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When scuba divers dream, they dream of Bonaire—all the waters surrounding the island form a marine park, making it one of the finest dive spots on the planet. It has crystal clear water and colorful reefs that in many places are easily accessed right from the shore. Underwater visibility can reach 150 ft/45 m.

Bonaire's land-based attractions can't match its marine wonders (the nightlife is very, very low-key), but they can make for a day or two of interesting sightseeing—flamingos and wild donkeys give the island a surreal quality. Washington Slagbaai National Park, in particular, is an excellent place to admire a dry, desertlike landscape contrasted by rolling hills and cactus jungles.

Geography

Bonaire lies 50 mi/80 km north of Venezuela. Shaped like a boomerang with the islet of Klein Bonaire nestled in its curve, the island is 24 mi/38 km long by 7 mi/11 km at its widest, 116 sq mi/300 sq km in all.

With dry, desertlike conditions and little rainfall, it's characterized by cacti and trees that have adapted to the arid climate. Because prevailing winds blow from the east, the entire west side of Bonaire is protected from the winds (this protection keeps the water calm, too). The north end of the island has numerous hills, the highest of which is Mount Brandaris at 723 ft/241 m. The south end is flat and merges gently with the sea.

History

Bonaire's residents are a blend of European, African and Amerindian ancestry—a reflection of the island's history. Settled by the Caiquetios, a branch of the Arawak tribe, Bonaire was claimed by Spain after explorers Alonso de Ojeda and Amerigo Vespucci came upon it in 1499.

The Spanish did little to develop the island. Instead, they transported the natives to Hispaniola to work their sugarcane fields. With nobody around to take care of the farm animals, they roamed wild, which is still the case with goats today. In the 1600s, the island became one of several Caribbean islands controlled by the Dutch.

Bonaire served mostly as a support island for its busy neighbor, Curacao, the center for Dutch trade in the region. Cattle ranching and salt harvesting became the economic mainstays on Bonaire. Slaves were used to collect the salt, an important product for preserving meat before refrigeration. The only town was Rincon, which meant a seven-hour walk for the slaves to reach the salt pans. In 1850, building slave huts next to the ponds solved that problem. Eventually, the slaves built their own village near the salt pans and named it Mundu Nobu, meaning "new world."

Four obelisks were erected around the ponds, and each was painted a color of the Dutch flag (white, red and blue) plus orange to show loyalty to the House of Orange. When ships were due in to pick up the salt, a flag was put on top of an obelisk. The flag identified which salt pan was ready for shipping, so the crew knew where to land. At least one obelisk is still visible at the site.

When the slaves were emancipated in 1863, the salt business ended on Bonaire. In the late 1800s, the island sank into economic decline, a fate suffered by many other Caribbean islands. Only with the growth of tourism in the latter half of the 20th century did Bonaire begin to see better days. In 1951, the first hotel opened on the island, and tourism has been the dominant industry ever since. The lesser quantities of salt produced today are exported to the U.S. and other foreign countries.

Now self-governing in local matters, Bonaire remains part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, which tends to the island's international affairs. A governor, appointed by the queen, represents the Netherlands on the islands. The island sends a representative to the Dutch Parliament and retains close economic ties.

Snapshot

Bonaire's foremost attractions include diving, snorkeling, windsurfing, relaxation, Washington Slagbaai National Park, beaches (although not for walking—they're small), mountain biking, two casinos, kayaking, bird-watching (especially flamingos) and deep-sea fishing.

Travelers who love to snorkel and scuba dive will be in heaven in Bonaire. Those who don't, and who want more from their vacation than quiet relaxation, will probably find themselves getting restless after three or four days.

Potpourri

A 2007 census taken by the Reef Environmental Education Foundation (REEF) identified nearly 365 species of fish in Bonaire's waters, more than the number found off any other Caribbean island. There are also 200 species of birds on the island.

The island license plate says "Diver's Paradise."

In Papiamento, a language unique to Bonaire and the surrounding islands, bon dia (bun DEE-uh) means "good morning" and bon bini means "welcome." Other words and phrases that will be helpful: kon ta bai (hello), bon tardi (good afternoon), bon nochi (good evening), si (yes), danki (thank you) and ayo (good-bye). A phrasebook for Papiamentu, which provides information on island road signs, words for foods and sentences that are commonly exchanged as part of day-to-day life, can be purchased from a number of locations on the island, including the Tourism Corporation Bonaire office.

At times, flamingos outnumber the human residents of Bonaire. As many as 15,000 of the birds are counted each year.

Bonaire has guarded its treasures carefully: It established the first national park in the Caribbean in 1969 and the first marine park 10 years later.

Wild donkeys accounted for hundreds of car-donkey accidents in past years. So to counter this problem, donkeys have been rounded up for the safety of both drivers and donkeys, and Donkey Sanctuary Bonaire opened a Donkey Paradise Safari Park, offering visitors a drive-through safarilike experience. More than 300 donkeys reside at the sanctuary, with at least one that is older than 30.

Location

Cruise ships from all over the world stop in Bonaire. Most stay for one day and move on. Both Town Pier (North Pier) and Customs Pier (South Pier) are in the capital of Kralendijk, within walking distance of shops, restaurants and Wilhelmina Square, where vendors sell handmade jewelry, original art, native food and other unique items.

When ships are in port, traffic is restricted in town and locals provide dance shows, musical concerts and other entertainment in the Square and along the main roads. A short walk from Kralendijk's Waterfront Promenade, visitors find a casino, dive shops and tour operators. Taxis stand by to take passengers to beaches and resorts offering day passes; most drivers also offer island-wide tours and visits to the national park.

The tourism office keeps an up-to-date cruise ship schedule on its website.

Shore Excursions

Most cruise ships stay in port only a few hours, and many passengers opt to spend their time strolling the waterfront, stopping for a snack or drink in one of the restaurants, or browsing through the shops at Harborside Mall. Those who seek more excitement may sign up for sightseeing by boat or on horseback, take a snorkeling or diving excursion, kayak through the mangroves or arrange for a tour of Washington Slagbaai National Park.

Rental cars are available in town for self-guided adventures, but be aware that most companies prohibit taking vehicles off-road or into the national park.