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Aden

The smallest of southern Yemen’s six provinces is Aden, with the capital of the same name. This ancient town was built upon a former volcano and its shoreline is cut by enormous craters. Aden offers a number of interesting sights, including the ancie...

Categories: Aden


Al Ghaydah

Located in the Mahra province (in the extreme east), this coastal town has a population that still speaks ancient (non-Arabic) dialects. Though quite a bit out of the way, Al Ghaydah will attract those who are deeply interested in Mideastern culture....

Categories: Al Ghaydah


Al Mokha

Once the most important port on the Red Sea, Al Mokha was also the major exporter of coffee in the world. Aden eclipsed it as a port and Brazil surpassed it as a coffee producer, but Al Mokha gave us the name and the rich flavor of mocha coffee. Toda...

Categories: Al Mokha


'Amran

This walled town has an excellent Friday market, well-preserved mud walls, multistoried buildings, several old souks (markets—rhymes with dukes) and houses. Generally speaking, we wouldn't go out of our way to visit Amran unless it's a Friday—market ...

Categories: 'Amran


Bayt Al Faqih

Bayt al Faqih is most famous for its Friday market. Although there's not much else to see, we think this is another market that's really worth a visit—it began in the 18th century as a coffee-trading center and drew merchants from as far away as Indi...

Categories: Bayt Al Faqih


Beihan

Beihan's main attraction is the Beihan Museum (allow several hours to tour). If time permits, also visit Jabal Aqil, site of a Timna cemetery, and nearby Timna itself to see the ancient Timna ruins. Beihan is sometimes closed to visitors, so check in...

Categories: Beihan


Bir 'Ali

A coastal town, Bir 'Ali is normally seen as a stopover on the drive from Aden to Al Mukalla. That's a pity, really, because the town has enough of interest to justify an overnight stay (though that would entail camping along the shore—there are no a...

Categories: Bir 'Ali


Hadramawt

Hadramawt is a mountainous region, home to nomadic tribes. This vast and scenic area stretches 350 mi/565 km from the Arabian Sea to the Saudi border. Organized air tours depart Aden daily. If you're going there, be sure your tour includes stops in A...

Categories: Hadramawt


Hajjarah

At an elevation of 6,500 feet/1,981 m, Hajjarah is truly spectacular. This walled city built on a steep mountain offers magnificent views, unique architecture and fascinating people. Hajjarah is generally seen as a side trip from Hodeidah. 60 mi/100...

Categories: Hajjarah


Hodeidah

Hodeidah (pop 130,000) is a Red Sea port city. The surrounding area looks very African, complete with straw and mud huts, scrub bush and sand. The city itself isn't worth a special visit, but it's a good place to stay while seeing the area. In town, ...

Categories: Hodeidah


Ibb


Categories: Ibb


Jibla

This village, set in the greenest and most fertile part of Yemen, will be one of the highlights of your trip: Its 13th-century architecture, palaces, narrow streets and ancient atmosphere will take you back in time. The principal site is the Queen Ar...

Categories: Jibla


Kamaran Island


Categories: Kamaran Island


Kawkaban

The twin towns of Kawkaban and Shibam are located in Al Mahweet province (locally claimed to be the most fertile and beautiful in Yemen). Shibam (not to be confused with the city of the same name—320 mi/515 km to the east) lies at the foot of Mt. Kaw...

Categories: Kawkaban


Manakha

Perched on a mountain ridge just off the Sana'a-to-Hodeidah road, this town of steep, narrow streets has many stone forts and fortified stone houses. Use the town as a starting point for trekking trips to the nearby towns of Shibam and Kawkaban. 40 ...

Categories: Manakha


Marib

Marib is really two cities. The old town was the Queen of Sheba's capital, according to legend, and remained the chief city of the region for nearly a millennium. More than 2,900 years after the Queen's reign ended, Marib has become an oil-boom town....

Categories: Marib


Mukalla

Mukalla offers visitor the chance to explore the stunning Yemen scenery, and spectacular Islamic and pre-Islamic architecture and 19th century fortresses. Mukalla has excellent dive areas where guides will point out the beautiful reefs and amazi...

Categories: Mukalla


Mukeiras

This mountain town merits a night's visit for its cool climate and special atmosphere. The local peaches are extraordinary. 95 mi/155 km northeast of Aden.

Categories: Mukeiras


Sa'Da

A desert town near the Saudi border, Sa'da is surrounded by a 1,000-year-old clay wall. Walking on the wall affords an unforgettable view. Sa'da has unique four- and five-story adobe buildings with narrow slits for windows. Be sure to visit the Al Ha...

Categories: Sa'Da


Sana'a

Sana'a, Yemen's capital (pop. 972,000), is the oldest city in the country. In many ways, it hasn't changed in centuries: It's a beautiful and fascinating city of unique architecture and veiled women. Among its attractions is the world's first skyscr...

Categories: Sana'a


Sayun

Sayun (pop. 20,000) is the best place to stay while visiting the Hadramawt Mountains area. In town, see the Sultan's Palace, which is now a museum exhibiting archaeological remains, coins from the days of the sultans and displays with themes such as ...

Categories: Sayun


Shibam

This ancient city (320 mi/515 km east of the town named Shibam) is probably the most impressive in southern Yemen. Set in the Hadramawt Valley, Shibam has a truly magnificent skyline of hundreds of white five- or six-story buildings (many of the buil...

Categories: Shibam


Socotra

Unless you're willing to put up with some very basic surroundings, you probably won't want to visit Socotra, the Arabian Sea's largest island (1,400 sq mi/3,625 sq km). Even though there is a weekly flight, there are almost no tourist facilities. The...

Categories: Socotra


Ta'Izz

Located at the base of Mt. Sabir, this holy city (pop. 178,000) has a must-see: the magnificent Palace of Imam Ahmed, now a national museum. It is crammed with memorabilia, including the Imam's room as it was on the night he died in 1962. The Salah P...

Categories: Ta'Izz


Tarim

This town in the Hadramawt Valley is best known for its 365 mosques, many of which are quite impressive. If we had to choose one, we'd select the Al Muhdar Mosque—its minaret towers 165 ft/50 m in the air. Spend some time, too, at the Al Afqah Librar...

Categories: Tarim


Wadi Dahr

The not-to-be-missed Wadi Dahr Rock Palace is perched atop a column-shaped hill—an impressive setting. It's said to be Yemen's most photographed building. After seeing it, stroll through the nearby villages, visit the qat orchards, stop at the teahou...

Categories: Wadi Dahr


Zabid

An ancient Islamic center of learning, Zabid is the birthplace of algebra. We don't suggest an overnight there, but be sure to see the Al Ashair mosque and some of the 85 other mosques, walk the old, narrow streets and visit the 19th-century Nasr cas...

Categories: Zabid


After more upsets than a first-time traveller to India, Yemen is developing a calm and collected air. Although the country is rapidly modernizing, plenty of old-style Arabia - from spicy souqs to presumptuous palaces - still exist. The country is covered in ancient skyscrapers - eight-story buildings made from stone and mud - where people live on top of their animals and the views are spectacular. See mind-blowing mosques, sultans' palaces and villages perched on top of remote mountains.
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Yemen has never been among the most peaceable of places. Yemeni men have long believed in being well armed, and in modern times their traditional curved daggers, called djambias, have been supplemented by AK-47s and Kalashnikovs. These days the guns seem to be fashion accessories as much as well-used weapons. An uneasy union established nearly a decade ago between the Islamic North and secular South appears to be holding, despite occasional skirmishes.

But don't let that make you think Yemen is an easy or safe place to visit. There have been sporadic kidnappings of foreigners, including one incident that led to the death of several travelers. Terrorists attacked the U.S.S. Cole at Yemen's port of Aden in 2000, killing 17 sailors. While a trip to Yemen has always involved an element of risk, the danger posed to travelers at the current time is too substantial: We cannot recommend a trip there.

We wish the news were better, because Yemen is a fascinating place. Green and mountainous in some places and hot and desolate in others, it is dotted with remnants of early civilization—improbable protoskyscrapers and fallen towers made of mud and stone. In a very small area it contains an unexpected variety of terrains, climates, historical sites, people, cultures, architecture, music, clothing and food.

Geography

Shaped like an elbow, Yemen occupies the elevated southwestern corner of the Arabian Peninsula on the Red Sea. The area known as North Yemen (which is actually more west than north), a far superior tourist destination, has more fertile regions. In spite of a pleasant coastline and mountains reaching 8,178 ft/2,492 m, the area of South Yemen (again, more east than south) is somewhat barren, hot and dry—to the northeast is the bottom end of the aptly named Empty Quarter stretching into central Saudi Arabia, some of the most barren land in the world.

History

With its strategic location at the entrance to the Red Sea, Yemen has been home to civilization since the 15th century BC. Paleolithic stone tools found on both sides of the Bab al-Mandab Strait, which separates Yemen from what is now Djibouti, suggest that humans reached Yemen from East Africa as long as 40,000 years ago. Once an important and prosperous link in the silk and spice trade between Europe, Africa and India, the land was occupied by many, but its soul seems to have been conquered by none. The Himyarites, Ethiopians, Persians, Turks and British are but some of the civilizations that have tried with varying success to control the Yemeni people.

The history of the past two centuries is particularly complex. At times united and at others split into many states, Yemen was first ruled by the Ottoman Empire and then by the British Empire. The fiercely independent Yemenis managed to break free of the Ottomans at the end of World War I—the northern half of the country was ruled by a reactionary Imamate until a 1962 revolt brought that region into the modern age. The British ruled the south, calling it Aden, from 1839 until independence in 1967. When the Union Jack was hauled down, 12 years of bloody strife between the former Aden and northern Yemen resulted in the creation of two separate nations, the Yemen Arab Republic (North Yemen) and the People's Democratic Republic of Yemen (PDR Yemen or South Yemen) in 1979. As the first Arab Communist country, PDR Yemen existed until economic crisis led it to unite with the North in May 1990 to become the Yemen Arab Republic—which lasted until 1994 when Vice President Ali Salem al Beidh walked out, dissatisfied by the North's apparent desire to annex the South rather than form a union with it. The North quickly invaded, plunging the country into civil war. The war ended two months later when the South's capital fell and its leadership fled the country.

Since then, the North, led by President Ali Abdullah Salah, who has the support of the army, has been consolidating its hold over the South and reintegrating Southerners (with the exception of the former vice president) into political life—in hopes of using them as a balance against Islamic extremists in the North. Coping with its long struggle for unification, which has left the northern part of the country in better shape than the South, the Republic of Yemen (as it's now officially known) remains among the poorest nations of the world. President Salah has ruled since the late 1970s, and democracy remains in its infancy in Yemen.

Snapshot

Historical and archaeological sites, beaches, folkloric displays, mineral baths, architecture, camel caravans, a casino, interesting people, rugged mountain and desert scenery will be Yemen's main draws when the country gets a handle on its kidnapping problem.

Yemen is only for adventurous travelers interested in history and/or Arab culture—and who are prepared to take substantial risks. Such travelers must also be prepared to experience some inconvenience, but if they survive unscathed, they'll see a fascinating country. Southern Yemen is not yet geared for tourists, and inconveniences abound.

Potpourri

The green leaves everyone seems to be chewing are known as qat (pronounced cot). It's a mild stimulant, and it's as much a part of business and government in Yemen as the cocktail is in the West. Indeed, the afternoon qat session is a ritual in Yemen: Most men leave work around 2 pm at least once a week to gather with their friends and spend the afternoon chatting and chewing. There are signs the habit is dying, however. President Salah recently banned the chewing of qat by soldiers and gave up qat himself. Women also chew qat, but not as frequently, or as ritualistically, as men.

In 1997, two Yemeni men attempted to sue NASA for trespassing after the space-exploration agency landed a robot on Mars.

The discovery of oil came much later to Yemen than to other countries on the Arabian peninsula. It wasn't until the mid 1980s that oil was discovered in the desert area between then-divided North and South Yemen. Since then, further large oil and gas reserves have been discovered. About 20 foreign oil companies operate in the country, and most are located in the Marib, Masila and Shabwa areas.

Archaeological discoveries in the Mahra region of eastern Yemen have suggested a possible link to the Biblical magi (the wise men) who brought gifts of frankincense and myrrh. The valuable gum-resin products, used as incense and embalming spices, probably came from one of the rediscovered trading centers in Yemen. Arabia Felix, as it was then known, was an important stop on the thriving trade route in the ancient world between Persia and Rome.

Yemen was the primary source of coffee beans when the craze for the brew swept Europe in the late 17th and early 18th centuries. It enjoyed a monopoly until coffee plants were smuggled out of Yemen and replanted in Brazil and Indonesia.

The name Yemen may be derived from the Arabic word Yumn, meaning blessing and happiness, although it may also come from the Arabic term yamanan, meaning from the south.

In the days of the Ottoman Empire, men from Hodeidah were the gatekeepers for the imperial palace in Istanbul.

The ruins of Mayfa'a, dating from the 3rd century BC, can be found at Azan, 200 mi/320 km northeast of Aden.

Shabwa, 215 mi/345 km northeast of Aden, is a good place to see nomads in desert scenery and some ruins (the city is occasionally closed to tourists, so check in Aden before heading out there).

Legend has it that Sana'a was founded by Shem, son of Noah.

Unlike other people of the Arabian Peninsula, who have historically been nomads or seminomads, Yemenis are almost all farmers and live in small villages and towns.

Aden was once a thriving trading city, but after Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to Asia around Africa in 1498, its fortunes waned.

The Yemen mountains reach an altitude of over 10,000 feet/3,000 m. Many of the inland cities are at an average elevation of 6,000 feet/1,800 m.

As is the rule with most Islamic countries, try not to visit Yemen during Ramadan, the monthlong religious holiday during which citizens fast all day and eat in the evening (the dates vary from year to year).

Businesses are closed on Fridays and during major Islamic holidays.




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