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Marib is really two cities. The old town was the Queen of Sheba's capital, according to legend, and remained the chief city of the region for nearly a millennium. More than 2,900 years after the Queen's reign ended, Marib has become an oil-boom town. Its highlight for most visitors remains the much-ruined old section, which is full of ancient temples and palaces. Ghosts of the past reside in the Mahram Bilqis (stone pillar ruins of the royal palace) and the Queen of Sheba's Temple of Bilqis (the Temple of the Moon, which is covered with carved figures, heads and Arabic script). Also in the area is the Arwa Temple (pillars in the sand, just south of Old Marib) and the Marib Dam (said to be built by the first King of Sheba and reputed to be the first man-made dam in the world); its ruins show the excellent irrigation system that sustained a large kingdom until excessive water pressure caused the dam to crumble 2,200 years ago. Transportation through the area is by four-wheel-drive vehicle. 75 mi/120 km east of Sana'a.
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Overview

Introduction

Marib is really two cities. The old town was the Queen of Sheba's capital, according to legend, and remained the chief city of the region for nearly a millennium. More than 2,900 years after the Queen's reign ended, Marib has become an oil-boom town. Its highlight for most visitors remains the much-ruined old section, which is full of ancient temples and palaces. Ghosts of the past reside in the Mahram Bilqis (stone pillar ruins of the royal palace) and the Queen of Sheba's Temple of Bilqis (the Temple of the Moon, which is covered with carved figures, heads and Arabic script). Also in the area is the Arwa Temple (pillars in the sand, just south of Old Marib) and the Marib Dam (said to be built by the first King of Sheba and reputed to be the first man-made dam in the world); its ruins show the excellent irrigation system that sustained a large kingdom until excessive water pressure caused the dam to crumble 2,200 years ago. Transportation through the area is by four-wheel-drive vehicle. 75 mi/120 km east of Sana'a.

Overview

Introduction

Often overlooked, Maribor, Slovenia, is the country's second-largest city and a center of the wine industry. Located 50 mi/75 km northeast of Ljubljana, Maribor merits a stop if you're on your way to or from Vienna or visiting skiing resorts in the region, such as Pohorje. Also a university town, Maribor is known for its well-preserved Renaissance architecture.

Be sure to visit the district known as Lent, located down by the Drava River, to see the world's oldest growing grapevine that has produced grapes for more than 400 years. Also, stop at one of the riverside cafes to sample a glass of local wine or have a cup of sipek (rosehip) tea.

The section of Maribor known as Old Town is also worth a visit, starting at its main square—Glavni trg—where a monument to victims of the plague can be found. From there, you can easily explore Maribor by foot, as this district is reserved for pedestrians and limited auto traffic. Be sure to stop by the Cathedral of Maribor and the Church of St. John the Baptist just north of Glavni trg where you can climb the church tower for a striking view of the whole town.

Overview

Introduction

Paramaribo, Suriname's capital, is fascinating, with its parks, colorful buildings, gardens, houses built on stilts and friendly people. Stay there for at least two nights (three, if you're taking any day trips), even if it's just to sample the city's terrific restaurants, architecture and nightlife.

Start with a visit to the Central Market on the waterfront. You'll quickly discover that Paramaribo (or "Parbo" as many residents call it) is a wonderful mixture of the modern and primitive—watch the dugout canoes maneuver between oceangoing steamers. Also visit the Palmentuin (palm gardens) and the museum (Amerindian artifacts). Don't forget trips to Fort Zeelandia, the dozen or so casinos, the enormous all-wood Cathedral of Sts. Peter & Paul (one of the world's largest wooden buildings) and the Numismatich Museum.

On Sunday morning, head for Independence Square to watch the city's famous songbird competitions. In these events, two small birds (called twatwas) sit in adjacent cages while their owners record the number of times each bird sings in a 15-minute span. (It's more interesting than it sounds.)

If you're looking for a day trip, go to the Beracha Ve Shalom Synagogue, about a 30-minute drive from town, to see wood carvers (be prepared to pay some cash to photograph them) and, if possible, attend the voodoo ceremony in Neger Creek. Two-day trips up the Maroni River in a motorized dugout canoe are popular, as are longer expeditions to see the Bush Negroes (forest-dwelling descendants of escaped slaves) and Amerindian tribes of the same area.


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