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Watching the tides in many places around the world may sound like pedestrian activity, quiet and relaxing. But in New Brunswick, it’s an awe-inspiring event that many tourists plan their visits around.

Along the Bay of Fundy, the changing tide transforms the landscape. The shoreline, submerged for 12 hours a day and teeming with living underwater creatures, becomes a barren beach where the curious can explore. As the tide recedes, small islands emerge as bizarre rock pinnacles topped by arched pine trees. The curiosities continue inland when the tides from the bay force the mighty St. John River to change direction twice a day. At low tide, the river hurtles through a narrow opening into the harbor, but at high tide the same river runs backward.

Travel through more of the province, and you'll find that the tides are just one of the contrasts New Brunswick has to offer. Cultures alternate between very English and very French to an amiable co-existence of both. The landscape changes from rugged seashore to dense forest to vibrant and interesting cities. Activities can vary from swimming in the warm waters of the Northumberland Strait to camping, hunting or fishing in the interior, to shopping and sightseeing in small fishing villages.

Given its compact size and the variety of experiences available here, we think New Brunswick should play center stage in your Maritime tour; it can easily fill a week all by itself.

Geography

History

The Maliseet (Wolastoqiyik) and Mi'kmaq natives lived in New Brunswick before the arrival of Europeans. They depended primarily on hunting for their livelihood; both deer and moose provided their meat and clothing. The first Europeans to reach New Brunswick may have been the Vikings, who some believe explored the coast as early as AD 1000. Six centuries later, a French expedition led by Samuel de Champlain began the first real colonization of the area. The French soon had to contend with the rival Dutch and English aspirations for the region, but they were able to hold on for more than a century.

The English eventually dominated, and in 1755 the French settlers in the Maritime Provinces (who called the area Acadia) were given the choice between swearing allegiance to Britain or leaving. Many Acadians chose exile, and large groups traveled to what we now know as New Orleans, the beginning of the Cajun culture in Louisiana. Others were driven into remote places in the province for a time, though some were able to return in the 1760s. Generations of schoolchildren knew of these events because they read, or had to memorize, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s 1847 poem Evangeline: "This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and the hemlocks . . ."

Most of the Acadians lost their livelihoods and property during the upheaval, but they managed to survive and eventually flourished. The people are still very much tied to the land and sea: New Brunswick's economy relies heavily on forestry, farming, fishing and tourism. History buffs will want to visit the Survival of the Acadians National Historic Site in St. Joseph, which has displays of crafts and exhibits that depict Acadian history and culture from the 1750s to the present.

Snapshot

New Brunswick's main attractions include beautiful scenery, parks, fishing, changing tides, varied hunting opportunities, historic and cultural sites, whale-watching, museums and Acadian culture.

The province will most appeal to those travelers who are interested in outdoor activities in an impressive natural setting. Those seeking the rapid pace and diverse attractions of large cities or warmer, drier climes may find New Brunswick less to their liking.

Potpourri

The beaches along the Gulf of St. Lawrence are said to have the warmest water north of Virginia, a product of the ocean currents.

Saint John is known as Canada's "Loyalist City" because of the 20,000 settlers who arrived there after fleeing the U.S. following the Revolutionary War. It's also known as "Canada's Most Irish City" because of the 50,000 or so immigrants from famine-ravaged Ireland who passed through the city beginning in 1843.

New Brunswick has 64 remaining covered bridges, and Kings County is considered the Covered Bridge Capital of Atlantic Canada.

Ganong Chocolates, in nearby St. Stephen, invented the first five-cent chocolate nut bar in North America.

Miramichi was home to the Cunard brothers, 19th-century shipbuilders whose name is synonymous today with luxury cruise ships.

New Brunswick likes its superlatives. It has what's said to be the world's longest covered bridge, in Hartland, and the best salmon fishing in Miramichi. Nackawic claims the world's largest axe. Shediac says it's the lobster capital of the world, with the world's largest lobster (actually an oversized sculpture that can be seen at the zany Lobster Festival in July).

St. Stephen and the bordering city of Calais (pronounced "callous"), Maine, hold a joint parade that crosses the border during their annual International Homecoming Festival each summer: Fire departments from the two communities are challenged to cross the international border to respond to one another's alarms.

Moncton was the first community in Canada to be officially declared bilingual.

The Marco Polo, a three-masted clipper ship built at Saint John in 1851 and called the fastest ship in the world, revolutionized the Canadian shipbuilding industry by circumnavigating the globe in less than six months—a remarkable speed record at the time. The site of its wreck in 1883 (off the coast of Prince Edward Island) is now a protected National Historic Site.

More than 30 years ago, Malcolm Bricklin convinced Nova Scotia's premier, Richard Hatfield, to subsidize his safety-focused, acrylic-bodied sportscar-manufacturing dreams. Detroit factories supplied the parts, but "The Bricklins" were assembled in Saint John. The gull-winged cars were shipped back to the U.S., but they never caught on and the company declared bankruptcy in 1976. New Brunswick was left with a Can$23 million debt.

On the Tobique River (Mactaquac region) there is a fiddling contest each June. What makes this contest unique is that it's held on the river in handmade canoes.

Location

Cruise ships enter the Bay of Fundy, which separates Nova Scotia from New Brunswick and is home to the tall tides of Fundy. Now considered the gateway to New Brunswick—and the second largest port in Atlantic Canada—Saint John welcomes more than 80 cruise ships annually, with 180,000 cruising tourists.

Cruise ships dock in the heart of Saint John at one of the three main cruise ship berths: the purpose-built cruise terminal Pugsley A/B, Pugsley C and Long Wharf. Passengers are welcomed at the new Can$8.7 million Cruise Welcome Center, which offer such amenities as Wi-Fi, phones and shops in the two story building. Phone 506-636-4869. http://www.sjport.com.

Taxis are always lined up dockside when ships come in. Saint John is keenly interested in the quality of guest experiences, so the city has initiated a taxi host program. All drivers in the cruise welcome center are certified.

Many large cruise ships make port calls to Saint John each year. Some of the major lines that have visited and continue to visit Saint John are Carnival Cruise Line, Princess Cruises and Norwegian Cruise Lines.

For more information, contact Saint John Port Corporation, Harbour Building, 133 Prince William St., Saint John, New Brunswick. Phone 506-636-5015.

Shore Excursions

Consider one of the shore excursions offered by your cruise line. There are easy step-on, step-off city tours by trolley or bus, or you can sign up for a walking tour and visit the sights of Canada's oldest incorporated city. Be sure to stop at Saint John's vibrant City Market, the oldest continuously operated farmer's market in Canada. The New Brunswick Museum offers a glimpse into the maritime past, and historic buildings line streets full of uptown shops. For more history, see the Saint John Jewish Historical Museum, the Firefighters' Museum, Loyalist House and Barbour's General Store.

The splendid Reversing Falls are only minutes from downtown, and you can see the mighty Saint John River experience low and high tide all in one day. Jet-boat rides are available in the summer. For a stunning scenic view of the city, ascend the Carleton Martello Tower, a national historic site that has ties to both the War of 1812 and World War II.

For nature buffs, Rockwood Park (one of Canada's largest municipal parks) is home to a golf course, the Cherry Brook Zoo, a campground and plenty of trails ideal for walks and hikes. Irving Nature Park in the city's west end offers plenty of wildlife viewing and has breathtaking views.

Other must-sees include Hopewell Rocks, and whale watching along St. Andrews by-the-Sea.