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Oaxaca is possibly the loveliest state capital in Mexico, with ancient ruins, colonial architecture, distinctive food and friendly, relaxed people. Oaxaca (pronounced wah-HAH-kah) also has several large markets where you can sample the local produce and unique indigenous crafts of the region. Much of Oaxaca's tourist activity is centered in the main plaza, the zocalo, which features many outdoor cafes and restaurants.

Although Oaxaca contains many signs of the modern world, from televisions and Internet cafes to McDonald's and denim, many of the traditional ways and dress are still evident. Along the streets, aproned women with long black hair braided with colored ribbons go to the market with baskets of tortillas, fruits and flowers skillfully balanced on their heads. Even in the Oaxaca city center, an occasional farmer on an alfalfa-loaded burro makes his or her rounds.

Oaxaca's historic center has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its Spanish Colonial street plan and buildings are still intact, making it compact and walkable. The city serves as a commercial center for the farming villages, or pueblos, of the region, and farmers take their alfalfa, corn and other vegetables there to sell. The town is a foodie's haven, with outstanding dishes made from mole that rival Puebla's, plus a local cheese called quesilla and rich chocolate, the best in Mexico.

Oaxaca is especially well-known for its distinctive artisan tradition, which produces pottery, handwoven rugs and textiles, wood carvings and other regional crafts. Tradition-minded residents successfully blocked a government directive to cut down the trees in the zocalo and put up fast-food chain restaurants in the historic buildings.

Popular mainly with Mexican visitors, Oaxaca still draws enough foreign travelers that English is spoken in many businesses in the historic center. However, stick to the big hotels for lodging because smaller inns may not have English-speaking staff.

Must See or Do

Sights—Panoramic views of Oaxaca from the spectacular hilltop ruins of Monte Alban; the opulent interior of Iglesia Santo Domingo de Guzman.

Museums—Pre-Columbian treasures in the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca; contemporary Oaxacan art at the Museo de los Pintores Oaxaquenos.

Memorable Meals—Oaxacan fusion cuisine at Los Danzantes; gourmet Oaxacan dishes in a rustic setting at Zandunga; excellent Oaxacan and international food in a romantic old hacienda at El Cipres; healthy and delicious breakfasts at La Olla.

Late Night—Dancing to live Latin music at La Candela; mingling with the young crowd at El Central; enjoying the local beverage at the Casa de Mezcal.

Walks—Climbing to the Cerro del Fortin lookout; strolling Macedonia Alcala pedestrian mall with its stores and restaurants.

Especially for Kids—Games in the Museo de 8 Venado (Museum of the Eight Deer); swimming at Balneario La Bamba.

Geography

History

The central valleys of the state of Oaxaca have been inhabited for more than 10,000 years. The Zapotecs began construction of the city of Monte Alban on a high plateau around 500 BC. From AD 300 to 850, Monte Alban was an advanced city-state and one of the most important trading centers in Mesoamerica. Around AD 1000, the Mixtecs from the north conquered the Zapotecs and dominated the region until the warlike Aztecs took over in the 15th century. Spanish conquistadors arrived in the Valley of Oaxaca in 1520 and, with the help of Zapotec allies, eventually defeated the Aztecs. The Spanish officially founded the city of Oaxaca in 1529.

For 300 years, until Mexico gained its independence from Spain in 1821, the colonial government and hierarchy took advantage of indigenous workers to process the native riches of the region, primarily silver, gold and cochineal—a red dye made from tiny cactus beetles. This period also saw the arrival of Catholic missionaries and the subsequent building of the magnificent churches and convents that dot the city today.

Since Mexico's independence, Oaxaca has produced two of the country's presidents. The beloved Benito Juarez was an orphaned Zapotec boy who came to the city from his mountain village at age 12. He graduated from law school, became governor of Oaxaca and served three terms as president of Mexico until his death in office in 1872. His successor, Porfirio Diaz, was also from Oaxaca. His dictatorial and violent leadership style provoked the revolution of 1910.

The indigenous people of Oaxaca have retained much of their traditional way of life, from language and farming methods to crafts. Peasant land cooperatives help farmers in their struggle to make a living. The state of Oaxaca is still one of the poorest in Mexico, and its government has received criticism for alleged suppression of democracy and free speech, as well as for various human-rights violations.

Potpourri

With eight major vegetation zones, Oaxaca is one of the most biologically diverse regions in Mexico.

The agave plant grows abundantly in the countryside and is the source of mescal, a tequilalike beverage specific to Oaxaca. Specialty shops sell it all over the city.

Seventeen indigenous dialects are spoken in the state of Oaxaca. You can hear just about all of them at the markets in Oaxaca City.

Traditional Oaxacan food includes grasshoppers, or chapulines, which are eaten with salt, lemon and chilies. Dried grasshoppers can be found in huge open sacks in the Oaxaca City marketplace.

Oaxaca's artisans employ methods of production that date to pre-Hispanic times, including the use of backstrap looms and turning posts instead of a potter's wheel. Artisan villages are within a half-day trip of the capital.

The temazcal, or sacred pre-Hispanic sweat lodge, can be found at most major hotels. Local shamans conduct authentic ceremonies.