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12-night Mexico & Central America Cruise

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6-night Mexican Riviera Cruise

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Overview

Introduction

It's said that Ensenada, Mexico—one of Mexico's busiest ports—is built around a bar. Although that's not true (fishing and wineries remain its economic mainstays), Hussong's Cantina has enticed revelers to Ensenada since 1892—a date that's easy to believe once visitors see the legendary watering hole's clapboard exterior and scarred wooden floors covered in sawdust. Most tourist dollars are spent by U.S. partygoers who drive south or arrive on cruise ships out of Southern California.

Another of Ensenada's attractions is the low-key and truly Mexican flavor of its reasonably priced restaurants, shops and hotels—all only 65 mi/105 km south of the U.S.-Mexico border. These are rapidly succumbing to mass tourism and all that it entails, but for the moment they are wonderful enclaves of culture and cuisine, and in a much safer setting than most of the border towns offer.

Visitors soon find, however, that Ensenada isn't really a beach resort: The closest beach is a 15-minute drive away, and the most important occupant of the waterfront boulevard is a bustling fish market. But while Ensenada has neither the beachfront boardwalk of Puerto Vallarta nor Mazatlan's "Golden Zone" of beaches and bars, it does boast an earthy attraction and friendly people in an authentic Mexican environment.

The lack of palm-lined coves and colonial architecture doesn't keep tourists away. Visitors to Ensenada can visit a cantina or sidewalk cafe and stroll through the market and adjoining seafood eateries. Tourists browse along the main shopping district, Avenida Lopez Mateos, with its sidewalks, refurbished storefronts and ornate streetlamps. Visitors can also enjoy good wine from gold-green Guadalupe Valley outside the city.

Ensenada serves as the gateway to the fabled Baja Peninsula and is considered one of the best sportfishing ports anywhere along the Pacific.

Must See or Do

Sights—Fabulous views of the harbor, city and one of the largest flags you'll ever see from El Mirador on Chapultepec Hill; the ocean geyser at La Bufadora; the Valle de Guadalupe wine region; world-class sportfishing, surfing and wind surfing.

Museums—The Museo del Puerto; the Museo Historico Regional de Ensenada; and the Museo de Historia de Ensenada.

Memorable Meals—Fresh fish tacos at one of the food stands facing Ensenada's daily fish market; seafood at La Cocedora de Langosta.

Late Night—Loud music and dancing at Papas and Beer; a visit to Hussong's Cantina.

Walks—Strolling along La Ventana al Mar (Window to the Sea) park or the malecon (ocean-facing boulevard).

Especially for Kids—Go-karts and family fun at the Epocas Family Amusement Center.

Geography

History

Good fishing may have been what enticed the nomadic Yumano Indians, the first known visitors to the region, but they never established a permanent settlement. Portuguese explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo (exploring in the name of Spain) stopped briefly in the area in September 1542, and called it San Mateo. Nearly 60 years later, in 1602, Sebastian Vizcaino renamed the bay Bahia de Todos Santos. He dubbed the shore Ensenada de Todos Santos, which means "cove of all saints" in Spanish. Even Junipero Serro stopped in on Ensenada, but only briefly, and no missions were founded there.

In 1806, Alferez Jose Manuel Ruiz, a commander of the border territory, bought Ensenada from Gov. Jose Joaquín Arrillaga for 2 pesos. He used the land only for ranching. In 1824, Ruiz returned to his hometown Loreto and sold the land to his son-in-law, Francisco Gastelum for 600 pesos. Gastelum and his family became the first nonnative residents of Ensenda.

Mexico won its independence from Spain in 1810 and became its own country in 1821. In 1848, the treaty of Guadalupe Hildago was signed, splitting Alta and Baja Californias. In 1854, American William Walker invaded the territory and named the Gastelum house Fort McKibbin. His occupation was short lived, however. A guerilla group, led by Antonio Melendez, took the area back for Mexico.

Then it languished for nearly 20 years with few settlers from south of Baja and other parts of Mexico, until the gold strike in 1870. This established Ensenada as a port, since people preferred to do business by sea instead of the lengthy land travel through Tijuana. Once the mines were depleted, Ensenada drifted into obscurity again until the 1920s, when film idols bucking U.S. Prohibition started driving down to indulge themselves.

In the 1930s, a paved road was built between Tijuana and Ensenada ensuring the small but steady stream of tourists from the U.S. Migration doubled from interior Mexico during World War II, when Ensenada became a military base. Another boost to the economy came when Californians started building vacation homes around Ensenada.

Nonetheless, the town still retains a strong Mexican flavor, though it is less obvious when the cruise ships call, bringing millions of tourist per year to this once-sleepy town. Even when business is booming, locals approach their work with a sense of calm, certain that everything absolutely necessary will get done eventually. Visitors soon slip into the same pace. Just relax and sing along with the mariachis, and remember that manana means just that—tomorrow (maybe), not today.

Potpourri

Filibuster William Walker invaded Baja California in 1853, declaring it the Republic of Lower California, and made Ensenada his headquarters, living in the only house in town. He wanted to annex Lower California to the U.S. as a slave state but failed.

Following the end of the Civil War, a wave of U.S. adventurers immigrated to Ensenada hoping to make a fortune from the 1870 gold rush.

"Poker Charlie," a local character of the 1890s when Ensenada was still a frontier town, claimed to own the only kangaroo racehorse, a mix of coyote and burro.

Ensenada hosts one of Baja's largest Carnival celebrations, with parades, fiestas and dances. In general, the city's high season corresponds with U.S. holidays—expect crowds during the summer months as well as during spring break, Memorial Day, the Fourth of July and Labor Day.

Todos Santos Islands have hosted the world's most famous surfing contest—Billabong—several times. Waves in excess of 50 ft/17 m are common there and are the largest anywhere along the Pacific coast.

Most immigrants to the areas surrounding Ensenada are not from the U.S. (except for winter residents) or even Mexico, but rather are descended from religious emigres from Russia. Many local vineyards were founded by these immigrants, known as Molokans.

Location

The three-berth cruise-ship dock—known as the International Terminal—is in the center of the downtown waterfront. Cruises call on Ensenada weekly, generally after stops in Los Angeles and/or San Diego. Cruise Port Village, a multipurpose center at the foot of the dock, has a few jewelry, craft and liquor stores, plus tour stands. A money exchange service (casa de cambio) is just outside the Village along with some small restaurants.

Both the International Terminal and the entire port are under the authority of the Administracion Portuaria Integral de Ensenada (Ensenada Port Authority). Although more for business users, it has an excellent English-language website, updated daily, that provides information on arrivals and other matters of interest to visitors. The International Terminal is open Monday-Friday 7 am-7 pm, Saturday 7 am-3 pm. Blvd. Lazaro Cardenas 656, Local 7, Plaza Marina. Phone 646-178-2860. Toll-free 01-800-788-2464. http://www.puertoensenada.com.mx.

You can easily walk to Ensenada's most interesting sights (including several of its famed curiosity shops—curiosidades) from the pier, many of which are along the pedestrianized Boulevard Lazaro Cardenas. If you're not up to walking, taxis await passengers at the foot of the pier, as do calandrias (horse-drawn carriages) that trot along the busy avenues.

A tourist-information office that provides information about Baja California state is on the waterfront across the street from the Village, and there's always an English-speaking staff person on duty. Monday-Friday 9 am-8 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Blvd. Lazaro Cardenas 1477. Phone 646-172-3022. http://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com.

The city of Ensenada's tourist-information office is located two streets away from the pier in the Hotel Santo Tomas. Open Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm, Saturday 10 am-3 pm. Blvd. Lazaro Cardenas 609, Local 5. Phone 646-178-8588. Toll-free 01-800-025-3991 or 800-310-9687 from the U.S. http://www.enjoyensenada.com.

Shore Excursions

Given that most of Ensenada's restaurants, bars and retail shops are very close to the pier, almost all tours include lunch and drinks or additional stops, although some may not. Check with your travel agent for additional information.

Diving or snorkeling off Punta Banda will put you in touch with the area's rich waters that harbor all sorts of undersea life—from reefs to colorful fish. Following a morning exploring the ocean, get some lunch in one of the typical seafood eateries near the waterfront, with time later for shopping along Bulevar Lazaro Cardenas or Avenida Lopez Mateos.

If your ship overnights in port, plan on signing up for a festive fiesta mexicana in the evening or dining in one of Ensenada's prime restaurants. Spend the day on a city tour, then make a visit to the ocean geyser La Bufadora, have lunch in a popular local restaurant and later head for the wide array of shopping opportunities. You'll have time for a rest before dinner.

Wine lovers can take guided tours of wineries in nearby Valle de Guadalupe. All include tastings, and some wineries offer a free bottle of wine with a tasting. Tour lengths range from two to five hours.

Increasing numbers of adventure excursions are available, most of which are maritime-oriented, and feature any combination of diving, kayaking, kite-surfing, off-shore or surf fishing, surfing, water skiing or windsurfing, usually followed by beach activities and a massive cookout afterwards. These generally require at least a full day's stay over, and are very popular with younger visitors. Trips to Todos Santos Islands are especially popular for surfers.