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Visiting Cyprus is a little like ordering mezes, or appetizers, at one of the island's cafes. With mezes, you get several small, tasty servings of the island's traditional foods. And with a visit to Cyprus, you get a tantalizing taste of what both Greece and Turkey have to offer: sunny Mediterranean beaches, stunning rocky coastlines, charming villages, ruins of ancient civilizations, intriguing museums and distinctive local cultures.

You also get a taste of the divisions between the two countries. The island of Cyprus remains divided by a bitter territorial dispute between its ethnic Greeks, living in the southern Greek region, and its ethnic Turks, living in the north, encouraged by their respective ancestral states. If you spend some time getting to know Cypriots, it won't be long before you learn of the injustices they or their families have suffered as a result of the conflicts between the two communities. Although there have been no open hostilities for decades, the division of Cyprus continues to be a pressing issue that the United Nations is trying very hard to resolve, particularly now that Greek Cyprus is a member of the European Union—something which Turkey wants very much for itself.

While tensions between the two groups ebb and flow, visitors receive only the warmest of welcomes from both sides. Chances are, when you sit down at a table in a neighborhood taverna, you'll be joined by the establishment's owner. Philoxenia—friendship toward a guest—is the rule everywhere on the island.

Geography

Cyprus sits in the easternmost corner of the Mediterranean Sea. It's located just south of Turkey, west of Syria and Lebanon and considerably north of Egypt and Israel.

The island was formed by an enormous volcanic eruption at the point where the Asian and African geologic plates met under the ocean. The eruption is responsible for the two main mountain ranges, the Troodos Mountains in the central part of the island, and the Kyrenia Range, which runs parallel to the northern coast.

In the south, the mountains slope gently away into rolling hills and coastal plains, where there are highly developed areas such as Limassol, Larnaca, Ayia Napa and Paphos, the four main resort areas. Larnaca and Ayia Napa, to the east, are flatter, hotter and drier than the west. The hills behind Limassol, the island's main port, are used for grape cultivation and fields of dusty, silvery olive trees, whereas beyond Paphos, in the far west, bananas are grown. The coastal strip is densely populated, but just one mile inland the holiday homes give way to scrub-covered, rolling countryside and pine forests in the Troodos mountains.

At the very far west of the Republic of Cyprus, the Akamas Peninsula is a national park, home to rare species such as griffon vultures, several rare orchid species, and green and loggerhead turtles.

The north is far less developed, although with a similar landscape—typically Middle Eastern, with dry hills, olive trees, dusty trails and small, isolated villages, all under the backdrop of the spectacular, rugged Kyrenia Mountains.

Cyprus is not especially known for its stunning beaches, although there are actually many small golden-sand beaches and stone beaches. Ayia Napa in the east has long stretches of soft sand, which get very crowded in July and August, as well as dozens of small secluded sand-beach coves dotting the coastline. Larnaca's beachfront is quite developed and stunning, lined with bars, restaurants and a broad promenade. In Limassol, the beaches are narrow but the quality of the hotels and their lavish gardens makes up for this. Neither is Paphos blessed with spectacular beaches, although the sea is warm and clean and some of the coastal scenery breathtaking, with tall cliffs and sea caves.

The southern two-thirds of the island makes up the internationally-recognized nation of the Republic of Cyprus (Greek Cyprus), and the northern third is controlled by Turkish Cyprus (TRNC), which is not officially recognized by any countries except Turkey. The U.N.'s 112-mi-/180-km-long Green Line, which divides the island, cuts through the shared capital, Nicosia.

History

The island nation of Cyprus is at the junction of Europe, Asia and Africa, and the world's great conquering empires—from the Phoenicians, Assyrians, Greeks and Romans to the Crusaders, Venetians, Ottoman Turks and British—all ruled there at one time or another. Despite all these influences, Cyprus has retained its essential character. Its coastal cities (Paphos and Limassol in the south, and Famagusta and Kyrenia in the north) are not only charming but also rich in tradition, myth and story. It was in Cyprus that Cicero philosophized, Othello agonized, St. Paul was berated and Aphrodite was created.

One can only hope that the current divisions do not become a tragic part of this rich heritage. The intercommunal strife has resulted in the political division of the island into the (Greek) Republic of Cyprus in the south and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. (Turkey is the only nation to recognize Northern Cyprus as a state.)

Leading up to the division were years of tension and occasional violence between the ethnic Greeks who governed the island and the ethnic Turkish minority. When Greece's military junta made a move to annex Cyprus in 1974, Turkey sent forces to prevent that from happening. The result was a division that left about a third of the land in Turkish hands (in 1983, the Turkish community unilaterally declared independence).

The situation since then has been at a stalemate, although restrictions on movement and contact between the two communities were loosened significantly in 2003. The Green Line, which slices the island in half, is open at nine separate points for crossing, and people, vehicles and goods move between the two sides with relative ease (including both locals and tourists).

In preparation for Greek Cyprus' entrance into the EU, the United Nations tried to broker an agreement to unify Cyprus with a referendum in April 2004. Although the referendum was embraced by voters on the Turkish side, it was overwhelmingly rejected by Greek Cypriots, leaving the island divided. Greek Cyprus joined the EU in May 2004. Greek Cypriots continue to oppose reunification; in the May 2006 elections, they backed the ruling coalition party, endorsing its opposition to a united Cyprus.

In 2008, The Republic of Cyprus changed its currency from the Cyprus pound to the euro, reducing their currency strength. This caused local wages to massively drop in value. Turkish Cyprus (TRNC) uses the Turkish lira.

When Greek Cyprus joined the EU, there were noticeable differences in life on the island. Locals claim that prices of everyday goods went up, while wages dropped. The boom in foreign ownership of property has also continued, as it is less difficult for nonresidents to buy a home. Some Cypriots are getting rich from the property market, but the environment is under considerable pressure in some areas because of land development. Overall, the Cypriot economy has remained stable, with a steady increase

Snapshot

Cyprus' main attractions are ancient Greek and Roman historical and archaeological sites, Byzantine art and architecture, modern Turkish and Greek culture, beaches, stunning rocky coastlines, a short skiing season, mountain scenery, hiking and spa resorts.

Cyprus will appeal to travelers who are already in the Middle East or Europe and want to spend time on a beach, enjoy hiking and nature, or like to visit historic sites, but haven't been to Greece or Turkey. Travelers who have already seen the Greek islands or the Turkish coast may be unimpressed with Cyprus (it's a subdued version of those destinations). Nonetheless, the island is not without charm and can make a pleasant stopover if you're traveling by ferry between Greece and points in the Middle East.

Potpourri

After the fall of the Berlin Wall, Nicosia became the only divided capital city in the world.

In Greek Cyprus, the word for stranger (xenos) also means guest, providing linguistic evidence of Cyprus' warm hospitality.

Gambling is illegal in the Republic of Cyprus but allowed in Northern Cyprus, which has become a gambling center, though not yet a gambling hot spot. Many Turkish casinos are moving to Northern Cyprus—there are more than 20, most of them near Kyrenia. Despite the boom in openings, most of the casinos are only half-full: European jet-setters still favor Monte Carlo and other gambling locales.

The Green Line, the border that cuts the island in two, gets its name from the color of ink used on military maps.

The island is rich in copper. The ancient Greek words for Cyprus and copper are the same, though it's uncertain which came first.

The Karpas Peninsula, a long finger of sharp, mountainous land in northeastern Turkish-occupied Cyprus, is an undeveloped and beautiful area seldom visited by tourists.

A local myth states that anyone who bathes in the sea under a full moon at the Rock of Aphrodite will achieve eternal youth.

Most people on the Greek side speak some English—Cyprus was a British colony from 1878 to 1960.

Several famous popular musicians have connections to Cyprus. Singer George Michael was born to Cypriot parents in London, and the father of musician Yusef Islam (formerly known as Cat Stevens) was from Cyprus. Australian singer Peter Andre has close family on the island.

Location

Both Larnaca and Limassol are cruise ship calls in Cyprus, although Limassol receives more vessels. There are passenger facilities at both ports, also used by ferries taking people to the Middle East. Both terminals have duty free shops, banking facilities, pay phones and tourist information.

Cyprus is keen to develop as a bigger cruise hub in the Mediterranean and is enjoying increasing success. More cruise lines venture through the Suez Canal to the Red Sea and the Gulf, both areas that were not considered viable for cruising but are once again attracting interest.

Shore Excursions

Typical shore excursions include day trips to Nicosia, the capital; visits to wine-growing villages in the mountains, such as Omodhos; day trips to Paphos to see the Tombs of the Kings and the Roman mosaics; tours of the Limassol area, visiting the Old Town, Kolossi Castle, the Curium amphitheatre and the shops; and soft adventure trips to the Akamas Peninsula, north of Paphos, for Jeep safaris and gentle hiking. Cruise lines also offer excursions into the Troodos Mountains, with lunch in a mountain restaurant.

Shore excursions do not cross the Green Line into the Turkish-occupied north.