The small city of Playa del Carmen on Mexico's Yucatan coast is the geographic and cultural center of the Riviera Maya, one of Mexico's fastest-growing destinations. It is enjoyable for what it is, but perhaps more for what it's not.
It's not Cancun, the major resort area that's about an hour's drive north. For those who find Cancun too large and glossy and lacking in local character, bustling Playa del Carmen is the cure: cozy, funky and quite international, though still with a Mexican flair.
But the once small town has been changing quickly: Large numbers of luxury and all-inclusive hotels, boutiques and restaurants are the norm, and the lovely Playa del Carmen beach is becoming sandwiched between large-scale developments. The Playacar complex just south of downtown Playa del Carmen includes more than a dozen resorts, with further development spread all along the Riviera Maya.
Playa del Carmen's main pedestrian walkways are often jammed with tourists and aggressive salespeople trying to lure them into stores and restaurants. Some claim this is the fastest-growing city in Mexico, but lovers of the relaxed vibe shouldn't give up on Playa just yet.
Despite the town's growing popularity, the pace remains delightfully slow much of the time. And the core of this pleasant town is young, vibrant and joyous. During the day, the downtown beaches always have a lively crowd of locals and tourists enjoying the azure waters of the Caribbean, and the downtown shops and restaurants are alive with customers. In the evenings, Playa takes on a more festive air, with groups of friends, families and strolling musicians filling the street as the local restaurants, bars and discos compete for their attention.
Must See or Do
Sights—The ancient Mayan temples overlooking the Caribbean at Tulum; the town's bustling main square; the Frida Kahlo Museum.
Memorable Meals—Refined dining at Plank Gourmet Grill & Patio Bar; nuevo Mexican cuisine in a rustic ambience at La Cueva del Chango; authentic Italian dishes at Romeo's or Casa Mediterranea; fresh Mexican-style seafood at El Pirata.
Late Night—The lively bars on Avenida 5 and Calle 12; Cancun-style mingling and dancing at Coco Bongo.
Walks—Along Avenida 5, Playa's main pedestrian walkway, lined with shops and restaurants; Playa's sandy beaches stretching north and south of the ferry dock.
Especially for Kids—Snorkeling, dolphin encounters, pony rides and exotic animals at Xcaret
Geography
Playa is laid out in a grid pattern, so it's easy to navigate on foot. The main street between the highway and the beach runs west to east and is called Avenida Juarez. Banks, pharmacies and stores frequented by the locals line this street.
The main tourist area is spread out along Avenida 5 (locally called "La Quinta") and has hotels, restaurants, bars, dive shops, car rental offices, travel agencies and a slew of boutiques. It runs parallel to and just a block or two away from the beach and stretches for more than 20 blocks, beginning at Calle 1, near the ferry dock. The entire street is pedestrian-only until Calle 42. The road is being extended farther and farther north as more buildings are constructed, but it gets much less crowded after crossing Calle 38 heading north.
Avenida 10, which is parallel to Avenida 5 and two blocks inland (the avenue numbers increase in fives), is also becoming a busy street as more businesses find their way there.
For all its growth, the town is still quite walkable. In fact, the streets are so narrow and parking spaces so scarce that you're better off not driving while in town.
History
The story of Playa mirrors the story of the northern Yucatan. For a very long time, very little happened. Fishing was the business, and few people made their way to the area. Things began to change in the mid-1970s, after the resorts of Cancun opened. More travelers began passing through Playa as they made their way down the Akumal Coast to dive, traveled to Tulum to see the ruins or caught the ferry to the island of Cozumel.
Those who settled in for a longer stay tended to be beach bums or backpacker-style vacationers seeking a beach and inexpensive lodging. Some of them decided to take up residence and opened small inns and cafes on streets that, at the time, were merely dirt roads. But tourism along the Riviera Maya has kicked into a higher gear, and Playa has been one of the biggest areas of growth—especially since the appearance of more cruise ships at nearby Cozumel.
Potpourri
Though Spanish and English are the most common languages in town, you'll also hear Italian and German spoken by many visitors and expats.
The shores of Playa del Carmen were the launching point for ancient Mayans who made the pilgrimage to Cozumel Island to pay homage to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility. The Riviera Maya tourist office sponsors an annual canoe excursion in May, complete with ancient rituals that replicate this passage.
Several Corona beer commercials have been filmed at the nearby beaches of Punta Venado.
Jaguars, which are on the endangered species list and considered sacred by the Maya, still roam the jungles of the Sian Ka'an Biosphere, south of Playa.
Location
Cruise-ship passengers headed to Playa del Carmen first dock at Cozumel across the bay at full-service terminals, which are conveniently located near the island's central plaza. A 35-minute ferry ride later, passengers arrive in Playa del Carmen and return to their ship the same way.
Those disembarking from the ferry at Playa will find taxis, restaurants, shops, tour operators and bars barely a block from where they stepped ashore. A tourist information kiosk is a few blocks away on Avenida 5.
Some cruise ships dock at Puerto Calica, a deepwater port about 5 mi/8 km south of Playa. There's not a lot to see around Puerto Calica, but there are taxis waiting outside the terminal. Expect to pay about US$35 for a taxi ride into Playa.
Shore Excursions
Typical shore excursions may offer snorkeling, diving or trips to Cancun, Xcaret, Xel-Ha, Tulum, Coba or Chichen Itza. Golf can be played in Cozumel. Check with your travel agent for additional information.