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Geography

History

Encompassing more than a dozen major linguistic and cultural ethnic groups, the area known today as Togo was at the edge of many African empires. The varied African tribes that passed through all left their mark, as have the Portuguese, Germans, British and French.

Portuguese slave traders were the first Europeans to venture into Togo, during the time when the region was called the "Slave Coast." Except for Cameroon, Togo is the only country in West Africa in which German colonialists had a significant influence. In 1884, a German diplomat, Gustav Nachtigal, signed a treaty with King Mlapa III (the chief of Togoville) establishing the protectorate of German Togoland. The Germans developed Togo's agricultural resources, and German Togoland was an imperial colony for 30 years until August 1914, when, in the first Allied victory anywhere in World War I, the British and French took it away. The country was divided between the two winning powers as a League of Nations mandate, and Togo's already illogical borders became even more peculiar when many tribal communities were split. In 1956, the people voted to make those borders permanent, and the western third of Togo (which had been controlled by Britain) joined Ghana. Though more than 45 ethnic groups can be identified in Togo today, the population consists primarily of Ewe (Bantu) tribes in the south and Kabye (Hamitic) tribes in the less developed north.

The French part, modern-day Togo, became independent in 1960. Two violent coups brought Gnassingbe Eyadema to power in 1967, and he was in an unchallenged position of authority for the following quarter century. Eyadema, a Kabye and a former army sergeant, nationalized the phosphate industry and helped develop Togo's road system and modern communications network. But he also saddled the nation with several white elephants (for example, an electric-powered steel mill in a nation that must import all of its energy).

Winds of democratic change began to blow through the nation, and in June 1991, after civil unrest to end one-party rule, Eyadema agreed to give up many of his powers and to become president in name only. But he almost immediately changed his mind, and further public disorder occurred. The country held elections in 1993, but they were undermined by massive fraud. Elections were held again the following year, which earned the opposition a number of seats in the National Assembly. Eyadema, however, was re-elected president in 1998, though once again, the elections were almost comically marred by fraud. These controversial elections have tended to bring about government abuses—contributing heavily to Togo's very poor human-rights record.

Eyadema died of a heart attack in early 2005, and within hours of his death, the military installed Faure Gnassingbe, son of the ironhanded ruler. Riots in the week following Gnassingbe's appointment saw four protesters killed in clashes with security forces. The 53-member African Union blasted the army installation as a military coup d'etat, threatened sanctions and hinted at military action, forcing Gnassingbe to step down.

In April, the small West African country went to the polls to elect its first new president in 38 years. But the elections were marred by violent clashes; a U.N. report estimates that between 400 and 500 people were killed. The final election results gave Gnassingbe just over 60% of the vote, but his victory sparked more violent protests by opposition supporters who said the vote was rigged. More than 30,000 fled to neighboring Benin and Ghana.

Togo has remained tense since the April presidential ballot, and the brutal beating in early October 2005 of an opposition journalist has raised doubts about the country's progress on reform. The European Union has pledged to help fund parliamentary elections, which Gnassingbe has promised to conduct as soon as possible.

Snapshot

Among Togo's chief attractions are varied and lovely scenery, West African culture, friendly people, beaches, nightlife, vodun, casinos and great markets.

Togo will appeal to adventurous travelers who have already been to other places in Africa and are interested in seeing varied scenery and tribal cultures. However, don't expect first-class accommodations and service throughout your stay. And don't go to Togo simply to view wildlife—it's better elsewhere.

Potpourri

Traditional African healers can be found throughout Togo. If you're feeling ill and have faith in the native beliefs, you might want to visit a healer in Glidji or Aneho (the former capital of Togo, which also claims to be the home of vodun).

In markets, particularly in the capital, you will notice elaborately dressed women known as "Nana Benz" or "Mama Benz" (a name derived from Mercedes Benz, their car of choice). Nana Benz are known to be the richest and most efficient businesspeople in Africa, monopolizing the sale of cloth and textiles from throughout the continent.

Caucasian travelers are sure to hear children chanting, "Yovo, yovo, bonsoir!" Yovo means "white," "stranger," even "peeled orange."

WAWA, a popular expression used by expatriates in West Africa, means "West Africa Wins Again."

If you ride a moped, wear your helmet even if it has no straps to hold it on your head. The police strictly enforce the laws (every law breaker means more potential bribe money, especially if you are a foreigner).

Wait to buy CDs or cassettes of Togolese music at home. The production quality is often shabby in Togo shops.

Expect to pay to take photos, and always ask permission to photograph people, even in public settings.

More than two-thirds of the population of Togo is under the age of 30.

Lome sits right on the border with Ghana. Before independence, part of eastern Ghana made up the British part of the colony of Togo. So some city streets end abruptly at a high chain-link fence topped with coils of barbed wire. The fence marks the "new" border.

There's a casino in the Sarakawa Hotel in Lome. You can also rent horses there to ride along the beach.

The Tamberna Valley, in northeastern Togo, is where you'll find houses that resemble castles. Built with straw, clay and cob, the homes are all arranged in a circle for defense.