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American Samoans might like football and fast food, but that doesn't mean that their lives are fast-paced.

The U.S. influence on these beautiful islands has meant a greater demand for consumer goods and some of the accoutrements of the good life, U.S.-style. But underlying the superficial changes is a solid base of strong Samoan traditions, known as the Fa'a Samoa, or Samoan Way, which they share with their cousins in the nearby independent nation of Samoa. It means that life still moves at a relaxed, leisurely pace. In fact, the Fa'a Samoa is one of the islands' greatest assets.

Although off the modern tourist track, the islands are astonishingly beautiful, too. The two coral atolls and five volcanic islands that make up American Samoa are lush and green, with sharp peaks rising along the coastline. They're not our favorite islands in the South Pacific, but they can be a good introduction to the region.

Geography

American Samoa lies in the middle of the South Pacific, just east of the International Date Line. To the west is the independent nation of Samoa. The two Samoas share a common culture but are separate states.

The only U.S. territory south of the equator, American Samoa consists of five main islands: Tutuila (the largest and site of the capital, Pago Pago), Ta'u, Ofu, Olosega and Aunu'u. A handful of small, uninhabited islets are also part of the territory. Rain forests cover much of the islands, but there are spectacular beaches and rugged mountains, too.

History

It's generally thought that present-day Samoans are descended from Polynesians who migrated from Southeast Asia more than 3,000 years ago. Ancient Samoans' navigational skills were as keen as the Vikings', and early European visitors received a Viking-like reception: Shortly after landing on the northern coast of Tutuila in 1787, the French expedition was attacked by Samoan warriors. At least 12 explorers and 39 Samoans were killed, and the battle site is now known as Massacre Bay.

European traders and whaling ships continued to visit the islands, and friendly relations were eventually established. By the early 1800s, Christian missionaries had arrived and were having great success converting Samoans. (Samoan creation stories are similar to those in the Bible, and a Samoan god, Nafanua, is said to have predicted the arrival of a new religion. Given these conditions, it's not surprising that many Samoans quickly accepted Christianity.)

The U.S. negotiated a deal with local chiefs for the right to use Pago Pago harbor in 1872, and by 1904 had assumed control of all of the islands that now constitute American Samoa. Still, Samoan life didn't change much until the 1960s. Fearing that American Samoans would follow the lead of newly independent Western Samoa (a former German colony), the U.S. swooped into Tutuila and built roads, schools, an airport and other elements of modern infrastructure. American Samoa remains an unincorporated territory of the U.S. Since 1977, it has elected its own governor and local legislature (known as the Fono), as well as one nonvoting representative in Congress. American Samoans are U.S. nationals, not U.S. citizens, and cannot vote in U.S. presidential elections.

The economy is supported primarily by two aging tuna canneries built beside Pago Pago Harbour in the 1950s. Since two-thirds of all American Samoas now live in the U.S., the majority of cannery workers hail from independent Samoa. Changes in U.S. immigration law after the terrorist attacks of 11 September 2001, require that citizens of Samoa have passports and visas before entering American Samoa, which prompted the Samoan government to retaliate by requiring U.S. nationals (but not U.S. citizens) to have entry permits before entering Samoa. Strained relations between the two eased somewhat with the opening of a Samoan consulate in Pago Pago.

Snapshot

American Samoa's chief attractions include beautiful coastal and mountain scenery, beaches, relaxation, hiking and indigenous culture.

These islands are lovely, but their appeal is primarily to those who will be comforted—not annoyed—by the constant reminders of the U.S. presence. This is not the place for travelers who want to deeply immerse themselves in traditional Polynesian life.

Potpourri

Although there are islands other than Tutuila and the Manu'a Group, they're impossible to visit (most are uninhabited wildlife preserves). With unreliable air and shipping services, even the Manu'a Group should be considered off-limits except for adventurous travelers without time constraints.

Early explorers got the name papalagi, or sky bursters, because Samoans believed they came from the space between the sky and the sea. The name, shortened to palagi, is still used to refer to visitors with white skin, and travelers can expect to hear the word shouted at them in greeting—in a friendly rather than a hostile way.

Tongan fruit bats live in American Samoa National Park. Nicknamed "flying foxes," these graceful, soaring mammals can have wingspans up to 3 ft/1 m.

The National Park of American Samoa is the only U.S. national park where the federal government does not own the land. In keeping with Samoan custom of communal land ownership, the National Park Service leased the property rather than buying it.

American Samoa is the most southerly of all lands under U.S. sovereignty.

Samoans hold most local government positions, including that of governor.

In October locals scoop up palolo (sea worm eggs)—some say they taste like caviar.

Location

Shore Excursions