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There's less talk these days about Quebec becoming an independent country. But for most visitors to the province, it's already a place quite distinct from the rest of North America. Those differences are why people visit.

Language, of course, is the most obvious distinction, but the most enjoyable one has to do with lifestyle. There's a bon-vivant temperament to Quebec that's hard to find in the English-speaking provinces of Canada. Quebecois tend to spend hours talking, drinking and eating. In the cafes and restaurants, servers rarely rush you. And like their counterparts in France, the Quebecois take food seriously: You will eat well there.

One joy of traveling in Quebec has little to do with culture or language: It's simply a beautiful place. The wide St. Lawrence River is the backdrop for many of the province's cities and towns, with mountains rising to the north of the river. In fact, a tour through the St. Lawrence Valley will let you experience picturesque islands, rugged fjords and bucolic countryside. Remote wilderness can be found in the farther reaches of this vast province.

Geography

History

In previous centuries, Quebec's lands were used as hunting, trapping and fishing grounds for the Nipissing, Algonquian and Inuit people. The Vikings may have visited Quebec around AD 1000, but the first documented European explorer to see the province was Jacques Cartier, who arrived in 1534. In the early 1600s, Samuel de Champlain and other French explorers began to establish a few trading posts and settlements, including one at the site of Quebec City. But it wasn't until the late 1600s that French colonists began to settle the land in larger numbers.

Soon, Britain began to squeeze the French out of the Atlantic provinces. Many of the refugees ended up in what is now Quebec, making the colony's French character even stronger. By the 1700s, France was losing its hold on its North American possessions altogether. In the 1759 battle on the Plains of Abraham outside the fortress of Quebec City, Britain's Gen. James Wolfe defeated French Gen. Louis de Montcalm. That victory helped to hasten the British conquest of Canada, which was accomplished in 1763. It did not, however, result in the conquest of Quebec's French culture.

The area grew strong economically—its strategic location on the St. Lawrence River (now called the St. Lawrence Seaway) between the Atlantic Ocean and the Great Lakes helped make it an essential center for commerce and westward expansion. As a result, Quebec had some leverage with which to retain its French culture and language when it joined the Canadian confederation in 1867.

But repeatedly over the past century, some groups in Quebec have called for greater provincial autonomy, stirring debate, controversy and occasional violence. The collapse in 1990 of the Meech Lake Accord, which would have shifted more power from the national government to the provinces and given Quebec recognition as a "distinct society" was followed by the province's 1995 referendum on secession from Canada. The referendum was defeated—but just barely. The separatist movement seems to have less support of late, but the issue has not been put to rest.

Snapshot

Quebec's main attractions are Quebec City, beautiful scenery, outdoor recreation of all kinds, Montreal, French Canadian culture, wildlife, fall foliage (especially in the Eastern Townships and the Laurentians), historic sites, magnificent river and ocean shorelines, whale-watching, the Saguenay River and Fjord, winter sports and the Gaspe Peninsula.

Practically every traveler will find something of interest in Quebec, especially those who enjoy history, scenic beauty and French culture. Be aware that on occasion there may be no one present who can speak English, particularly in rural areas.

Potpourri

Those who named the town of Saint-Louis-du-Ha! Ha! were not making a joke: To French explorers, a haha was a barrier—a reference to the end of the lake.

On the Ile aux Grues, a small 5-sq-mi/13-sq-km island in the St. Lawrence River, the people still celebrate mi-careme, a medieval tradition where everyone puts on elaborate disguises and parades from house to house, hoping to fool their hosts as to their true identities. The weeklong festival, which includes much drinking and dancing, takes place during Lent.

Chateau Montebello, a sprawling resort on the Ottawa River between Montreal and Ottawa, is the world's largest log cabin. Elk, bison and wild boar roam through nearby Omega Park.

At the Saint-Benoit-du-Lac Abbey, overlooking Lake Memphremagog in the Eastern Townships, you can buy the abbey's superb apple butter and cheese (along with recordings of Gregorian chants, for which the monks are justly famous). You can also stay there overnight.

If you're not a skier, you can still enjoy schussing down the slopes of Quebec's mountains. Tubing—sliding down the mountain on an inflated inner tube—has become popular at many of Quebec's ski resorts, and no previous experience is necessary.

Many Quebec villages, distinguished by Victorian-style houses, were settled by loyal British subjects who fled the U.S. at the time of the Revolutionary War.

The correct (and certainly politically correct) pronunciation of Quebec is keh-BECK. Montreal is MUN-tree-all.

Several Canadian prime ministers have called Quebec home, among them Brian Mulroney, Jean Chretien, Paul Martin and Justin Trudeau.

The Quebec flag includes the fleur-de-lis, once the symbol of the French royal family.

Quebec City looks, at first glance, much like one of France's Atlantic coastal cities. A UNESCO-designated World Heritage site, Quebec City has gabled buildings dating from the 1600s and narrow, winding streets made of cobblestones. You can amble through airy plazas—past fountains and statues—as you make your way to Terrasse Dufferin, a wide promenade straddling the clifftop with fantastic views of the St. Lawrence River below. Presiding over it all is the Chateau Frontenac, a grand hotel reminiscent of a French castle.

Stone fortifications, built by the French and improved upon by the British, circle the old center of Vieux Quebec and set it apart from any other city in Canada or the U.S. The walls divide Basse Ville (lower town) from Haute Ville (upper town), and are a testament to military conflicts involving the Iroquois, French, English and Americans.

Beyond its deep history, Quebec City offers other enticements: The city's culture revolves around wining, dining and dancing (and more wining and dining). You will eat and drink well there.

Cultural events by the likes of Cirque du Soleil, music festivals with free performances, and caleche horse-and-carriage rides take over the city in the warm-weather months. The capital of the province of Quebec, Quebec City has a bon-vivant temperament that sets it apart from Canada's English-speaking cities.

Which leads us to the language question. Almost all Quebec City residents speak French as their primary tongue, but most who work in the tourist areas also speak some English—and they are friendly and helpful to visitors.

Must See or Do

Sights—The distinctive architecture of the Chateau Frontenac; a view of the city from the ferry to Levis; the 4,306-sq-ft/400-sq-m trompe l'oeil mural at Place Royale; vendors selling local produce at the bustling Marche du Vieux Port.

Museums—Artifacts depicting Quebec's past and present at Musee de la Civilisation; regional art at Musee National des Beaux-Arts du Quebec; exhibits showcasing French culture in North America at Musee de l'Amerique Francaise, part of Musee de la Civilisation; the historical sound-and-light show at Musee du Fort; a glimpse at the history of Huron-Wendat culture at the Hotel-Musee Premieres Nations.

Memorable Meals—Steak and fries at Le Cochon Dingue; a traditional layered meat-and-vegetable pie cipaille at Buffet de l'Antiquaire; rich rabbit stews at Le Lapin Saute; tapas followed by a concert at Le Cercle.

Late Night—Enjoy a flavorful cocktail at Le Boudoir; intimate surroundings at Bar Jazz in the Hotel Clarendon; an exquisite dinner at Il Teatro followed by a live show at Le Theatre Capitole.

Walks—Ride the Funiculaire du Vieux Quebec up to Terrasse Dufferin for the view of the port; Quartier Petit Champlain for shopping and people-watching; a brisk walk by the St. Lawrence River on the Promenade Samuel de Champlain; Grande Allee Est for the buzzing nightlife.

Especially for Kids—Summer watersliding and winter ice-karting at Valcartier Vacation Village; bumper cars and the roller coaster at Mega-Parc, an indoor amusement park; the Aquarium du Quebec for critter spotting of species that come from as far away as the Arctic.

Geography

Quebec City is divided into old and new sections. Most of Vieux Quebec (Old Quebec) sits at the top of the cliff in an area that is called Haute Ville (Upper Town). The other part of the old city is crammed between the base of the cliff and the river—it's known as Basse Ville (Lower Town). It has some memorable old structures, as well as shops and restaurants. Quartier Petit Champlain is just below the Chateau Frontenac. Vieux Port (Old Port) lies just north of this district. Most of the city's interesting sites are situated in the upper and lower parts of Vieux Quebec.

The more modern side of Quebec City (parks, office buildings, shopping malls and urban sprawl) is found on the high bluff beyond the walls of Vieux Quebec. The newer section of the city, just west of the old walled city, is the Haute Ville district of Faubourg Saint Jean. The borough of Sainte-Foy is southwest of Quebec City.

History

The Iroquois are thought to have been the first people to paddle through this area. The First Nations called the place Kebec, which in Algonquin means "place where the river narrows." Quebec City is located on the north shore at the narrowest point of the St. Lawrence River. Although historians are unsure of the precise location, they know that the Iroquois established a village named Stadacona within what is now Quebec City. French explorer Jacques Cartier landed there in 1535, and in 1608 Samuel de Champlain founded a fur-trading post there.

A steady supply of animal pelts transformed Quebec City into a major port, and it was highly sought after by both the British and the French in the wars of the 17th and 18th centuries. In 1759, the city finally fell under English control after a short, decisive battle on the Plains of Abraham (just outside the city walls). French Canada became a British colony and later the province of Quebec in an independent Canada.

Although many Quebecois continue to advocate Quebec independence from Canada, the issue has lost steam in recent years. A 1995 referendum on sovereignty failed narrowly and has not been repeated. Still, the issue has not been put to rest—particularly in Quebec City, where nationalist sentiments traditionally run high.

But whether an independentist or a federalist, francophone, anglophone or allophone, all residents of the city (and indeed the entire province) are alike in their fierce pride of Quebec's capital: The year-long, feverish and spectacular celebration of the city's 400th anniversary that took place in 2008 is a case in point.

Potpourri

Look for the slogan "Je me souviens" on all automobile license plates. It means "I remember" and has garnered several interpretations that deeply reflect the French culture and traditions. One interpretation is from a poem: "Je me souviens/Que ne sous le lys/Je crois sous la rose." Translation: "I remember/That born under the lily/I grow under the rose."

Residents refer to the city as Quebec, not Quebec City—using the longer name is a sure giveaway of being an English-speaking tourist.

In front of 59 Rue St. Louis, look for the cannonball embedded in the roots of an old tree. Legend says it landed there during the siege of Quebec in 1759, but it seems more likely that it was placed there on purpose in the late 1800s to keep carriages from damaging the tree's roots.

At Montmorency Falls, about a 10-minute drive from Vieux Quebec, water cascades a drop of 272 ft/83 m, one and a half times the height of Niagara Falls.

Quebec City, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985, is the only North American walled city north of Mexico. A reflection of its profound religious past, six churches (basilicas and chapels) still stand within Vieux Quebec alone.

Vieux Quebec (Haute Ville and Basse Ville) averages two restaurants per block. And since Vieux Quebec is only 3 sq mi/8 sq km in area, it's no surprise that it is known as one of the food capitals of Canada—and the world.

Archaeologists remain baffled about the unknown burial site of the man known as the "Father of New France," explorer Samuel de Champlain, who is believed to be buried somewhere in Quebec City. They have been actively trolling the city in search of his burial site since 1950 but haven't had any luck.

Location

Boasting the largest cruise ship port along the St. Lawrence River, Quebec City, more than 400 years old, is also the oldest port in Canada. It is a favorite stop for cruise ships sailing the St. Lawrence River, often as part of a New England or eastern Canada cruise. (Some ships even overnight in Quebec City.)

The ships dock at the cruise terminal, which is within walking distance of Place Royale in the heart of Vieux Quebec. Tourist maps and information are available in the terminal, which also has a restaurant with complimentary Internet access (Cafe du Monde), restrooms, pay phones, a currency-exchange bureau and rental car companies. Taxis line up at the dock when a cruise ship is in port.

For other tourist information, visit the year-round tourist information center next to the entrance of the Plains of Abraham (open daily). Complimentary wireless Internet is available. 835 Ave. Wilfred Laurier, Haute Ville. Phone 418-641-6290. Toll-free 877-783-1608.

From the port, take the funicular glass elevator up the embankment, but take the Escalier Casse-Cou (Breakneck Stairs) back down. Although steep, the stairs are manageable and something you should try if you are able.

Shore Excursions

Shore excursions—and their prices—vary from cruise line to cruise line. Some may include lunch and drinks, and the number of stops may vary. Excursions can last anywhere from a half-day to a two-day trip into the surrounding countryside. Morning or afternoon excursions typically take in the historic sites and museums in Vieux Quebec.

For instance, start at the pier and walk across the street to Lower Town Quebec (Basse Ville) where a network of cobblestone streets awaits. Along the way, spot Place Royale, the former home of wealthy merchants, and now part of a square that houses Notre Dame des Victoires, considered one of the oldest Catholic churches in North America.

The quaint road called Petit Champlain ("Little Champlain") boasts an array of shops and boutiques of local artisans. Looming above is the Terrasse Dufferin, a historic boardwalk, which is accessible via a glass funicular (Can$3) that departs Lower Town to the popular pedestrian walkway. Wander inside Quebec's glorious Chateau Frontenac, a Fairmont property, for some tea and desserts then hit the narrow alleyways for some more boutiques and chic restaurants. Visitors enjoy the carriage rides that frequent the cobblestone streets in Haute Ville and make for an enjoyable way to see the sights.

Longer excursions cross over to Ile d'Orleans to visit the vineyards or along the Cote de Beaupre to visit Montmorency Falls, the Basilique Ste. Anne de Beaupre and Cap Tourmente. Some are thematic rather than simply site-oriented, exploring such subjects as the history of New France or the gastronomy of Quebec. Check with your travel agent for more information.