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Moldova remains at a stalemate. The former Soviet republic is split into two regions, with most of the country controlled by the government and a small slice of land controlled by rebel separatists. Neither side possesses the political drive to end the division. Another faction is demanding that the country once again become part of its neighbor Romania, as it was before World War II.

Life in Moldova is hard and gritty, but it is changing. It is not as gloomy as it was after the breakup of the Soviet Union, and citizens maintain a good attitude about their modest way of life. The transition to an open economy has been difficult, but few people support a return to communism. Moldova is far less developed than many other Eastern European countries in terms of public transportation, tourism and even cultural identity, but it can still be a fascinating place for travelers who enjoy sightseeing off the beaten path.

Geography

History

In ancient times, Moldova was one of the Roman Empire's easternmost outposts, and its Roman (and Byzantine) heritage is evident in its language and religion. Successive waves of Poles, Lithuanians, Turks, Cossacks, Romanians and Russians all left their marks on the land and its people. Before World War II, the country was part of the Romanian principality of Moldavia. As spoils of the war, the Soviet Union absorbed part of that principality and called it the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic. (The other half remained part of Romania.) The disintegration of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s led to a reaffirmation of Moldova's Romanian culture: Moldovian (acknowledged again to be a variant of Romanian) is now the official language, the Latin alphabet has been reintroduced, and a flag that's almost exactly like Romania's has been adopted.

Moldova's internal struggle began shortly after it declared its independence, when the ethnic Russian and Ukrainian minority on the eastern side of the Dniester River rose up against the government. The Russian army intervened in favor of the separatists, leading to the fragmented status that exists today. The area bounded by Tiraspol, Tighina and Dubasari remains an autonomous state: the "Trans-Dniester Republic," commonly known as Transdniestria. This sliver of land is one of the last places in the world that practices a pure Stalinist form of government. The land's leader, Igor Smirnov, claims that he and his cronies rule the area as sheriffs. It is like stepping back in time to the years prior to perestroika and glasnost. Instead of the state controlling everything, the sheriff brand permeates almost all aspects of market life: gas station, supermarkets and even the local soccer team in Tiraspol. Although the Moldovan government and Transdniestrian separatists have signed a peace accord and tensions have eased somewhat, the dispute is far from resolved.

Snapshot

The main attractions of Moldova include wine tours, cathedrals, art, historical sites and bucolic settings.

The country will appeal to flexible, open-minded travelers who have experience traveling in Eastern Europe and want to see more. Don't expect deluxe accommodations or an active nightlife outside Chisinau. Last-minute schedule changes, delays and unexpected closings are common.

Potpourri

Moldova covers much of an area once known as Bessarabia.

Cricova has the world's largest wine cellar. It has more than 80 mi/130 km of tunnels. Nearly one-third of all the wine consumed in the former Soviet Union came from Moldova. Another good winery is the Milestii Mici winery (13 mi/20 km south of Chisinau), which has a collection of 2 million bottles housed in near identical conditions to those at Cricova.

Gen. Alexander Lebed, the former commander of Russian forces in Moldova, was very popular in the Transdniestria region before going on to become a major figure in Russian politics. When he was recalled to Moscow, women lay on an airport runway to keep his successor from landing.

Easter is the country's biggest celebration, but the best time of year to visit is in early October when Chisinau and outlying wineries host the country's major wine festival.

The bell of the Cathedral of the Nativity in Chisinau was cast from guns the Russians captured from the Turks.

The Folk Museum in Evancha features Moldovan musical instruments and embroidery.

King Charles XII of Sweden languished in Tighina from 1713 to 1715 as a "guest" of the Turkish sultan.

With the reintroduction of the Latin alphabet, don't be surprised if the road maps, street signs, guidebooks and directions from residents all have different spellings for the same place.

Electrical shortages have led to conservation measures, such as using only every other streetlight and requiring some shops outside the capital to open only during daylight hours.

The black market and underground economy is thriving: Locals call it the "Mafia."