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If Libya's spectacular Roman ruins were located anywhere else in the world, they would be thronged with tourists. The impressive ancient monuments and cities—in equally impressive seaside locations—offer the timeless splendor and tranquility of the desert, and the warm climate.

But for most travelers, the ruins might as well be on the moon. Because of the pro-democracy uprising against Col. Moammar Gadhafi that began in early 2011 and subsequent civil war, many areas of the country are unavailable to visitors because of travel restrictions.

Geography

History

Libya was ancient even when the Romans ruled it. Prior to the arrival of the Romans, Phoenicians and their successors, the Carthaginians, colonized the western portions of the country while the Greeks ruled the eastern areas. Rome conquered both and, in turn, lost the territory to the Vandals, who swept in from northern Europe via Spain. Byzantine, Arab, Ottoman, Italian, British and French rule followed until the nation obtained independence in 1951.

Even though ruins remain from the many previous cultures, the most lasting imprints on the culture have been from the original Berbers and the more recent Arabs. Berbers, who settled the land in prehistoric times, still make up 15% of the population, and the Arabs, who arrived in AD 711, gave their religion, Islam, to the land. Practically everyone (97%) is Muslim, and the Arabic language and Islamic culture dominate.

U.S. involvement with Libya dates from the 1790s and 1800s, when Barbary (Berber) pirates raided American ships and enslaved the crews, leading to the creation of the U.S. Navy to launch punitive expeditions. The next significant involvement with the West came in 1911, when Italy wrested control of Libya from the Ottoman Empire. Libya remained Italy's colony until World War II, when the British chased out the Italians and their German allies. British (and French) administration ended in 1951, when Libya, led by King Idris I, became the first African country to gain independence under U.N. auspices. But the new nation, then one of the world's poorest, did not gain true economic self-sufficiency until 1959, when oil was discovered.

Ten years later, the monarchy was overthrown in a coup headed by Gadhafi, then a 27-year-old junior officer. For many years Gadhafi enjoyed popularity because the Libyan standard of living was been raised significantly since Qaddafi seized power—and possibly because dissenters can receive a death sentence. But the Arab Spring spread to Libya and rebels soon challenged the leader, leading to months of fighting between loyalists and those looking for change. The eventually led to a NATO-led no-fly zone and ultimately, to Gadhafi’s death in October 2011, when he was captured and shot in Sirte.

Popular support for many years allowed the regime to pursue its eccentric foreign policies (which have included a 20-year war with neighboring Chad, persistent tensions with Egypt and other North African neighbors, and the support of anti-Western, anti-Israeli and even anti-Arab terrorism). However, its increasing domestic problems and foreign condemnation seems to have moderated its belligerence. In 1999, U.N. sanctions on Libya were lifted when Qaddafi turned over two Libyans implicated in the bombing of Pan Am Flight 103 over Lockerbie, Scotland, for trial at the International Court of Justice in The Hague, Netherlands. Qaddafi also condemned the September 2001 terrorist attacks in the U.S.

In perhaps another attempt to improve relations with Europe and the U.S., Libya announced in December 2003 that it was abandoning any programs that could lead to the creation of weapons of mass destruction. The nuclear watchdog arm of the United Nations quickly began to inspect the country's nuclear sites. The declaration is thought by many observers to be an attempt by Qaddafi to bolster the country's flagging economy. Nevertheless, it made an impression on U.S. officials. In February 2004, they lifted a ban on Americans traveling to Libya. The U.S. State Department re-enacted the ban in 2011.

Since 2012, Libya has been engaged in ongoing civil war. Travel is not recommended.

Snapshot

Libya's foremost attractions include desert culture and scenery (in and around Ghadames, Germa and Ghat), beaches, mountains, and archaeological and historic sites (particularly Leptis Magna and Sabratha).

Libya will appeal to tolerant travelers who are seeking to learn more about desert culture, ancient history and a contemporary Arab and Berber society. Although travel restrictions imposed both by other countries and by Libya itself have been lifted or relaxed, a trip to Libya still requires more advanced planning, paperwork and expense than some other North African countries. Visitors must stay within the travel limits imposed by the military. Don't go if you don't have experience traveling in developing countries, if you demand first-class accommodations and service, will be bored without lots of nightlife options, or if you feel uncomfortable in cultures very different from your own.

Potpourri

Qaddafi funds an international award for human rights, which he bestows annually on causes he deems worthy. A Bosnian children's group and Nation of Islam leader Louis Farrakhan are listed among past winners.

Libya should be a mecca for bird-watchers, as the country is a stopping point for many migratory species en route from the Southern to Northern Hemispheres.

The world's highest recorded temperature was 136.4 F/58 C in Al'Aziziya.

Libyan women are among the most liberated in Arab countries. Most urban women choose not to cover their hair. Many senior scientists and academics are women.

The color green is conspicuously evident throughout the country. As well as being a favored color in Islam (in addition to white), green is also the color of the Libyan revolution. The national flag is plain green, and ordinary Libyans have painted doors, shop fronts, vehicle license plates and curbstones with the color.

The Roman emperor Septimius Severus (AD 193-211), born in what is now Libya, was once greeted too familiarly by a man from his hometown. Severus beat the man with a club while a herald proclaimed, "Let no plebeian embrace a legate of the Roman people with impunity." The word severe comes from the Latin severus.

Prior to the first century AD, horses, not camels, were used by Libyans. Libyans participated in the earliest Olympics, often winning horse-racing events.

The Sahara, which occupies Libya's interior, is far from being all sand. It is mostly a dry land of tropical shrubs interspersed with areas of rock and sand dunes.

Perhaps you've already seen a part of Leptis Magna without knowing it. Hundreds of columns were sent to France by order of Louis XIV and recycled in palaces at Versailles and Paris. Additional columns and capitals were carted off to England in the early 1800s, where they were either used to create romantic "ruins" or in museums. The Ottomans also transferred some of the ancient building materials to Istanbul, where they can be seen in museums and palaces today.