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Lithuania has done away with many of the drab remnants of its Soviet past, and it's been spiffing up the old buildings that represent its earlier history. In Vilnius, the capital, hundreds of grand old baroque buildings have been artfully renovated into well-appointed hotels, minimalls and cafes. This has attracted foreigners and their capital, resulting in talk of Vilnius as the new Prague.

Despite all the shiny facades, prosperity is a long way off, and average Lithuanians still struggle to make ends meet. In the countryside, life goes on pretty much unchanged. Much work is still needed on both the infrastructure and service standard fronts, but the low prices and growth of low-cost flights are significant drivers.

Lithuania is more agricultural than the other Baltic nations, which gives it a slower pace and more charm. In rural areas in the south, horses are still the preferred mode of transport. Although the nation is intensely Roman Catholic, there are still traces of pre-Christian religions influencing life in the countryside, where elaborate wooden sculptures of ragana (witches) and barzdukais (gnomes) are almost as common as crosses.

The country's attractions include far more than old-world charm. In Vilnius, visitors can expect Western standards of service at many places but at a fraction of the cost of more traditional and well-traveled tourist destinations. For young people, there is much to do and see. The Baltics are aiming to become fashion and cultural trendsetters in the years to come, and the country boasts several exciting nightlife spots. The city is even becoming a popular destination for bachelor and bachelorette parties.

Geography

History

Lithuania once ruled an empire that extended from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea. Lithuania's leader married into the Polish royal family in the 1300s, and the resulting alliance enabled the two countries to control much of eastern Europe. It also allowed Christianity to penetrate Lithuania's pagan tribes, with most people converting by the early 1400s. (Lithuania was one of the last countries in Europe to adopt Christianity.)

Through the centuries, however, the country gradually lost territory in wars with Russia, Sweden and Prussia (which became Germany). It eventually disappeared into the Russian Empire, only to re-emerge in 1918 when it again became an independent state. It was annexed once again in 1940 (along with its neighbors) by the Soviet Union.

After a brief spell of occupation by the Nazis, five decades of harsh Soviet rule followed, characterized by the deportations of thousands of dissidents and ordinary citizens, industrialization and the immigration of tens of thousands of ethnic Russians, Ukrainians and other Slavs. The annexation of Lithuania was never recognized by many noncommunist countries. In 1990, Lithuania made its second declaration of independence in the 20th century. The last Russian troops left in 1993.

Lithuania then carried out the most rapid privatization of state-owned companies in the Baltics. It attracted large-scale foreign investment and joined NATO in 2004. As a new member of the European Union, the economy has grown, but much work is still to be done. Increased foreign investment and boosted tourism numbers are two major governmental targets.

Snapshot

Lithuania's main attractions are historical and cultural sites, friendly people, folk art and music, the cities of Vilnius and Kaunas, and the Baltic coast from Nida to Klaipeda.

The Lithuanian countryside is not for those who demand deluxe accommodations or glitzy nightlife, but Vilnius has plentiful luxury accommodations and a lively after-hours scene.

Potpourri

The National Song Festival (Dainu Svente) is the big cultural event in Lithuania. It takes place every four years and involves hundreds of musical events uniting the Baltic nations.

The Vilnius Hitchhiking Club is a dues-paying organization dedicated to getting a free ride. The club meets regularly to discuss hitchhiking tips and strategy, share stories and hold competitions (quickest pick-up, longest ride and so on). Although hitchhiking is not recommended, those determined to hitch their way through Lithuania should attend one of the club's meetings.

Lithuania's Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant, 90 mi/145 km northeast of Vilnius, has two of the largest Chernobyl-type reactors in the world. Although it produced more than 80% of the nation's electricity, the country agreed to close it as part of the concessions for joining the European Union.

Don't be surprised to see local bridges crowded with festively dressed people. During the summer, weddings are conducted in the churches on Saturday, assembly-line fashion; after, the couples head to local bridges. Local lore says that a couple will enjoy good luck if the groom carries the bride over seven bridges on their wedding day.

Many Lithuanians who were forced to live under Soviet control revere the late U.S. rock musician Frank Zappa for his antiestablishment views. There's a bust of Zappa in Vilnius.

Although Lithuania is often described as a country of Northern Europe, the geographical center of Europe is close to Vilnius. The "culprit" is the large European part of Russia, which shifts the center that far to the east.

A millionaire mushroom-pickling tycoon has constructed the world's most controversial theme park—Stalin World—74 mi/120 km southwest of Vilnius, near Druskininkai, in the teeth of criticism from relatives of the thousands murdered, deported, tortured or oppressed by the Soviet regime. The park (also known as Grutas Park), circled by barbed wire and manned guard towers, is a sculpture museum dedicated to works glorifying the Soviet leaders.

Lithuania is a basketball hot spot. Many of the best players of past Soviet Olympic teams were Lithuanian. Several Lithuanians went on to professional careers in the U.S. The sport got its start there when a Lithuanian who had emigrated to the U.S. returned home as a volunteer pilot for the Lithuanian army in 1920 and introduced the sport to his countrymen.

Lithuanian is the most archaic Indo-European language and one of the oldest languages in the world still in use. It keeps all seven of the Indo-European inflections and, like Latvian, is one of the only modern languages related to Sanskrit.

The Jurate and Kastytis Statue in Palanga commemorates a legend about the creation of amber, which is fossilized tree resin. The story holds that when Jurate, the daughter of a sea god, fell in love with a common fisherman, Kastytis, her father became furious. Fleeing the wrath of the deity, the lovers hid in an underground amber palace. The father found them and blasted the palace with thunder and lightning, burying the couple. It's said that the amber fragments from that long-ago tragedy still wash up on shore.