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Travelers to Cambodia should best proceed directly to Angkor to explore a selection of the fabulous Khmer temples there. After years of external and internal war, Cambodia now has a tenuous measure of stability.

Cambodia still faces severe economic difficulties (international aid is helping to build roads and improve health care), political infighting (that sometimes turns violent) and danger from undetonated bombs (which minesweepers are seeking out). The country seems stable enough for visits to Angkor Wat and many of Cambodia's other ancient sites that highlight its long cultural history.

Phnom Penh is a city revitalized, and the intriguing capital has enough of interest to hold visitors for several days. It is also an important business destination, and is becoming a popular port of call for Mekong River cruises. Sihanoukville, four hours south of Phnom Penh, offers decent beaches and a sleepy atmosphere. For the more adventurous, there are the remote and hilly provinces of Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri, close to the borders with Laos and Vietnam.

The recent discovery of substantial oil and natural gas reserves will likely improve Cambodia's overall economic position.

Geography

History

Given the terrible events of the 20th century, it's difficult to comprehend the glory of Cambodia's ancient past: Cambodia was once the most powerful nation in the region. Khmers from China migrated to the area in prehistoric times and, by the first century, had built a mighty Hindu state. Cambodia's power continued to grow until the empire extended from the Bay of Bengal to the South China Sea. The nation's decline began with increasing waves of foreign intervention from the 1500s to the 1800s. The French arrived last, in the mid-1800s, offering Cambodia protection from other outsiders. French protection quickly turned into control, and France ruled Cambodia until 1953. Once independent, the country became the Kingdom of Cambodia and Norodom Sihanouk became king.

The country tried to steer a course of neutrality during the Vietnam War, but that stance was not respected: The North Vietnamese army used Cambodian territory for supply lines and bases. In response, American troops carpet-bombed the eastern half of the country. In 1970, a U.S.-backed coup toppled King Sihanouk and destabilized the country even further. In 1975, two weeks before the fall of South Vietnam, the murderous Khmer Rouge regime came to power under Solath Sar, also known as Pol Pot. The ensuing four years were the most horrific in Cambodian history.

Under the leadership of Pol Pot and his henchmen, Cambodians were marched out of the cities and forced to work in collective farms. Educated citizens were massacred, and the calendar was started at Year Zero. Estimates vary, but about 1.7 million people are thought to have been massacred under the regime, and many more died of hunger and disease. In 1978, Vietnam invaded and overthrew the Khmer Rouge, but in the minds of many Cambodians, the Vietnamese long overstayed their welcome. When Hanoi reduced its presence in the late 1980s, civil war again broke out: Several groups, including the Khmer Rouge, continued to vie for domination. The United Nations finally worked out a peace settlement, and elections were held in 1993. Norodom Sihanouk was once again crowned king. Pol Pot escaped justice and died at age 73 in 1998. Shortly before he died, he was held prisoner by former Khmer Rouge members who accused him of betraying the movement he had once led.

Former Khmer Rouge soldier Hun Sen led a successful coup against Sihanouk, but the fragile coalition government under Hun Sen and Prince Norodom Ranariddh (one of Sihanouk's sons) fell apart in 1997. Elections in 1998 (which eventually led to a coalition government with Hun Sen as prime minister) and again in July 2003 were marred by sometimes-fatal violence. Hun Sen failed to gain the majority needed to form a new government, but formed a coalition and, within a year, became the undisputed prime minister once again, a position he has held ever since. In October 2004, King Sihanouk, citing ill health, abdicated in favor of his son Prince Norodom Sihamouni. In this politically unstable climate, political gatherings, demonstrations, political party offices and military compounds should be avoided.

While the situation has improved considerably, this is still a third world country with great poverty. Tourism numbers are improving (especially from Asian travelers).

Snapshot

The chief attractions of Cambodia are the ancient temples of Angkor, historic buildings, Southeast Asian culture and jungle scenery.

Adventurous travelers interested in Southeast Asian history (both ancient and modern) will enjoy Cambodia. Those who cannot tolerate hot and humid conditions, schedule changes or the sight of severe poverty might not enjoy a visit to the country.

Potpourri

If you tune in to the government radio station in Cambodia, you may hear songs written by Prime Minister Hun Sen. Hun Sen has written more than 100 songs, which are subsequently set to music by one of his aides.

Cambodia, and Angkor in particular, has become a favored site for Hollywood filmmakers: blockbusters include Tomb Raider, starring Angelina Jolie, Matt Dillon's City of Ghosts and Transformers 3: Dark Side of the Moon.

It is thought that between 4 million and 6 million land mines still lie undiscovered in the countryside, posing a daily threat to famers. More than 40,000 Cambodians have been maimed by land mines.

Cambodia's national animal is a wild ox called the kouprey. Unfortunately, its last recorded sighting was in 1983. Many researchers fear it is now extinct, which the Cambodian government avidly denies.

Anyone planning to visit Cambodia should consider first seeing the films The Killing Fields and Swimming to Cambodia.

The Silver Pagoda, part of the Royal Palace compound in Phnom Penh, has a floor covered with 5,000 silver tiles. Among the many treasures housed there is a solid-gold Buddha weighing 198 lbs/90 kg and encrusted with 9,584 diamonds.

The Khmer Rouge regime (1975-79) forced nearly all urban residents into rural areas to live as peasants. Literally millions died during this period, and even today, few urban areas have populations equal to those of the 1970 census.

The rain forest is best seen in the Elephant Mountains in the south and the Cardamom Mountains in the southwest.

Cambodia is an extremely poor country: About 70% of the population doesn't have access to safe drinking water, and 85% is without electricity. The government is improving access to toilet facilities and building latrines for many who live in the countryside.

With its US$20 per day visitor's fee, Angkor brings in US$140 million per year to Cambodia, accounting for 10% of its gross national product.

Riverboats in the Mekong Delta have a set of eyes painted on the front of the boat, a tradition thought to scare off crocodiles.

Brightly colored pajamas are considered to be fashionable daywear in Cambodia (primarily for children).