although it can easily stand on its own as a destination. The country will appeal to adventurous travelers interested in uncrowded game reserves and vibrant traditional cultures.

Potpourri

In Eswatini, wealth is determined by the number of cattle a person controls. For marriage, a man must pay lobola (bride price—usually consisting of a certain number of cattle) to the father of the bride.

Polygamy is still common in Eswatini. In fact, King Mswati III has 15 wives and 27 children to date. His late father King Sobhuza II, who died in 1982, had more than 70 wives and fathered 210 children between 1920 and 1970.

Eswatini has 13 border posts—11 with South Africa and two with Mozambique.

Thanks to its sugar plantations, much of Eswatini's revenue comes from Coca-Cola, which has a large plant there.

The umhlanga (reed dance), when hundreds of Swazi girls dance before the king at his royal compound at Lobamba, takes place in late August or early September. The reeds are used to build a wind break around the Queen Mother's residence. The king sometimes chooses a new bride during this festival.

By 2011, Eswatini's HIV rate was the highest in the world, with more than 30% of the population infected. The figure remains high, but a massive campaign promoting safe sex, testing and treatment has slashed the rate of new infections.

With more than 500 species of birds recorded, Eswatini is a rewarding destination for birders.