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Like so many countries in Africa, tiny Guinea-Bissau is clinging to a fragile peace between factions that not long ago were at each other's throats. In the late 1990s, a civil war between the army and the government displaced hundreds of thousands of people and accomplished nothing. Even if those factions continue to coexist peacefully, Guinea-Bissau will have a long way to go before it can attract more than the most-adventurous tourists.

The most appealing part of Guinea-Bissau (pronounced geenee-bee-SAOW) is just offshore: the Bijagos Archipelago. The mainland is thick with jungle, and its cities are decaying. But the Bijagos Islands, with lots of sandy beaches and fresh seafood, retain a simplicity and ease—life has remained virtually unchanged in the past 100 years. For travelers, this can be a mixed blessing because the modern world also includes such conveniences as hot water, electricity and air-conditioning. But for those looking to truly escape modern living, the Bijagos can be a perfect hideaway.

Geography

History

Guinea-Bissau's colonial period began in the 1450s, about 300 years before the rest of the region. That era left an especially deep impression on the country's present-day character. As significant as the timing was the colonizing power: Portugal. Most of the rest of the region was controlled by France or Britain.

The Portuguese first exported gold and slaves, but even after these "resources" could no longer be exploited, Portugal was reluctant to let go of its colony. Nor did it bother to develop the nation's infrastructure or to educate the people: When independence finally came in 1974, only 2% of the population were literate, and the country's only industry was a brewery.

For most residents, independence brought little change. The new government embraced both capitalism and, later, communism, though neither was able to stimulate the economy. Multiparty elections were not held until 1994.

In 1998, an army coup sent the country into civil war. A peace accord was signed in 1999, but subsequent coup attempts kept the situation tense. In 2005, presidential elections placed former military ruler Joao Gernardo Vieira in power.

Guinea-Bissau still has severe economic problems and is at times unable to pay its military and civil servants. Needless to say, tourism is a low priority for today's leaders of Guinea-Bissau.

Snapshot

Bijagos Islands, beaches, rare (and rarely seen) saltwater hippos, manatees, mangroves, birds and West African culture are the primary attractions of Guinea-Bissau.

Guinea-Bissau is only for those who have traveled extensively in developing countries, who don't mind inconveniences and who want to say they've been everywhere. Don't go if you're simply curious about West Africa—there are better destinations in the region.

Potpourri

The kora is a 21-stringed instrument made from an animal-skin-covered gourd, with fishing lines for strings. The most popular kora performer is Kaba Mane. Guinea-Bissau also has some nice guitar music, based on Portuguese and Spanish styles with an African influence.

More than 20 tribes make up the population, with Balante, Fulani, Manjaco and Malinke making up the largest ethnic groups. Each tribe has its own language, but everyone understands Crioulo (Kriolu), a Portuguese-African language. Most visitors find the people relaxed and hospitable.

In the Bijagos Islands, women own most of the property, choose their husbands and control inheritances.

Guinea-Bissau's most famous director, Flora Gomes, films on location and recruits villagers as actors and extras. Mortu Nega (Death Denied), about the Guinea-Bissau revolution, was the director's first film and was well received in Europe. The Fellini-style Udju Azul di Yonta (The Blue Eyes of Yonta) is a continuation of and commentary on the first film and has received more international acclaim.

The baobab tree is a symbol of peace in Guinea-Bissau.

The cashew tree bears a red or yellow fruit as well as the famed nut, which has its own gray casing. Try the sweet and juicy fruit, but beware of the nut: It's poisonous and must be processed to make it edible.

It is estimated that less than half of the people can read and write.