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Malta may not be big, and it may not have the breathtaking scenery of other Mediterranean destinations, but the lovely group of islands exudes the kind of quiet charm that attracts repeat visitors.

Picture deep-blue bays with brightly painted fishing boats and medieval cities with honey-colored stone buildings. A mix of cultures from Rome to Britain has influenced these five little islands over the centuries, so you'll find Italian baroque architecture and an English accent combined with the Maltese gusto for life. Add good restaurants, friendly people and the remains of an ancient culture, and you'll begin to understand Malta's appeal.

Geography

History

Archaeologists believe that that the first permanent settlers arrived on Malta from Sicily around 5000 BC. The first Neolithic temples were constructed around 3600 BC, and for reasons still unknown, Neolithic building stopped around 2500 BC.

Strategically located in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, between Sicily and North Africa, Malta was often seen as a prize whose importance exceeded its size. It has been visited or invaded by every major civilization in the region. The Phoenicians established a sea-trading center between 800 BC and 480 BC, after which it fell under the control of the Carthaginians. In turn, Rome gained control of the islands in 218 BC.

When the Roman Empire split, Malta became part of the Byzantine Empire. Arabs from the North African Aghlabid dynasty captured Malta in 870 AD, followed by the Normans in 1090. In 1530, Holy Roman Emperor Charles V handed over Malta to the Knights of St. John, who had been forced from their headquarters on Rhodes a few years earlier. The knights fortified the Cottonera cities around the Grand Harbour as Malta rapidly became a frontline between European Christian forces and Ottoman Muslim forces.

The Great Siege of Malta took place in 1565, pitting a far greater number of Ottoman troops against the knights, Spanish soldiers and Maltese civilians. Malta held out, and the knights, aided by a great influx of donations from Europe, began refortifying and developing the islands. Work on a new capital, Valletta, began in 1566.

The knights' rule ended in 1798 when Napoleon, en route to Egypt, took control of the islands. The French period was short-lived, with the British taking control of Malta in 1800, eventually ruling it as a colony.

During World War II, Malta again endured a remarkable siege, thwarting Italian and German efforts to control the Mediterranean. Independence from the U.K. was gained in 1964, and Malta became a republic in 1974. In 2004, Malta joined the European Union, where it is the smallest member country but the one with the greatest population density. The move to the EU has helped strengthen Malta's economic and political standing.

Snapshot

Malta's main attractions are its many layers of history, Neolithic sites, Valletta and the Three Cities, museums, churches, diving and other watersports in clear waters, medieval Mdina (on the island of Malta) and Rabat (on the island of Gozo), caves, architecture, feast days, a distinctive local culture and language, and good food.

Malta will appeal to visitors who appreciate a combination of history, beautiful water and friendly, multilingual people, and who don't mind dry, rocky terrain. Malta is not for those who are bored by archaeological sites or who demand lush, tropical beaches.

Potpourri

Although it uses Roman script, the Maltese language is Semitic in origin. It's a mixture mostly of Arabic (the western North African variety) and Italian (Sicilian dialect). The Maltese alphabet has 29 characters, including a letter x that is pronounced sh.

Malta's brightly painted fishing boats, called luzzu, hark back to ancient traditions and contrast delightfully with the tawny tones of the rocks and buildings. The eyes that are often painted near the boats' prows are those of Osiris, an Egyptian god whom the Maltese believe protects mariners from evil spirits.

For centuries, people have used shallow salt pans cut into the soft coastal rock to catch the waves. The water then evaporates, leaving sea salt. A good place to see this is near Reqqa Point on the north coast of Gozo, where the piles of salt in their rock frames make an unusual sight.

During World War II, Malta became one of the most-bombed spots in the world, undergoing more than 1,200 Italian and German air raids. At first, the Maltese were defended by three rickety biplanes dubbed Faith, Hope and Charity. The nation's red-and-white flag features the George Cross, awarded by the British monarch to the islands' residents for their steadfast bravery in World War II.

The dome of St. Mary's Church in Mosta (on Malta) is one of Europe's largest. The church was also the site of the "miracle bomb." In 1942, a bomb pierced the dome during a Mass; more than 300 parishioners survived when the explosive failed to go off. Visitors can see the now-defused bomb and the spot in the dome where it entered.

You may see pumpkins on roofs in various cities. They are placed there to ripen for soup.

Trotting races (where the jockey rides in a two-wheeled cart behind the horse) are popular in the winter.

Malta's historic architecture and natural scenic backdrops have made it a favorite movie location for many Hollywood directors. Blockbusters such as Alexander, Gladiator, Troy and The Count of Monte Cristo have all been filmed there. Certain scenes from Midnight Express and Munich were filmed there, too.

The organization of the Knights of St. John, which arrived on Malta in 1530, still exists today as a philanthropic organization. Members assist in calamities worldwide and are still building hospitals as they have done for more than 900 years.

When it comes to voting, Malta consistently has one of the highest turnout rates of democratic nations.

Location

The picturesque Grand Harbour serves as Malta's cruise-ship port. The passenger terminal is located at the Valletta Waterfront, a development that includes several restaurants, shops and tourist facilities in tastefully refurbished 18th-century dock warehouses. http://www.vallettawaterfront.com.

The center of Valletta is just a 15-minute walk away but it's mostly uphill. Taxis and buses are generally available. There are also horse-drawn carriages waiting outside the terminal.

Shore Excursions