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In the Solomons, they talk about "The Islands of Pride," a reference not only to their country's natural beauty, but also to the people's contributions to the Allied cause in World War II. Some of the war's bloodiest battles took place in this idyllic setting of glimmering lagoons, orchid-laden jungles, thundering waterfalls, forested peaks and thatched-hut villages. The islanders, like the Allied and Japanese forces, suffered dearly during the war.

Unfortunately, from 1999 to 2003 the political situation in the Solomon Islands deteriorated into open civil war as rival tribes on Guadalcanal Island engaged in low-intensity warfare. The troubles devastated the economy and displaced entire communities. The good news is that beginning in July 2003, an Australian-led military intervention force rounded up most of the troublemakers and confiscated illegal weapons, making Solomon Islands a safe place to visit once again. However, the local hotel and transportation facilities still require upgrading, so this country should be considered an adventure destination for experienced travelers rather than a vacation spot for ordinary tourists.

Geography

History

The Solomon Islands were originally settled by immigrants from present-day New Guinea. The first Europeans didn't arrive until 1568, when Spanish explorer Alvaro de Mendana de Neyra went to the area to track down an Incan legend about "islands of gold" 600 leagues west of Peru. Always the promoter, Mendana dubbed the island group "King Solomon's Islands," evoking the image of the gold mines of the ancient king. After finding little gold and suffering a few disastrous encounters with the local people, the Spanish abandoned the chain. The Solomons were left alone for the next 200 years, partially because Mendana had placed the islands east of their actual location—they were effectively lost to the Western world.

In 1767, Captain Philip Carteret located the islands again. It was not until 1893, however, that the British declared a protectorate over the central part of the group. They did so mostly to counter German advances in New Guinea. But they were also reacting to appeals from Protestant missionaries: The islands had gained a reputation as a perilous place when islanders, angry at the depredations of slave traders known as "blackbirders," retaliated by cooking and eating interlopers, including missionaries and shipwrecked sailors. As late as 1927, a tax-collecting party led by a British district officer was wiped out by tribesmen. Solomon Islanders remained under British control (with the exception of World War II) until they regained their independence in 1978.

Following independence, the Solomons became a Commonwealth parliamentary democracy, nominally ruled by a governor-general who represents the British monarch. Decision-making power lies in the hands of the prime minister and the 50-member national parliament, although in recent years corruption and mismanagement have reduced the government to a shambles. Civil war broke out in 1999 when militants on Guadalcanal tried to drive out migrants from neighboring Malaita Island. The Malaitians counterattacked in 2000, taking over Honiara, the country's capital. Peace returned after the arrival of the Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands (RAMSI) in 2003, and Australia has contributed substantial development aid to help the country get back on its feet.

Snapshot

The islands' foremost attractions are friendly people, jungle walks, canoeing, fishing, scuba diving, snorkeling, beautiful isolated beaches, history, panpipe music that imitates birdsong, splendid wood carvings, World War II battle sites and traditional culture.

The Solomon Islands are a fascinating destination for well-seasoned travelers who want to get off the beaten path and learn more about island cultures. They're great for diving, too (in addition to the reefs and colorful marine life, there are many submerged World War II planes and shipwrecks accessible to divers). However, travelers who are simply looking for a well-programmed South Pacific beach holiday might want to consider other, equally nice spots that are a lot less expensive to reach.

Potpourri

On Saturday, local teams compete in soccer matches all around the country, and they're great fun to watch.

Environmental groups are helping villagers in the Marovo Lagoon area and elsewhere set up small ecotourism resorts as an alternative to allowing their forests to be cut for a meager royalty.

We owe the swimming stroke known as the crawl to a resident of tiny Roviana Island, across the Roviana Lagoon from New Georgia Island. Australians, who later popularized the stroke, learned the crawl from islander Alick Wickham when he traveled to Sydney in 1911 at the age of 12 and defeated his Aussie competitors at a swimming competition.

Recent studies have shown the ocean temperature around Solomon Islands to be among the warmest in the world (85 F/30 C).

The islands offer reef, boat, wall, wreck, photography and coral diving.

Some residents of the islands have facial tattoos.

The shark is sacred to many on the islands, so don't make light of the belief. Local fishermen believe they can summon sharks for help if they fall overboard while out at sea. People also believe that sharks will attack Westerners who swim in the bays. We can say from personal experience that this is not always true, but be aware that sharks can be a hazard.

Local residents range from nearly white skinned to blue-black, and some have red or blond hair. Melanesia, the region of the Pacific where the Solomons lie, gets its name from the dark-skinned residents.

Author James Michener described the islands, even during World War II, as "passionately wonderful."