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Osaka, Japan, and the surrounding Kansai region are the country's spiritual heartland. The site of one of the earliest capitals of the country, Osaka remains a vital center for trade and entrepreneurial culture. Tokyo may have political and financial clout and Kyoto may be the repository of ancient tradition, but Osaka is the nation's honest heartbeat.

In the mid-1990s, Osaka city officials embarked upon a long-term commitment to overhaul the city's grimy and nondescript image. The skyline has since risen dramatically, and so has its profile as an international city. Stylish high-rise apartment and office buildings are no longer an oddity (particularly in Umeda, Osaka's north-central district). The architectural renaissance is bolstering Osaka's role as one of the world's most energetic cities. Indeed, it has a vibrancy that is seldom matched elsewhere in Japan.

The historic areas—the castle and the shrines—are modern reconstructions, but that cannot negate Osaka's long contribution to Japanese arts and culture. The tea ceremony, flower arrangement (ikebana) and the performing arts of Bunraku, Kabuki and Noh all have their roots in the city. Osaka is known for its writers, artists, musicians and comedians.

And so Osaka's true character lies in its people. In Japan, Osakans have a reputation for being straightforward and even brash. They're hardworking but just as intent on having fun, and it is among them that the true appeal of this fascinating city can be found.

Must See or Do

Sights—Osaka Castle; Sumiyoshi Taisha Jinja Shrine; Shitennoji Temple and the monthly flea market there; Kuromon Market; Shinsaibashi-suji shoutengai (shopping street); Abeno Harukas, Japan's tallest skyscraper.

Museums—Museum of Oriental Ceramics; Fujita Museum of Art; Osaka Museum of Housing and Living; Osaka International Peace Center.

Memorable Meals—Okonomiyaki (a cabbage-and-egg pancake) at Boteyju; ethnic Thai food at Krungtep; Korean food in the Tsuruhashi Korean Market area; Basilico for pizza; sushi or tempura at Sharaku or Kaiba; the food halls in department-store basements for the luscious samples.

Late Night—sunset at the Floating Garden Observatory; a walk around the Dotombori area; clubhopping in America Mura; a late-night beer at HUB, The British Pub.

Walks—A stroll through Osaka Castle Park, especially in March or April for the cherry blossoms; a hike through Osaka Amenity Park and the Okawa River area to Nakanoshima Island; a walk along Midosuji Avenue; through the happening Kita-Horie neighborhood.

Especially for Kids—Interactive exhibits at the Museum for Children at Kids Plaza; the whale shark at the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan; the thrill rides at Universal Studios Japan; Tennoji Zoo; a train ride on the JR Loop; a ride on a Ferris wheel.

Geography

Osaka (which translates as "big slope") is located on the western half of Japan's main island of Honshu. Despite its name, the city is flat, but low, rolling mountains surround the outer reaches and are visible from town. The Yodogawa River slices through the northern part of Osaka, splitting into smaller tributaries through the north central area of Yodoyabashi and near Osaka Castle. On the south side, the Yamatogawa River is a natural demarcation between Osaka and neighboring Sakai City.

Osaka has two principal commercial areas: Kita (literally "north"), otherwise known as Umeda, the area around Osaka JR Station; and Minami ("south"), comprising the heart of the city centered around Namba and including the Shinsaibashi shopping areas, America-Mura and Dotombori. Dotombori is the traditional nightlife center of the city, American-Mura is a mecca for Osakan youth and Namba features major private railroad terminals and department stores.

Linking the two main areas along a north-south axis is Osaka's main traffic artery, Midosuji Boulevard. The entire length of the boulevard is lined with lovely gingko trees, with foliage that turns a brilliant gold in the fall. Underneath the boulevard is the Midosuji subway line. North of Umeda, this thoroughfare continues across the Yodogawa River and is known as Shin-Midosuji, extending past Shin-Osaka Station and up into the northern suburbs.

Much of the action in Osaka lies close to Midosuji Boulevard. From north to south, the main centers of interest include Umeda; Kitanoshima island with its comfortingly stolid, retro architecture; and Yodoyabashi, Kitahama and Hommachi, the city's financial and business center. Shinsaibashi and Minami Semba are the principal areas for shopping.

To the west of Midosuji, a younger crowd is attracted to the gentrifying areas of Kita- and Minami-Horie and around Utsubo-koen Park. On either side of the Dotombori canal, the nightlife is entertainingly seedy although the area has been enhanced by an attractive boardwalklike riverside promenade. At the far south of Midosuji is Namba, an area of department stores and old-style markets that has seen some development.

Other areas of interest in Osaka are Kyobashi and Osaka Castle, to the northeast of center; Tsuruhashi to the east; and Tempozan and the ATC port area on the waterfront to the west. Tennoji is south of Minami. Sumiyoshi Taisha and Nagai Park are close to the southern edge of the city.

In English, the Japanese suffix ku translates as "ward." The main wards that you are likely to hear mentioned, either as part of an address or simply as an area of town, are Kita-ku (including Umeda, Kita-Shinchi and the Ritz-Carlton hotel), Chuo-ku (includes Minami, Namba, Shinsaibashi, Dotombori and Osaka Castle), Tennoji-ku (includes Tennoji, Abeno Harukas, Abenobashi, the zoo and Tsutenkaku Tower), Sumiyoshi-ku (Sumiyoshi Taisha Jinja shrine) and Suminoe-ku (the port area, including the aquarium, Asian Trade Center, Cosmo Tower and the Nanko Natural Bird Sanctuary).

Note: As with most cities in Japan, many streets in Osaka don't have names. Major roads and expressways are named or numbered, however. The lack of street names is cause for much confusion for visitors, and the Japanese seem no less confounded, especially around Osaka station where there has been much redevelopment over the past decade. Street addresses are complicated, especially if you do not read Japanese, and translations may have different spellings.

History

From the mid-seventh century, Naniwa, as Osaka was then known, served as the nation's capital. Its port welcomed visitors from China, Korea and other areas of Asia. The historical ruins of Naniwa-no-Miya Palace are testimony to its rich and honorable place in history. Because of its busy port, the city continued to flourish even after the capital shifted to Nara in 710 and then to Kyoto in 794.

In 1583, Osaka Castle was constructed, and Hideyoshi Toyotomi ruled the nation from this base. A town grew around the castle as merchants moved from nearby Sakai and Fushimi, developing a vibrant commercial district. Osaka soon transformed into both an economic and political center.

After a period of decline following Toyotomi's death, the city boomed again during the Edo Period (1603-1867) as a thriving economic hub and distribution center for rice. It was during this time that Osaka's performing arts were expanded and refined. Tekijuku, a school for the study of advanced Western medicine, bolstered Osaka's reputation in the intellectual arena.

In 1886, the Prefecture of Osaka was established, and three years later the city of Osaka became official. When Tokyo was designated as the nation's administrative and economic center around this time, only a budding textile industry saved Osaka from economic collapse.

World War I brought a switch from textiles to chemicals and heavy-machinery manufacturing. Attacks in World War II left most of the city in ruins, and nearly all industrial production ceased. Renewal and rapid growth followed the war, and soon the city regained its economic footing.

The 1960s spawned major urban planning and development: Road and railway networks were constructed and other parts of the infrastructure were improved, all of which helped secure Osaka's status as a major Japanese city. In 1970, Osaka hosted the World Expo, and it has since regularly been the site of international happenings, from economic forums to sporting events. Museums, hotels, sporting arenas and service facilities have been constructed at an amazing rate, and the opening of the futuristic Kansai International Airport provided a veritable bridge to the world.

The rise of numerous skyscraping office and condominium towers (particularly in the Umeda and Tennoji areas) since the mid-1990s has redrawn the city's skyline. One notable skyline feature is Osaka Station City, Osaka's principal railway station, which features various shops and a number of plazas and gardens throughout the bright, modern complex.

Potpourri

Osaka had its own port by the fifth century AD and quickly became the nation's center of distribution. The tradition continues to this day.

Since the Edo period (1603-1867), Osaka has been known as the Land of Kitchens because the country's greatest selection of foods—from both the land and the sea—has passed through its ports, markets and restaurants.

Osaka is an ideal base from which to explore. Kyoto, the cultural heart of Japan, is just 30 minutes away by express train. Kobe is just 20 minutes away and Nara, an ancient capital city and a calming green alternative to city life, is only 40 minutes to the east.

Osaka's Tsuruhashi district is home to Japan's largest Korean community. Its small restaurant- and shop-lined streets give an ethnic diversity to the town.

More than 4,000 cherry trees bloom each spring on the grounds of Osaka Castle.

Tokyoites walk to the left, and Osakans walk to the right. Similarly, Osakans stand on the right on escalators to let people pass, while Tokyoites stand on the left. It's said Osakans developed the habit long ago in the days of the kimono, when wallets and purses were carried inside the right sleeve and locals walked to the right, close to walls and fences, making it difficult for nimble-fingered thieves.

Osaka has more underground shopping and dining areas than anywhere else in Japan. Virtually all of the Umeda area, for example, is accessible via underground shopping and restaurant corridors. It also has the nation's longest shopping street: Tenjimbashi-suji, which is 1.6 mi/2.6 km long.

Location

Cruise ships dock at Tempozan, located in Nanko port district to the west of downtown. It is easily accessed via Osakako Station on the subway Chuo line. Nanko Port is an active area built on reclaimed land. There are plenty of amusements and eating options there. Passengers arriving at Tempozan will be immediately impressed by one of Japan's largest Ferris wheels. The Osaka Culturarium at Tempozan with its changing exhibitions, Tempozan Marketplace with shops and restaurants, and Osaka Aquarium are also nearby. Shuttle and ferry boats travel between Tempozan and Universal Studios Japan.

For further port information visit http://www.city.osaka.lg.jp/contents/wdu020/port/information/facilities_04.html.

Shore Excursions

Consider signing up for the excursions offered by your ship. They may not be the least expensive way to see Osaka, but you won't have to waste your limited time making arrangements yourself—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship.

Shore excursions—and their prices—vary from cruise line to cruise line. Popular sightseeing trips include Osaka Castle, the Shinsaibashi area, Namba, Den-Den town, Shinsekai and Umeda for great dining and shopping. Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information.

Passengers who do not wish to venture into town have a number of options immediately upon disembarking at Tempozan Port. The port is located in an area called Tempozan Harbor Village, which is home to such attractions as a huge Ferris wheel, the Osaka Culturarium at Tempozan, Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan and Tempozan Marketplace with its many shops and restaurants.

Cosmos Square is located south of the port area on Sakishima Island, just two subway stops away. Options there include Cosmo Tower, ATC Asia & Pacific Trade Center and the Osaka Nanko Bird Sanctuary.

Universal Studios Japan is on Sakurajima Island, located just to the north of Tempozan Port. Access is available via Tempozan River Ferries or Captain Line boat shuttle.