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Marseille, France, is an ancient city that never ceases to arouse passions. This colorful Mediterranean port has seen the arrival of Greek settlers, Roman conquerors, swashbuckling sailors, religious crusaders, tourists looking for sunny skies and immigrants looking for a home in France's melting pot.

The French either love or detest Marseille, but it certainly leaves no one indifferent. Whereas Parisians once snubbed Marseille, many are now heading south on the high-speed TGV train to experience the charm and sun of this thriving cosmopolitan city.

Marseille has rhythm and spice, and its inhabitants are fiercely proud of their city. Though twice as big in area as Paris, it is still thought of as a series of small "villages," each with its own unique history and traditions. In fact, unlike in Paris, is it not uncommon to see people in Marseille who live, work and socialize in the same district, which makes the feeling of living in a village all the more present.

The more popular villages include Le Panier, La Belle de Mai, Mazargues, Le Roucas Blanc and Saint Giniez. Some are known for their beaches (La Vieille Chapelle), some for the famous artists who were inspired there (Cezanne and Braque in L'Estaque), still others for their charming ports (Le Vallon des Auffes, La Pointe Rouge, Le Vieux Port).

With its rich history, diverse culture, authentic character, immense pride and warm people, Marseille will have you lowering your anchor to stay awhile.

Must See or Do

Sights—The morning fish market on the Quai des Belges at the Vieux Port; walk or take the tourist train up to the magnificent Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde for views over the whole city; St. Victor Abbey, where you can see how the church developed as various sections were built from the fifth to the 19th centuries.

Museums—The MuCEM for exhibits on the culture and people of the Mediterranean region; the Musee Grobet-Labadie for a diverse and eclectic art collection; cutting-edge contemporary art at the Musee d'Art Contemporain; the museums and poetry center at Centre de la Vieille Charite.

Memorable Meals—Arret Buffet for wonderful home-style French food with a personal touch; Le Julien for excellent and subtle French cuisine; Le Rhul for good Bouillabaise; La Goulette for couscous.

Late Night—The historic Bar de la Marine by the Vieux Port; rubbing shoulders with local artists and musicians at L'Unic; the Pelle-Mele for late-night jazz.

Walks—Stroll around the quiet old streets of Le Panier district, where the city first grew up; enjoy seaside walks along the Promenade and Corniche. Visit the island of Pomeques where you can take a 20-minute hike to go swimming in small calanques.

Especially for Kids—The Prado beaches with loads of kids' activities; a boat trip to the island and Chateau d'If; a visit to one of the city's makers of santons (clay models) in the Panier district.

Geography

Marseille, in the region of France called Bouches-du-Rhone (mouth of the Rhone River), owes much of its charm to its agreeable geography. The city itself stretches 43 mi/70 km along the coast, with the mountain ranges of St. Cyr, Etoile and Estaque at its back and dozens of breathtaking sea inlets along its rocky coastline.

To navigate the city, imagine Marseille with the Vieux Port as a starting point. To the immediate north, you'll find the shipyard where cruise ships dock. From the center of the port, the city's main street, La Canebiere, divides the city in two. Heading southeast from near the base of the Canebiere, you'll reach the other main artery, Rue de Rome. Parallel to Rue de Rome is the fashionable and boutique-lined Rue Paradis. Follow Rue Paradis to its end and you'll bump into the Avenue du Prado, which leads to the Promenade and Marseille's wonderful beaches.

History

Marseille is one of the oldest cities in France. Around 600 BC, the Greeks settled in what they called Massalia, an inlet on the southeast coast of France that was protected from harsh storms and blessed with a direct route to the trade-facilitating Rhone River. Years later, the Greeks invited the Romans to help them fight the Franks, a move that had disastrous results: The power-hungry Romans eventually claimed the town's fleet, treasures and trade. In 1481, the thriving port of Marseille became part of the kingdom of France.

In the 19th century, Marseille prospered, with flour mills, sugar refineries and factories that produced olive oil, soap and cigarettes. Wide boulevards were built, and a system of public transportation was developed. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 further advanced commerce in the Mediterranean, bolstering Marseille's trade networks.

In the 20th century, however, the city's fortunes declined. It was heavily bombed during World War II and suffered losses under the German occupation in 1943. The eight-year closure of the Suez Canal (1967-75) and the loss of French colonies in northern Africa in the 1960s eroded Marseille's economic prosperity.

Things improved in the 1980s, when the city rebuilt itself with a vast, modernized port, a new science and technology business park and the arrival of the high-speed TGV train line from Paris. Because the city has focused more on industrial growth than historic preservation, there are few historic sites in Marseille relative to its population and size.

Potpourri

In the 1970s, ship remains from the third century were found in Vieux Port.

Many influences from Africa are prevalent in Marseille, as seen in the spice and craft shops that feature items from the continent.

Marseille is known for its bouillabaisse (fish soup), which is always fresh and tasty.

La Marseillaise, the French national anthem, was actually written in Strasbourg by a person who was from the Franche-Compte region.

Marseille has hosted the filming of a number of Hollywood blockbusters, including The French Connection and The Bourne Identity.

Location

The busy cruise ship port in Marseille's East Harbor, at the Place de la Joliette, is officially known as La Port Autonome de Marseille. The modern passenger facilities include public restrooms, a gift shop, a cafe and an information kiosk. Additionally, funding from three cruise lines and the French government has enabled the port to expand its capacity by enlarging and adding a new cruise terminal and parking lot. Phone 04-9139-4000. http://www.marseille-port.fr.

Although the port is only a 20-minute walk from the center of Marseille, it's not pedestrian-friendly. To get into town, take the metro (the Joliette station is right outside the terminal), taxis or the shuttle service to and from the Vieux Port.

Shore Excursions