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Over the years, Saba (pronounced SAY-buh) has become one of our favorite Caribbean islands, but it's definitely not for those seeking the typical Caribbean beach vacation. This tiny island—little more than a dormant volcano, really—looks uninhabited, and it almost is.

The 1,500 people who call Saba home go only by their first name, and they'll tell you that their island is so small you'll even know the names of all the dogs before you leave. Sabans are hardy, creative and friendly. We highly recommend that you spend some time talking to them to gain an appreciation of their way of life.

Although Saba has no traffic lights, it does have three jail cells for those who may have had a few too many Heinekens (called Dutch tea in Saban slang), one gas station, one road, four towns, four street sweepers and a mountain aptly named Mount Scenery.

Mandated by law, gingerbread-style houses on Saba are painted white with red, sloping roofs and green shutters. If not painted to these specifications, the government will repaint or issue a fine.

Beach lovers may want to think twice about a vacation on Saba: Sandy shores are almost nonexistent on this steep, rocky isle. There is one strand of gray volcanic sand that appears from spring until early winter and then disappears with the tide.

But when it comes to scuba diving and snorkeling, Saba can hold its own and then some. Beneath Saban waters, steep mountains ascend from the abyss to within 80 ft/24 m of the surface, making the diving extraordinary. In fact, Saba is rated among the best places in the Caribbean for diving. Underwater walls and pinnacles are covered with coral, sea fans and sponges. There are tunnels, overhangs and caves to explore, too.

Aside from diving, walking, visiting and low-key shopping, there's not a lot to do on Saba, but it's a nice place to do nothing. In general, plan on taking it easy when you visit.

Geography

Saba lies in the northeastern Caribbean, south of St. Maarten. Fort Bay is on the southern coast of the 5-sq-mi/13-sq-km island. The capital, The Bottom (pop. 350), is a mile or so to the north. Windwardside, only a bit larger (but the main tourist destination). is slightly northeast, and Hell's Gate (so named because it was the beginning of a hellish walk over precipitous terrain) is in the northern part of Saba. All are connected by a twisting, one-lane road called, simply, The Road (it's the only one).

On this "mountain that meets the sea," there are four villages: Bottom, Windwardside, St. Johns and Hell's Gate.

History

The Carib people may once have inhabited Saba, but they were long gone by the time the first European settlers arrived in the 1600s. The island's mountain topography and sheer-rock coastline kept most settlers away—except for pirates and a few adventurous pioneers.

Possession rotated among the English, French, Spanish and Dutch for many years, until the Dutch hold on the island was solidified in 1816. With little land suitable for farming and a dangerous coast that discourages ships from visiting, Saba was never very prosperous. The lack of large-scale plantations accounts for the relatively small number of residents of African heritage on the island.

Today, the racial mix between black and white residents is roughly equal—unusual for the Caribbean. Saba also had a high percentage of English-speaking settlers, many of them Scottish and Irish, which is why English remains the primary (though not official) language of the island. Dutch is the official language.

The Road was built in 1943, the first car arrived in 1947 and the first plane landed in 1959.

Snapshot

The main attractions of Saba are volcanic steep mountainous terrain, charming small inns and restaurants, dramatic views, excellent diving and snorkeling, Saban lace, friendly people, and peace and quiet.

Those who want to get off the beaten Caribbean track and enjoy a quiet island with friendly people and good snorkeling and scuba diving will have a great time on Saba. Those interested in the beach and/or vibrant nightlife should look elsewhere.

Potpourri

At a few sites around Saba, divers can feel the heat escaping from thermal vents in the sea floor.

Saba's Mount Scenery is the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

The women of the island scrupulously guard their recipes for Saba Spice, a distinctive liquor that most folks believe contains fennel, cinnamon and 151-proof rum, among other ingredients. The particular flavors of Saba Spice depend on how much of each spice is used and how long they're fermented with the rum. We suggest trying as many varieties as possible.

With such a small permanent population, the death of a member of the community is significant. When a Saban dies, church bells in all four towns toll the age of the deceased.

A crisis gripped Saba a few years ago. In the midst of the July Carnival celebration, the island ran out of Heineken beer.

In the guest book of the Saba Museum, you can see the signature of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, who visited the island on 22 March 1978.

On Saba, each village has a bulletin board that lists rooms for rent, parties and other public notices.

The runway at Saba's airport is one of the shortest commercial landing strips in the world (1,312 ft/400 m)—just slightly longer than the decks of some aircraft carriers.

Most Sabans go by first names only because two-thirds of them are Johnsons or Hassells.

The technique used in creating Saban lace was brought to the island more than 100 years ago. An islander learned it at her Venezuelan convent school.

Saba's name may be derived from the Carib word siba (rock).

Saba is known as the "Unspoiled Queen" because of its preserved natural beauty.

Movie fans may recognize Saba as Skull Island in the original King Kong from 1933.

Location

Your ship will most likely anchor off Fort Bay, on the southern side of Saba. Passengers are taken by tender to L.A.I. Chance Pier. (A few smaller ships dock right at the pier.) There are a couple of dive shops and a restaurant nearby, but Fort Bay is basically a pier. Taxi drivers will be there to greet you, as will a representative of the Saba Tourist Office.

From Fort Bay, it's a couple of miles to Windwardside, the main tourist town—which is 1,200 ft/365 m above sea level. The island's tourist office is in Windwardside.