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Fierce local pride is a Charleston institution. It has helped sustain the city for more than 300 tumultuous years—from colonial times, through the Revolutionary and Civil wars, to the present. Pride has also sustained hundreds of historic Charleston buildings—a big reason that travelers visit today. Be sure to take a stroll down East Bay Street (especially the section known as Rainbow Row) to admire the pastel houses bedecked with their breeze-cooled piazzas.
Spend some time lolling in the near-tropical warmth of Charleston's beaches, admiring the stoic architecture of The Citadel (the state's military college) or exploring the Charleston historic district, and you'll likely find this a very pleasing corner of the cosmos.
Sights—The woodwork at the Heyward-Washington House; the work yard at the Aiken-Rhett House; the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon; the iconic Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge.
Museums—Sterling silver and sweetgrass baskets at the Charleston Museum; the miniature collection and gift shop at the Gibbes Museum of Art; the floating, circular staircase at the Nathaniel Russell House.
Memorable Meals—Fried chicken, sweet tea and Coca-Cola cake at Jestine's Kitchen; anything off the daily changing menu at Husk; anything from the locally sourced daily menu at FIG.
Late Night—Jazz at Charleston Grill at the Charleston Place Hotel; late-night Irish coffee and pie at Kaminsky's Dessert Cafe; relaxing with a Hemingway Daiquiri at Proof; a midnight snack at 39 Rue de Jean.
Walks—A stroll along Rainbow Row, the line of colorful houses on East Bay Street; the gardens at Middleton Place; a walk along the shoreline at Folly Beach; breathtaking views of the harbor from the promenade along Waterfront Park, plus swings for the kids.
Especially for Kids—Native marine-life displays at the South Carolina Aquarium; swamp life at the Magnolia Plantation; the scavenger-hunt map available at the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon; interactive exhibits at the Children's Museum of the Lowcountry.
Charleston is on a peninsula bordered by two rivers, the Ashley and the Cooper, which provide a natural, watery barrier that has pushed growth and development toward the north. For instance, King Street, the city's main shopping strip, is now bustling not only on its lower end (long famous for high-quality antiques) but also on its upper end (known for bars, restaurants and shopping that also appeal to the younger set).
The city's original settlers laid out the streets in a checkerboard plan, beginning with the intersection of King and Broad streets, which remains the premier address of old Charleston law and real estate firms. The corner of Broad and Meeting is aptly called the "Four Corners of Law" because of the four types of law represented on each corner: the U.S. Post Office (U.S. law), City Hall (municipal law), South Carolina State Courthouse (state law) and St. Michael's church (God's law).
South of Broad (nicknamed SOB), the residential neighborhood encircled by the harbor, is still the most expensive spot to call home (a few bed-and-breakfasts allow you to do this, if only for a short time). You'll probably hear locals refer to the area around and in between North and South Market streets as "the Market," a popular spot that includes many eateries, touristy shops and the historic covered market, where vendors sell various goods.
Areas such as East Cooper and West Ashley carry the implicit phrase "of the" (as in East of the Cooper), which explains their locations with respect to the city's two rivers and provides visitors with a useful trick to get their bearings.
Various islands dot Charleston's harbor and coast, such as Isle of Palms, Sullivan's Island, James Island and Kiawah Island, some of which have historic sites, beaches or other attractions.
In 1670, a group of English colonists traveled up the Ashley River and settled Charles Towne, named in honor of King Charles II of England. Ten years later, the colony relocated across the river to a more desirable site—the peninsula. By 1690, the city had become the fifth-largest in North America—a port town with busy wharves and a harbor full of sailing ships. But it was the area's tremendously successful rice-cultivation industry, made possible by the knowledge of enslaved people from the rice-growing regions of Sierra Leone, that made it rich. The Lowcountry rice plantations proved so profitable that their owners filled the city and countryside with elegant mansions.
At the outbreak of the Revolutionary War in 1776, Col. William Moultrie's fort on Sullivan's Island held against the firing of British forces, giving the new nation one of its first victories. After the war, Charles Towne became the city of Charleston, and its native sons played a key role in the formation of the new national government.
The city prospered and grew tremendously in the antebellum period. Charleston's rich plantation economy depended on an enslaved labor force. Africans and African Americans not only worked on the plantations, but also served as domestic servants and craftspeople in the city. The antebellum structures that remain today were built by slaves.
Tensions over states' rights and slavery led the state of South Carolina to secede from the U.S. in December 1860. Charlestonians cheered from the rooftops as the first shots of the Civil War were fired at Fort Sumter in Charleston Harbor. Though the Confederates won that battle, the ensuing siege nearly destroyed Charleston. The war brought an end to slavery and forever changed the city's way of life. By the early 1900s, phosphate mining and a navy yard were bringing jobs and new residents to Charleston.
The city's wealth of architectural gems survives in no small part because of local citizens who, during the 1920s and '30s, formed the country's first historic district with regulatory control, thus preserving the structures. In the 1970s, the abundance of historic buildings and rich legacy were finally tapped by the Charleston Chamber of Commerce. Travelers still visit Charleston for its architecture, southern charm and appealing seaside climate.
According to Charleston legend, an African American butler by the name of William Deas created the world-renowned she-crab soup at the John Rutledge Inn.
Charleston hasn't only been prone to the ravages of civil war and hurricanes. On 31 August 1886, a 7.6-magnitude earthquake rocked the city, killing 110 people and causing major damage to the city's buildings.
During the colonial era, Charleston was enclosed by a fortification wall with defensive bastions to protect it from invasion by pirates and enemies of the English empire. The wall was later removed. But, wall or no wall, Charleston shares its history with some of the most infamous pirates of all time, including Irish-born Anne Bonney, Edward Teach (known as Blackbeard) and "gentleman" pirate Stede Bonnet.
The Charleston, a famous 1920s-era dance, started in Charleston and was patterned after Gullah dance steps.
Comedian Stephen Colbert of The Colbert Report grew up in Charleston and attended Porter-Gaud, a prestigious local prep school.
The Charleston area is home to a large number of best-selling novelists, including Pat Conroy, Sue Monk Kidd, Dorothea Benton Frank, Mary Alice Monroe and fantasy author Robert Jordan.
Sullivan's Island, home of Fort Moultrie, which sits at the mouth of Charleston Harbor and was the site of significant action during the Revolutionary War, has been featured in works by both contemporary novelist Pat Conroy and dark poet Edgar Allan Poe. Poe's story The Gold Bug was set there.
Charleston is also known as the "Holy City" because of the prevalence of church steeples on the city skyline. There are more than 400 houses of worship throughout the city. The oldest church, St. Michael's, dates back to 1761.
Cruise ships dock at Charleston's Union Pier Passenger Terminal, located by the harbor at Market Street and near the center of the city's Historic District. Representatives from the convention and visitors bureau staff the terminal during port-of-call arrivals, offering information and visitors guides.
Transportation services are easily accessible, with taxis lined up on nearby Concord Street. Short-term parking is available for the general public. Reservations are not required for long-term parking, but it's only available for cruise line passengers. A shuttle service operates between the terminal and parking lots. Many restaurants are located within walking distance of the terminal. Phone 843-577-8189. http://www.port-of-charleston.com/locations/cruise-terminal.
Situated in the middle of the state's western region, Charleston is the state capital and West Virginia's largest city. Be sure to visit the Cass Gilbert-designed state Capitol with its six types of marble and striking gold-colored dome. The area around the Capitol has many other worthwhile sights: the Governor's Mansion, the Booker T. Washington Memorial and the West Virginia State Museum (aka the Cultural Center), which has exhibits depicting state history.
The Sunrise Museum is a combination art and science museum housed in two large mansions. Stern-wheeler rides on the river are another possibility. Schedule at least a full day to see Charleston.
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