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Overview

Introduction

The contrasts between old and new in the United Arab Emirates (U.A.E.) are not only dramatic—they're often deliberate. The leaders of this oil-rich nation, made up of seven emirates along the Persian Gulf, have succeeded in drawing tourists with new hotels and diversions that have made cities such as Dubai and Abu Dhabi global hotspots. But they have also maintained policies to conserve the country's traditional culture. As a result, you can easily maneuver between past and present in the U.A.E.: You can venture into the desert on a camel trek and then indulge in a new sport—sand skiing. Or you can bargain for carpets in a souk and then enjoy a round of golf on greens surrounded by sand.

The U.A.E. is a fascinating mix of bedouin life and international commerce. For those looking for a complete escape into desert exoticism, the country's major cities of Abu Dhabi and Dubai may be disappointing. At first glance, both cities look more like Houston than Tangier. Traces of the old bedouin and trading cultures remain in the U.A.E., but you may have to search for them.

In Dubai, historic old houses cooled by wind towers are surrounded by squeaky-clean office buildings overlooking Khor Dubai, the broad creek that bisects the city and fades out in the desert to the east. Lining the docks of the creek are dhows (traditional sailboats), whose distinctive curved prows haven't changed in centuries, although they're now more often driven by motors rather than by sails.

We have found the U.A.E. to be one of the most comfortable and pleasant places to travel in the Arab world, particularly for women, who may have a difficult time on their own in other Arab countries. It's a favorite resort for vacationers from more restrictive countries in the Middle East. However, take note that homosexual practices are prohibited in the U.A.E., and even public displays of affection between men and women are frowned upon and fined in some jurisdictions.

The U.A.E.'s beaches, oases, dunes and a smattering of interesting rock formations aren't as dramatic as the scenery elsewhere in the region, but the friendliness of the people is a big plus. There's always a lot going on, particularly in the way of sports or shopping.

Geography

The U.A.E. lies on a northeastern edge of the Arabian Peninsula and is bordered by Saudi Arabia to the south and west and Oman to the north and east. The country has coastlines on both the Persian Gulf and the Arabian Sea.

The Hajar Mountains run like a backbone through the U.A.E., with Hafeet near Al-Ain being the highest mountain at an elevation of 4,408 ft/1,340 m. As to be expected from a desert country, there is plenty of sand. Some parts of the desert have huge dune fields, though others are flat and featureless. Wadis (dry riverbeds) are found all around the Hajar Mountains.

History

The U.A.E. is situated in an ancient trading area. The Islamic influence that developed throughout central Asia had a strong impact on the region. When pirates became a serious problem in the early 1800s, the British signed an agreement to guarantee protection of the emirates in exchange for control over the region's foreign affairs. Both parties let the agreement lapse in 1971, which allowed for the formation of the current government structure. The U.A.E. consists of the seven former Trucial Sheikhdoms: Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Ras al-Khaimah, Sharjah and Umm Al Quwain. Individual sheikhs have autonomous control over the various emirates, but they act in concert in matters of foreign affairs, defense, economics and so on.

Prior to its independence, the country was pretty much undeveloped. Oil production began in the emirates only in 1958, in Abu Dhabi. Dubai started production 10 years later, followed by Sharjah and Ras al-Khaimah. Oil has not been found in the other emirates.

To offset the inevitable decline in oil production in the coming decades, leaders in Dubai and Abu Dhabi have developed ambitious ventures in commerce and tourism. Dubai, for example, hosts a number of international trade shows, is the location of the country's free port, Jebel Ali, and also boasts a major cruise port hub.

The U.A.E. has a surprisingly diverse population. Formerly nomadic desert people mix with seagoing traders, fishermen, and those in the petroleum industry and the growing commerce sector. The country shows strong Iranian and Indian influences, though it is predominantly Arab and Muslim in culture. Westerners may find it more liberal than most Arab countries, but it still observes Islamic tradition and protocol.

Snapshot

The main attractions in the U.A.E. include beaches, Arab culture, desert scenery, watersports, sand sports, horse and camel racing, shopping, mosques and historical sites.

The U.A.E. is a major hub for commerce in the Persian Gulf region and elsewhere. In the past, most travelers visited the U.A.E. on business, but its new beach resorts and other tourist facilities are world-class. The country is a good introduction to the Persian Gulf region and a pleasant place for a relaxing getaway. Don't go if you are looking primarily for spectacular scenery and exotic desert cultures.

Potpourri

The U.A.E. is big on breaking records. It's home to the tallest man-made structure in the world (the Burj Khalifa), the world's only seven-star hotel (the Burj Al Arab), the only Louvre to be built outside of Paris and the world's largest playground (Dubailand).

Most native residents of the U.A.E. practice the Muslim religion. They pray five times daily in mosques, located in nearly every neighborhood. Each mosque is equipped with loudspeakers that notify residents and passersby of the calls to prayer at dawn, midday, midafternoon, sunset and nightfall.

Shopping opportunities in Dubai begin as soon as you get off the plane. The Dubai Duty Free complex at Dubai International Airport was voted the world's best duty-free shop by the International Airline Passengers Association.

The U.A.E. has become a sanctuary for migrating birds. Inland from Dubai, where Khor Dubai turns into marshland, there are thousands of flamingos and other exotic birds that stop by on their way south.

The U.A.E. has a president, His Highness Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan (also the ruler of Abu Dhabi), and a prime minister, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum (also the ruler of Dubai). Each emirate has its own sheik or ruler. There are no elected bodies in the country.

Foreign nationals comprise the overwhelming majority of the population of the U.A.E. Most are guest workers from India and Pakistan who must return home when their contracts expire.

Falconry was formerly a sport in the emirates, practiced by sheikhs and desert dwellers during the winter. Both falcons and their prey have become rare in the region, though you'll occasionally see a sheikh at a special occasion with a symbolic falcon on his arm.


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