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For most travelers, Jakarta, Indonesia, is either part of a business trip or a pit stop on the way to more popular tourist destinations such as Bali and Yogyakarta. In truth, most find little that makes them want to linger in Indonesia's capital: A large, crowded city on the island of Java, Jakarta evokes few beautiful or memorable images. One exception is the Gedung Kesenian Jakarta, the city's art building. Free Jakarta
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To appreciate this city, visitors need to seek out Jakarta's sights that invoke the historical heritage as a meeting place for East and West. These include the remnants of the Dutch colonial era and the old schooner harbor, Sunda Kelapa, still hard at work and looking much as it did in previous centuries.

Don't be surprised, though, if modern Jakarta begins to grow on you: Its jarring mix of trendy nightspots, teeming streets and occasional political demonstrations bespeaks a place where the present is unfolding in an exciting—if not always orderly—manner. The city's image is slowly changing, however, and Jakarta has many fine hotels, shopping malls and golf courses in and around the metropolitan area to entice visitors to stay a little longer.

Travelers to Indonesia should be aware that tsunamis and earthquakes are part of the travel equation. Both are unpredictable, but travel warnings from embassies come into force quickly in the unlikely event that they should occur.


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Jakarta


For most travelers, Jakarta, Indonesia, is either part of a business trip or a pit stop on the way to more popular tourist destinations such as Bali and Yogyakarta. In truth, most find little that makes them want to linger in Indonesia's capital: A large, crowded city on the island of Java, Jakarta evokes few beautiful or memorable images. One exception is the Gedung Kesenian Jakarta, the city's art building.

To appreciate this city, visitors need to seek out Jakarta's sights that invoke the historical heritage as a meeting place for East and West. These include the remnants of the Dutch colonial era and the old schooner harbor, Sunda Kelapa, still hard at work and looking much as it did in previous centuries.

Don't be surprised, though, if modern Jakarta begins to grow on you: Its jarring mix of trendy nightspots, teeming streets and occasional political demonstrations bespeaks a place where the present is unfolding in an exciting—if not always orderly—manner. The city's image is slowly changing, however, and Jakarta has many fine hotels, shopping malls and golf courses in and around the metropolitan area to entice visitors to stay a little longer.

Because of the natural disasters that hit Jakarta and much of Indonesia in recent years, we advise that you call ahead or check with your travel agent about possible event cancellations and venue closings before you travel to Jakarta. Travelers to Indondesia should be aware that tsunamis and earthquakes are part of the travel equation. Both are unpredictable, but travel warnings from embassies come into force quickly in the unlikely event that they should occur.

Must See or Do

Sights—Mesjid Istiglal (the Grand Mosque); Taman Fatahillah (the old city square); Medan Merdeka; Jalan Surabaya Antique Market; Pelabuhan Sunda Kelapa (the harbor).

Museums—Museum Nasional (National Museum); Museum Sejarah Kota Jakarta (Jakarta History Museum); Museum Wayang (Puppet Museum); Museum Bahari (Maritime Museum).

Memorable Meals—An outstanding meal in a fascinating setting at Dapur Babah Elite; savor local cuisine in a beautifully restored colonial palace at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis; world-class fare and spectacular city views at Salt Grill at Altitude; creative, contemporary dining at SHY.

Late Night—A midnight snack at Cafe Batavia; the beer garden at Stark Bierhaus; catching a live act at the unpretentious Jaya Pub.

Especially for Kids—Taman Mini Indonesia Indah; Sea World at Taman Impian Jaya Ancol amusement park; miniature golf at Taman Safari at Bogor Puncak.

Geography

Jakarta sprawls over a large area, and coming in from the airport provides a good introduction to the city's layout. When the Gatot Subroto Toll Road (the principal route from the airport) reaches the Semanggi intersection, you'll get your first glimpse of the Golden Triangle—the precious real estate of skyscrapers and palatial homes known as Menteng and Kuningan.

Running north and south from Semanggi is Jalan Jenderal Sudirman, the main thoroughfare of the central business district. To the north it becomes Jalan Thamrin, a wide boulevard that ends at Merdeka Square, the administrative heart of the city. Farther north is Glodok, home to centuries-old Chinatown, which merges into the old city (Kota) at Fatahillah Square. Beyond that lies the historic Sunda Kelapa docklands and the modern port of Ancol. Going south on Jalan Jenderal Sudirman takes you to Kebayoran Baru, the former Dutch residential suburb, and the swanky residential districts of Kemang, Pondok Indah and Ciganjur.

History

Jakarta began in the 1300s as a settlement called Sunda Kelapa, the capital of the last Hindu kingdom in West Java. The Portuguese made their first contact with Java there in 1513, but before they could establish a colonial foothold, the city fell to the Muslim warrior Fatahillah. He renamed the city Jayakarta (Victorious City), which it remained until 1619, when the Dutch stormed the town and razed it to the ground.

A shoreline fortress named Batavia rose from the ashes, eventually becoming the capital of the Dutch East Indies. Dutch colonial rule fostered the racial and economic divisions that continue to influence Indonesian society.

During World War II, the Japanese army occupied Batavia, ending Dutch rule and renaming the city Jakarta. The Japanese allowed Indonesians to rule themselves for the very first time, and it was during this time that independence leaders Sukarno and Mohammad Hatta rose to prominence. After a four-year struggle with the Netherlands, Indonesia became a nation in 1949. Sukarno's flirtation with communism led to what's sometimes described as an abortive communist coup attempt. In the aftermath, Suharto rose from the chaos to rule Indonesia for 32 years.

Suharto's emphasis on ceaseless economic growth brought great prosperity to Jakarta and gave rise to the skyscrapers that dominate the modern city's skyline. But Suharto's power was broken by the economic crisis of 1997. He stepped down in 1998, and the country's first free elections in June 1999 saw the emergence of the democratic process. Today, together with a coalition of the four largest Islamic parties, the Democratic Party has a strong parliamentary majority, but civil unrest continues in some areas, particularly Aceh.

For a time, Indonesia had one of the fastest-growing economies in Southeast Asia, despite pressure on the economy from issues that affected its tourism industry. Unfortunately, decreased demand for exports and high inflation have threatened the country's decade of unprecedented economic growth. It's becoming increasingly clear that Indonesia's economic miracle was more of a mirage. Until the country rights its many structural problems, millions of Indonesians will remain out of work or underemployed; poverty continues to be a severe problem.

Potpourri

The bronze elephant displayed in front of Museum Nasional was a gift from King Chulalongkorn of Thailand. In return he received five train-car loads of statues from Borobodur.

Pengamen are the street-side buskers you'll see on most street corners earning their keep through music, though the performances often leave a lot to be desired.

You'll notice the sweet, pungent aroma of kretek cigarettes as soon as you're out of the airplane—there are more than 500 different brands of these clove cigarettes to choose from.

Wandering the alleys on any day of the week are jamu (traditional medicine) vendors. Supposedly, some 1,000 natural products go into making jamu, and it is used to treat everything from impotence to sore hands.

Many of Jakarta's greatest monuments are better known by their nicknames—the Spirit of Youth at the southern end of Jalan Sudirman is the Pizza Man, and the Welcome Statue outside Plaza Indonesia is known as Hansel and Gretel.

Always looking to make a dime, local children will offer their "umbrella services" to travelers when it rains. Tip them 3,000 Rp-5,000 Rp for their efforts.

Cycling is becoming an increasingly popular activity in Jakarta, and major streets regularly close for car-free Sundays.

Location

In recent years, a growing number of cruise ships have called in Jakarta on their way to Bali, although the port's poor infrastructure, bottlenecks and lack of facilities ensures most of them don't stay long.

To foster tourism, the government has committed to improving its woeful facilities and its safety record, although an ETA on these promises has yet to be determined.



Shore Excursions

The few cruise passengers who brave the chaos of the capital city usually congregate around Istiqlal Mosque, the old port of Sunda Kelapa and the historical attractions around Merdeka Square.




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