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7-Nights Cape Cod, The Islands and Newport - Land Journey

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Cape Cod, The Islands and Newport Quintessentially New England, Cape Cod captivates with a legacy of coastal delights, distinctively appetizing with traditional clambakes, whale watches thoroughly exhilarating, shore towns colonial in nature and historically rich and lighthouses that s...

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Overview

Introduction

Nantucket, Massachusetts, is at the confluence of two bodies of water, 30 mi/48 km out from the mainland. The north side faces the gentler waters of Nantucket Sound, its main harbor nestled within the protection of a barrier beach. Facing south and up around to the northwest are the more temperamental waters of the wild Atlantic Ocean.

At Nantucket's northwestern peak, Great Point is the long swath of sand and stunning beach that ends where the two waters meet, tangling together in frothy, dangerous tumult. For years, the island's position demanded a life dependent on the sea, a legacy that continues to shape its fortune.

Visitors to Nantucket are drawn by the island's rich and storied history and its distinct culture, shaped and beautifully preserved by its isolated location at sea. The entire island is a National Historic District because of its wealth of architecture dating back to the 18th century. There are more than 800 buildings on Nantucket that predate the Civil War, a distinction that even historic Boston can't surpass.

In addition to the lure of history, it is the power of the ocean that draws people to Nantucket. The beaches are arguably some of the finest on the East Coast, offering more than 80 mi/128 km of unspoiled ocean shoreline. One is free to swim, walk or explore 10 public beaches. Boaters and fishermen go to take advantage of the bounty of the island's waters. Perhaps most of all, despite the crowds, Nantucket island is the embodiment of the faraway, of a place that seems difficult to reach and greatly removed from almost anywhere. There is a sense of rugged independence among islanders that is not often felt elsewhere.

Preservation land protects about 45% of Nantucket from development, always with more land under consideration. This is a very fragile place. And although its popularity with visitors taxes the island's resources, most of the tens of thousands who visit each year respect and support its natural and historical treasures.

The 14-mi/23-km island, easily explored on foot and bicycle, has plenty of secluded beaches thick with bayberry, beach plum and heather. Most of them are open and easily accessible to the public. Spend at least a full day on Nantucket—more, if possible—to allow plenty of time for lying on the beaches, meeting the people and, because it's part of historic Massachusetts, visiting the significant sites scattered around the island. The island's alluring fine dining and shopping are also a prime draw.

Must See or Do

Sights—Climb the steps of Great Point Light for the view; go to a Stargazing Night at the Maria Mitchell Association to see the stars through powerful telescopes.

Museums—The skeleton of a sperm whale at the Nantucket Whaling Museum, as well as exhibits that illustrate the dangers—and wealth—of the whaling industry; the intriguing collection of artifacts and engaging tours detailing the evolution of maritime rescue efforts at the Nantucket Shipwreck and Lifesaving Museum.

Memorable Meals—Watching the chefs prepare inventive cuisine from a counter seat at Black-Eyed Susan's; award-winning quahog chowder at The Seagrille; The Summer House Restaurant, just to dress up and feel like part of a Great Gatsby scene; a sunset picnic at the beach in Madaket; housemade ice cream at The Juice Bar.

Late Night—Dancing and karaoke at The Rose & Crown; live music at The Chicken Box most nights in the summer.

Walks—The Sconset Bluff Walk is as beautiful as it is enjoyable; a downtown walking tour with a Nantucket Historical Association guide provides an island overview perfect for travelers with limited time.

Especially for Kids—The aquarium at the Maria Mitchell Association; Nantucket Community Sailing for lessons and camps; a whale- or seal-watching boat trip with Shearwater Excursions.

Geography

Nantucket is dominated by the presence of its surrounding waters, Nantucket Sound and the Atlantic Ocean, and its inland geography reflects that influence. Within that space are cranberry bogs, haunting fog-laden moors, expanses of wild beach roses and heath, and miles/kilometers of uninterrupted, dune-backed beaches. It truly is an island of small natural wonders. Indeed, approximately one-third of America's heathlands (moors) are on Nantucket. As a result of the island's curvaceous shape, there are more than 80 mi/128 km of shoreline, despite the fact that the island itself is a mere 3 mi/4 km at its widest and 14 mi/22 km long.

Nantucket Town is settled on the edge of a large harbor, protected nicely from the rages of the open ocean. It sits close to the center of the island, on the north side. Visitors aboard the ferries arrive there, and today, just as in the 18th century, Nantucket Town is the center of activity and the commercial hub. Streets are often narrow (watch for the cobblestones, laid out in the 1830s to prevent heavy carts filled with whale oil from sinking in the mud) and jut off in all directions. Generally, Main Street runs east to west.

Roads and bike paths stretch out from the town center—due east to the village of Siasconset on the ocean side and due west to Madaket, a favored sunset-watching spot. Areas outside of town are much quieter, with less commercial influence, though there are plenty of pricey vacation homes spread throughout. The island's manageable size makes it an easy place to cover by bicycle, the preferred way to get around in summer.

History

Named by the native Wampanoags, Nantucket means "faraway land," a description that defines more than just its location. For its first white settlers in 1659, it was a way of life, as well as a geographical reality.

Nantucket was part of a land grant given to Thomas Mayhew, whose intention was to bring Christianity to the native population, which he did for a time. But the island was too remote for his tastes, so when a group of Massachusetts Bay Colony residents offered to buy the island, Mayhew agreed, selling all but a tiny parcel for 30 pounds sterling and two beaver hats. The original purchasers had partners; in time, more shares of the island were sold in order to attract a well-balanced and multiskilled group of settlers.

The settlers wanted to be free from the harsh judgment and strict rule of the Massachusetts colony's Puritans, and it wasn't long before a majority of the islanders had embraced Quakerism. The faith emphasized a strong, hard work ethic, neutrality in war, equality for women and a fervent opposition to slavery. Islanders banned slavery in 1773, and Nantucket was home to a good number of free Blacks and escaped slaves.

The island has always relied on the sea for its prosperity. The Quaker work ethic and the business of whaling combined to make the little faraway island of Nantucket a prosperous world capital in the industry for more than a century. During the golden years of 1818-49, 88 Nantucket-based whaling ships circled the globe in search of whales. While fishermen were chasing the sea's biggest catch, their wives sustained their families by opening shops along Petticoat Row, now Nantucket's thriving commercial Centre Street.

Extraordinary wealth from whaling built the grand homes in Nantucket Town, each filled with goods from a world market. The town's dependency on whaling led to near-ruin when a combination of factors caused the industry's collapse. In 1846, the lumber- and whale-oil-fueled Great Fire devastated 36 acres/15 hectares in the center of town. By 1849, petroleum and kerosene were cheaper alternatives to whale oil, a sand bar blocked the passage of large, heavy whaling ships into the harbor, and sailors were jumping ship to join the fevered California gold rush. A great economic slump ensued that would last until well after the Civil War; many historians say it was this depression that preserved both the great mansions and the more humble homes of the islanders.

From the success of the Industrial Revolution, a leisure class was born. By the 1870s, the island was a favorite retreat for the wealthy in pursuit of the healthful, beneficial pleasures of saltwater bathing and rejuvenating sea air. The notion hasn't changed—Nantucket remains a favorite place for those who seek the very same remedies.

Potpourri

Nantucket is the only place in the country that is a town, a county and an island, with the same name for all three.

Cranberry bogs, like those found on Nantucket, are flooded in winter for protection of the plants and in autumn for the harvest.

Herman Melville traveled to Nantucket a year after publishing Moby Dick to meet with Captain George Pollard Jr., who was captain of the doomed voyage of the whaleship Essex.

Inspired by his father, who operated a dry goods store in the space now occupied by Murray's Toggery, Nantucket native Rowland Hussey Macy embarked on several failed retail attempts before establishing a location at 14th Street and Sixth Avenue in New York City. From US$11.06 in first-day sales, Macy's has grown to become the most famous department store in the U.S.

A bunker was built at the former Tom Nevers Naval Facility on Nantucket's southern shore in case former U.S. President John F. Kennedy needed to evacuate from his family compound on the mainland in Hyannis during a nuclear attack.

Actor Jerry Stiller, actress Anne Meara and their son, Ben Stiller, are regular Nantucket vacationers who lend their talents in support of the annual Nantucket Film Festival held each June.