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Nestled in the western Pacific Ocean, the Palau archiplego stretches more than 100 mi/160 km from tip to tip. Crowned by a stunning atoll in the north and some historic islands in the south, it is one of the most diverse marine ecosystems on Earth.

Surrounded by a large outer barrier reef, Palau boasts the incredible Rock Islands in the central and southern part of the country and Micronesia's second-largest landmass in Babeldaob Island in the north.

Hailed by scuba divers for decades, Palau (pronounced bay-LAU) is now attracting a greater variety of tourists with hikes, kayaking, camping, day trips to waterfalls, war ruins and traditional settings. The Rock Islands are uninhabited, but the main city of Koror has numerous hotels and restaurants. You can explore nature by day and enjoy the amenities at night.

Gorgeous rolling hills, old war caves, rocky coastlines, inviting beaches and lush, tropical jungles give visitors lots to do. Also, a strong conservation ethic exists there, which means sharks still roam the reefs, manta rays still swoop over the heads of divers, and large schools of fish still feed in the currents.

Palau itself is in the midst of a building spurt, making Koror traffic a bit muddled, but the rest of the islands remain pretty much untouched because of the active ecofriendly laws that limit development.

Geography

Palau is one of nature's wonders with a huge outer barrier reef encompassing numerous islands. The islands share varied topographies and are made of sand, limestone and iron-rich soils. It lies about two hours by jet or 800 mi/1,288 km south of Guam, the main air hub. Fewer than a dozen of the more than 500 islands are inhabited. A vast inner lagoon features coral reefs, deep channels and incubation areas for marine life. This accounts for Palau's amazing diversity.

Kyangel Atoll lies off the barrier reef in the north. About 200 mi/322 km south, the country also boasts a series of partially inhabited atolls.

History

Palau's corner of the Pacific is believed to have been settled by Southeast Asians from the Malay Peninsula around 1500 BC. It is not known if these original settlers stayed or moved on. Rock monoliths in northern Palau may have come from these people. Some 3,000 years later, in the 1780s, a British ship called the Antelope crashed on the reef near Ulong Island, and Palau was "discovered." A Palauan chief's son, Prince Lee Boo, went to Britain in the 1780s on the Antelope and was celebrated in London as a distinguished visitor. Sadly, he succumbed to sickness and died there. His grave can still be seen in the city.

Germany purchased Palau from the Spanish following the Spanish-American War, but the Japanese, as allies of the governments in London and Paris, took the archipelago from Berlin at the beginning of World War I. Japan transformed Palau into bustling centers of the Japanese economy. They also established kankodan, the Japanese term for tourism, and an industry was born. Palauans even traveled to Japan to compete in baseball and other sports.

After Japan's defeat in World War II, all of its island possessions were turned over to the victors, and Palau became part of the U.S.-administered Trust Territory of the United Nations. The island finally gained its independence in 1994, when voters approved a Compact for Free Association with the U.S.

Today, Palau is a leader in environmental politics. It has banned shark finning and other illegal fishing practices. Palau is slowly developing the large northern island, relocating the political capitol to Melelkeok State and completing a road that runs the length of the island. The historic island of Peleliu in the south is also developing a World War II museum and paving its once bumpy coral roads. Tourism remains Palau's main industry.

Snapshot

Palau's foremost attractions are scuba diving, snorkeling, deep-sea fishing, beaches, Pacific culture, the Rock Islands, relaxation and historic sites.

Palau will appeal to travelers who like to dive or snorkel. The islands nearest the best diving spots are relatively undeveloped. Palau is growing, however. Be prepared for hot, humid weather.

Potpourri

Palau's flag is light blue with a small yellow circle. The pale blue symbolizes the sea, and the yellow circle represents the moon. The combination of the two symbols recognizes the tranquility of island life.

A few statistics on Palau's incredible marine biodiversity: There are about 70 species of hard coral in the Caribbean, and there are no soft corals. However, Palau has more than 400 species of hard corals and more than 200 species of soft corals. Most tropical places have two kinds of sea grass; Palau has nine. Hawaii has 13 species of damselfish, Palau, about 80.

The gables of Palauan men's houses were traditionally decorated with large, painted legends. In the 1930s, Japanese anthropologist Hisakatsu Hijakata helped the Palauans revitalize this traditional art form by teaching five of his students to carve. They made carved and painted storyboards of these legends for visiting tourists from Japan to buy. This tradition continues today.

The most famous Palauan storyboard carver is Francisco Sbal, who developed a tribal type of carving that is emulated by carvers today. Ibedul (High Chief) Charlie Gibbons was also an amazing artist who also captured daily life in Palau in paintings that are treasured today.

Palau has the world's largest dolphin facility. The bottlenose dolphins that live there were rescued from slaughter in Japan and brought there for training. The facility is nestled in the Rock Islands, and people can visit and swim and feed these mammals daily.

Many islanders chew betel nut, a mild stimulant often mixed with ground lime (limestone residue, not the fruit). This turns the spittle red, and many Palauans have red lips, teeth and tongues.

A yacht that once belonged to U.S. Gen. Douglas MacArthur is sunk near a dock in southern Peleliu.

Although Republic of Palau is the official name of the country, Belau (pronouced bay-LAU) is the Palauan word that locals always use and it is sometimes spelled that way.

If you are lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the rare Palauan dugong. This sea cow is similar to a manatee but is a powerful swimmer, having a fluked tail like a dolphin. A creature of Palauan legend, it is endangered today from illegal hunting.

Angaur is home to a band of 600 macaque monkeys that live in the jungles near the old phosphate mines. They were introduced by the Germans, as were cockatoos and eclectus parrots.

Palau has large numbers of foreign workers in the private sector. Filipinos make up the largest contingent and can be seen manning the desks and waiting the tables in most of Palau's hotels and restaurants.

Palauans are a well-educated and mobile people with numerous doctors, attorneys and other professionals working in Koror. In addition, there are large Palauan communities in the U.S., Hawaii and Guam. The mobility of Palauans has been facilitated greatly by the compact the nation shares with the U.S.