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Guinea is one of West Africa's better-kept secrets. Following its independence from France in 1958, it was isolated not only from European influence, but also from its African neighbors, and that was how the country's leaders wanted it. Free Guinea
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But in recent decades, Guinea has slowly begun to open up to the outside world, offering a rare glimpse of African life without a veneer of European culture or the corrupting influences of tourism. You'll find a wide variety of peoples, many of them farmers and herders, scattered across Guinea's plateaus, hills and valleys.
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Guinea is one of West Africa's better-kept secrets. Following its independence from France in 1958, it was isolated not only from European influence, but also from its African neighbors, and that was how the country's leaders wanted it.
But in recent decades, Guinea has slowly begun to open up to the outside world, offering a rare glimpse of African life without a veneer of European culture or the corrupting influences of tourism. You'll find a wide variety of peoples, many of them farmers and herders, scattered across Guinea's plateaus, hills and valleys.
Originally known as Jalonkadougou, the highlands of modern-day Guinea were once part of the Mali Empire. The descendants of the Mali rulers are known as Malinke. Later, Fulani immigrants arrived, bringing the teachings of Islam with them, and by the 18th century, Muslims had consolidated their power, forming the Kingdom of Fouta Djallon. They engaged in the slave trade with Arabs in the north and with Europeans on the coast. The French arrived in Guinea in 1849 and, taking advantage of factional strife, gained control and administered the area until independence in 1958. Although other former French colonies maintained strong ties with France, Guinea—led by strongman Sekou Toure—struck out on its own. "We prefer poverty in freedom to riches in slavery," Toure declared, and, following his own peculiar brand of socialism, he led Guinea from being one of the most prosperous African colonies to being one of the poorest countries in the world. What's more, Toure seemed to equate independence with detachment, and the nation became increasingly isolated.
Following Toure's death in 1984, a military regime led by Lansana Conte took over and made slow but steady progress in rebuilding the nation, and the country held its first multiparty elections in 1993. Economic progress has been negligible, however, despite the country's rich mineral deposits—bauxite, diamonds, uranium, gold and manganese—and fertile soil—on which rice, bananas and coffee are grown. Political progress also seems to be lacking: The European Union refused to appoint observers to Guinea's presidential elections held in December 2003; any real opposition to Conte's party, the Party for Unity and Progress (PUP), was forced out of the race. Though Conte maintained his reign, his days are thought to be numbered: The president is in debilitatingly poor health, and he refuses to groom a successor. An assassination attempt in January 2005 has heightened political tensions.
Guinea's chief attractions are beaches, markets, mountains and forests, ethnically diverse populations, and outstanding West African music and dance.
Guinea will appeal to experienced travelers who are interested in interacting with its open, welcoming people. Its poor infrastructure—notably roads, telecommunications and electricity—makes for rough traveling, and tourist facilities are lacking. Yet the country boasts some of the most stunning hikes and waterfalls, and its friendly people can lead to some fascinating cross-cultural exchanges.
The women of Guinea have played a significant role in the country's modern history. In 1977, women led a revolt against former dictator Sekou Toure's policy of banning market sales of farm produce. Women working in the markets rioted and killed the governors of three provinces. The first day of the revolt, 27 August, has since become a national holiday.
Kwame Ture, the militant U.S. black activist known as Stokely Carmichael, made his home in Guinea after leaving the U.S.
Many university-educated Guineans studied agricultural engineering, because it was virtually the only course of study that Sekou Toure allowed.
Because of its cultural blend, Guinea's dance and music are among the most vibrant in Africa.
Guinea was one of the premier producers of bananas in the world in 1960 (100,000 tons). Because of its disastrous economic policies, the country was able to harvest only 162 tons by 1982.
Guinea has about one-third of the world's bauxite (aluminum) deposits.
Sekou Toure was known as the Supreme Guide of the Revolution. He drove some 20% of Guineans into exile and imprisoned, tortured and starved thousands of others. During his reign, Conakry became notorious as a KGB base in Africa.
Les Amazones, an internationally acclaimed traditional drumming group, is made up entirely of women—though the djembe drum is traditionally a man's instrument.
Sore losers, the departing French yanked out lightbulbs and burned medicines when Guinea refused to join the French African Community upon independence in 1958. Overnight, Guinea was left without administrators, archives, development plans—and lightbulbs. Some would say the country has never recovered.
Every spring since the death of Sekou Toure, hundreds of Catholic pilgrims have walked the 90 mi/144 km from Conakry to Boffa, home of Guinea's first Catholic mission. The mission's current pastor, among 150 French clergyman expelled by Toure in the 1960s, returned to Guinea after the dictator's death.
Called the Water Castle of west Africa, Guinea claims the sources of four major rivers—the Niger, Mali, Gambia and Senegal, as well as many lesser ones.
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