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Overview

Introduction

Manila, Philippines, is a city of contradictions. Residents often complain about the pollution, garbage and lack of adequate infrastructure, but many choose to live in the city for its upbeat tempo and laid-back atmosphere. The sight of beggars confirms the country's economic struggles, but a few minutes in the shopping complexes show happy-go-lucky people who try to find a day's pleasure, regardless of what tomorrow may bring. A rising middle class is fueling growth among consumers, both domestic and international.

Despite Manila's vulnerable economic conditions, the mall culture has thrived. At an average of four stories tall and spanning entire blocks, malls are the landmark of even the poorest district—and the pride and joy of the most affluent neighborhoods. Filipinos have made the malls of Makati, Ortigas and Manila their second home. Many go to them to watch a movie, dine at a restaurant or just walk around in the air-conditioned environment. Sunday Masses are even held in malls.

Manila is a city where people live for the moment. The heritage sites in Intramuros, the old bombed city of Manila, have been transformed into speakeasies, government buildings and public schools. The development of government museums is slow—residents are too caught up in present-day life to secure the past.

It is this carefree spirit that marks the way of life in Manila: Work can be put off for tomorrow. The city appears crazy, chaotic and even incomprehensible to some visitors, but it is these same elements that will allow them to let their hair down and unwind. It also helps that foreign currency goes a long way in Manila, offering access to convenience and luxury beyond what many tourists experience in other cities.

Must See or Do

Sights—A ferry ride to Corregidor Island or around the bay; a calesa ride around the old fortress of Intramuros; The Manila American Cemetery and Memorial; sunset over Manila Bay.

Museums—The Ayala Museum; Casa Manila; Fort Santiago; the National Museum.

Memorable Meals—Chateau 1771; great service and authentic dishes at Sentro; the atmosphere at Dencio's; Chimara's neo-vegan cuisine at Greenbelt 3.

Late Night—The Eastwood City bar strip; Greenbelt 2 bar strip on a Friday or Saturday night; Malate's Remedios Circle, surrounded by bars and restaurants; Tomas Morate Avenue's rows of restaurants for a late-night meal.

Walks—Various walking tours of Carlos Celdran; a stroll through Rizal Park; visits to the Manila Cathedral and San Agustin Church in Intramuros.

Especially for Kids—Hands-on activities at the Ayala Museum; the Science Discovery Center, ice skating rink or IMAX theater at SM Mall of Asia.

Geography

Manila is actually made up of 13 cities and four municipalities that President Ferdinand Marcos placed under one urban umbrella in the 1970s. Many of the municipalities were granted city status and are now bustling beehives of commerce and industry.

The Pasig River connects the Laguna de Bay at the south with Manila Bay and the South China Sea. The river was once crystal clear with lilies adorning it, but it is now dull brown.

Manila lies on the west coast of the Philippine island of Luzon, the largest of the archipelago's three major land bodies (the other two are Visayas and Mindanao). From north to south, Navotas, Manila proper (the capital during the Spanish era), Pasay City, Paranaque City and Las Pinas lie along Manila Bay. Old Manila is defined by a breathtaking view of the bay, the presidential palace and other government buildings, as well as the landmarks of Rizal Park and Intramuros. Pier 15, where most foreign ships dock, is found in the south harbor.

To the east of Manila proper are the three business districts, which can be reached on a 30-minute to hour-long ride: Mandaluyong City, Pasig City and Makati. Quezon City, north of Mandaluyong City, is a hub for businesses and government offices. However, the country's main financial district can be found in Makati City. There are two stock exchanges, one in Makati and one in Ortigas.

Farther south is Muntinlupa City, the rising district of southern Manila, thanks to corporations that have established themselves there and high-end malls such as the Ayala Alabang Town Center.

History

Maynila, as the first Malayan settlers called it, started out as a thriving trading center—merchants from ancient China, Japan and Thailand bartered goods there. Aristocrats from the nearby island of Borneo settled in Maynila and transformed it into a city protected by strong wooden palisades. The area remained protected by local rulers until the Spanish arrived in the 16th century. Raja Sulayman, a fierce Maynilan ruler, was able to thwart the first Spanish attempts to take over the land, but Spain's empire eventually won out.

In 1791, Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi completed his conquest of the Philippines and made Maynila—renamed Manila—the capital. The wooden palisades gave way to a stone-walled fortress protected by a battery of guns. The fortress became known as Intramuros, and only the most powerful, wealthy and purebred Spanish were allowed to live inside its walls. In the late 19th century, Filipinos, encouraged and inspired by a growing middle class of intellectuals, tried to shake off Spanish rule. The attempt failed, and Jose Rizal—the leader of the uprising—was executed publicly in Bagumbayan (now known as Luneta).

Under terms of the Treaty of Paris, Spain ceded the Philippines to the U.S. in 1898, and the islands remained a territory until 1946. Under U.S. control, some of Manila's most important buildings were constructed, including the Philippine General Hospital. The roads were improved, and an educational system was established.

During World War II, U.S. forces gave up Manila to hold their ground in Bataan where they, along with Filipino troops, fell to the Japanese. Liberation came in 1944 with the return of Gen. Douglas McArthur. But the infighting left Manila devastated. Entire buildings were razed, and the fleeing Japanese killed many residents.

From Manila's independence through the early 1970s, the country enjoyed a thriving democracy and economy. The atmosphere quickly changed when Ferdinand Marcos declared martial law in 1972, citing the Communist insurgency as a reason. Though the dictator was responsible for building many of the edifices and roads in the capital, he also institutionalized corruption in all systems of government, and the modern country is still recovering from the effects. After Marcos' main challenger, Benigno Aquino, was assassinated in 1983, popular opinion solidified behind his widow, Corazon Aquino, and she was elected in 1986. Marcos and his wife, Imelda, were forced to flee the Philippines.

Aquino was popular but not an effective leader: Her term was marked by a number of coup attempts. Ensuing leaders made some progress in alleviating the country's endemic corruption and poverty, but progress went downhill, and in 2001 President Joseph Estrada was forced from office in a massive nonviolent street protest known as the Second EDSA Revolution by those who accused him of embezzling millions. His successor, Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, was able to partially restore investment confidence in the country, but her presidency was marred by several corruption allegations. Benigno Aquino III, son of Corazon and Benigno Sr., was elected to a six-year term as president in May 2010. Rodrigo Duterte was elected in 2016 as the first president from Mindanao.

Potpourri

In addition to the architectural splendor of the San Agustin Church in Intramuros, the remains of Manila's founder, Lopez de Legazpi, are also buried there together with other historical figures.

The Philippines has unique fabrics that are made from pineapple or banana fibers. Dita Sandico Ong, a local fashion designer in Manila, has popularized the use of such indigenous materials.

The University of Santo Tomas has a press that is one of the oldest in the world. The UST Press was founded in 1593.

Manila Bay is known not only for its sunset, but it was also the area where the famous Battle of Manila was fought in 1898 between the Spaniards and the Americans and Filipinos.

Manila's 12 million citizens occupy an area of 15 sq mi/39 sq km, making it the most densely populated city in the world.

Manila is actually a sprawling conglomeration of 12 cities and five municipalities, each an autonomous political entity but functioning as one city called Metro Manila.

Manila was originally named Ginto, which means the Land of the Gold. The name Manila comes from a mangrove plant with white star-shaped flowers called nilad. In the past, these plants grew abundantly along the shores of the Pasig River and Manila Bay, and so the city become known as may nilad, "the place where nilad grows".

In 1948, Quezon City was declared the national capital of the new Republic of the Philippines, thus robbing Manila of the title it had held since 1595. In 1976, President Ferdinand Marcos returned the national capital to Manila.

Location

Shore Excursions

Typical shore excursions include a tour around Manila Bay, a boat trip to the battle site of Corregidor or visits to Subic Bay. Small cruise ships usually dock at the CCP Terminal, and if you are going on your own, some caution is recommended. It's better to go with an organized tour group. There is a docking station for cruises around Manila Bay located beside the Shrine of Jesus Church across from the Mall of Asia.

Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information. You can also ask to be connected with a leading hotel's concierge and inquire about tour groups that you can join.