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As South Pacific paradises go, Vanuatu is neither predictable nor placid. This Y-shaped archipelago of small islands, located directly over the Pacific Ring of Fire, has live volcanoes and daring vine jumpers, and it happens to be located in a cyclone corridor. It also has an extraordinary collection of exotic rituals and taboos, thanks to the French, British, native Melanesians, Chinese and Vietnamese, all of whom have contributed their own flavors to Vanuatu's ethnic patchwork quilt.

If you're looking for a relaxed, accommodating island paradise that caters to your every whim, Vanuatu may not be what you're looking for. But for adventurous travelers intrigued by its beautiful, tumultuous topography and its stubbornly traditional culture, Vanuatu does offer a glimpse of the South Pacific as it can rarely be experienced.

Geography

History

This chain of islands was settled by the Melanesians at least 4,000 years ago. Spanish explorers were the first Europeans to come across the islands (in 1606), but they thought they had discovered part of a large southern continent (they even called it Tierra Austrialis del Espiritu Santo). The French Captain Bougainville visited briefly, and Britain's Captain Cook arrived in 1774, renaming the chain New Hebrides.

From 1906 until the islands gained independence in 1980, they were ruled by the British and French Condominium (known locally as the Pandemonium), a not-entirely-efficient system with two separate governments. An ongoing legacy of this period is the division between English- and French-speaking areas. Adjacent villages may be separated by this cultural divide as schools, churches, businesses and government offices operate in different languages. Though the colonial system is long gone, some areas are completely French oriented, others totally English.

Since the local population (known as "ni-Vanuatu") wrested the country from European control, the islands have gone back to their traditional lifestyle—which embodies a fascinating system of kinship, rituals and taboos. The country's attempts to modernize have not always had happy results. Revelations of corruption involving government ministers have led to the collapse of several administrations, and the political infighting continues. Francophone groups led by ex-Prime Minister Serge Vohor and anglophone parties formerly led by the Rev. Walter Lini (now under the control of Lini's brother, Ham Lini) remain deeply divided. Vohor managed to stitch together a ruling coalition in July 2004, but in December 2004 he was ousted and replaced as prime minister by Ham Lini.

Snapshot

The chief attractions of Vanuatu are fabulous diving, native culture, beaches, active volcanoes, deep-sea fishing, sailing, cruises, good food, beautiful scenery, and rides in glass-bottomed boats and outrigger canoes.

These islands are a good destination for those who are already in the area, who are a bit adventurous and who are interested in traditional island cultures. They will be disappointing to anyone requiring a wide variety of nightlife—it can be pretty quiet on the islands after dark.

Potpourri

A number of aircraft crashed into the dense jungle of Espiritu Santo Island during World War II. One plane, belonging to Colonel "Pappy" Boyton's Black Sheep Squadron, was not discovered until 1994.

French, English and Bislama (a form of pidgin and the most common language on Vanuatu) are all official languages there.

Vanuatu is considered the most cyclone-prone country in the South Pacific. The storm season runs January-April.

The word vanuatu means "our land."

Vanuatu claims the only underwater post office in the world. Divers and snorklers can mail special waterproof postcards at a post office in the Hideaway Island marine sanctuary near Port Vila.

For the adventurous, head for a nakamal (kava bar) and experience what it's like to down a kava drink. Kava drinks are made from the root of a plant related to the pepper tree. It has been described as the world's only legal narcotic. The intoxicant relaxes you, in some cases to the point of sleep. Kava bars are popular among locals, as well as English- and French-speaking residents.

Vanuatu, as befits its status as a tax haven, has no income, corporate or estate taxes and does not participate in tax treaties.

With some foreign support, a man named Jimmy Stevens attempted to declare Espiritu Santo independent in 1980. When troops from Papua New Guinea arrived (by invitation), he was arrested in his village headquarters in Vanafo, which may now be visited on package tours.

Diving in Vanuatu reveals caves, a sunken ocean liner, a 19th-century three-masted sailing ship, a flying boat, recently sunken vessels and spectacular coral reefs.

The majority of visitors to Vanuatu are from Australia.

Long lunch hours are the norm in Vanuatu.

Try to attend a local dance performance, if possible. The "custom" dances depict various legends or stories.