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Admiralty Islands

North of the New Guinea mainland, this island chain, known locally as the province of Manus, has many large and beautiful atolls. Manusians are relatively well-educated compared with many of their New Guinea counterparts, and some can understand Engl...

Categories: Admiralty Islands


Ali Island

Ali Island is located northeast of Aitape Town, and the island is easily reached by a 30-40 minute boat ride.  The island is known for its peaceful atmosphere and the hospitality provided by the islanders. Locals are always interested in meeting...

Categories: Ali Island


Amboin

An outpost along the Karawari River, Amboin is near the Karawari Lodge, a rustic retreat on a hill overlooking the river. The lodge offers riverboat excursions and tribal dances (it's an alternative to Sepik River cruising). Plan to stay two full day...

Categories: Amboin


April River


Categories: April River


Asaro

Usually seen on a day trip from Goroka, Asaro is well-known for the eerie mud masks of the local tribe. Be forewarned that the tribal ceremony performed for tourists is...well, touristy, and typically lasts no more than 10 minutes. Mud masks made by ...

Categories: Asaro


Bakawari Island


Categories: Bakawari Island


Bougainville

Bougainville may be familiar to World War II veterans as the place where Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto (who planned the attack on Pearl Harbor and Midway) was shot down while on an inspection tour in 1943. Today, it's a troubled island in northern Solomon...

Categories: Bougainville


Conflict Group, Louisiada Islands


Categories: Conflict Group Louisiada Islands


Crater Mountain

This newly created wildlife preserve holds lush rain forest filled with large caves, waterfalls and birds of paradise. Twenty clans donated the 1,000 sq mi/2,600 sq km of land for the park, which is managed by the Wildlife Conservation Society. The o...

Categories: Crater Mountain


Crown Island

Crown island, off the southwestern Bismarck Sea, is a circular island and the remnant of an extinct volcano. The interior is made of a series of valley's and ridges, while the low-lying coastal areas are where fringing reefs can be found.

Categories: Crown Island


Dregerhafen


Categories: Dregerhafen


Garove Island (Witu Islands)

Garove Island is the largest of the Witu (Vitu) Islands, and contains the Garove volcano, which has a three mile caldera that opens to the sea.

Categories: Garove Island (Witu Islands)


Goroka

At an elevation of 5,000 ft/1,525 m, this town offers relief from the heat and humidity below. Enjoy scenic drives through the cool mountains, then visit the incredible J. K. McCarthy Museum (one of the country's best). There's a nice crafts market n...

Categories: Goroka


Gulf of Papua


Categories: Gulf of Papua


Iwa Island


Categories: Iwa Island


Kafure


Categories: Kafure


Kainantu

In Kainantu, on the Highlands Highway east of Goroka, you'll find the Eastern Highlands Cultural Centre (shopping and demonstrations of handicraft-making). Nearby is Ukarumpa, a fairly large missionary community connected to the Summer Institute of L...

Categories: Kainantu


Kairiru Island


Categories: Kairiru Island


Kamiali

A remote village only accessible by boat, Kamiali is an important ecological location in Papua New Guinea. Coral reefs full of bright colors and marine life surround this area, and the lush rainforests and lowlands contain an eclectic population of p...

Categories: Kamiali


Kanganamun


Categories: Kanganamun


Kaqi


Categories: Kaqi


Kar


Categories: Kar


Karawari


Categories: Karawari


Kaviong


Categories: Kaviong


Kawana Strait


Categories: Kawana Strait


Kokoda Trail

The site of World War II battles, the Kokoda Trail is the name given to what was once a long wartime supply line, beginning near Port Moresby, continuing across the Owen Stanley Ridge to Buna on the northern New Guinea coast, and passing several Kaoi...

Categories: Kokoda Trail


Kopar


Categories: Kopar


Kuiawa Island

A small island off Papua New Guinea. Kuiawa Island is culturally and geographically diverse, with unique flora and fauna. Enjoy the picturesque views, plentiful hiking opportunities, warm people and unique cultural experiences.

Categories: Kuiawa Island


Kundiawa

Set in the beautiful and mountainous Highland Chimbu District between Mt. Hagen and Goroka, Kundiawa is usually seen as an overnight stop. We actually enjoy Kundiawa more than Goroka, as it has a less modern feel.An exciting side trip from Kundiawa i...

Categories: Kundiawa


Kuri


Categories: Kuri


Lae

Lae, on the Bismarck Sea, is larger and more commercial than the better-known Madang. It merits a one-night stay to see the spectacular botanical gardens—allow several hours to see indigenous Papua New Guinea plants and the adjoining War Memorial Cem...

Categories: Lae


Laughlan Atoll


Categories: Laughlan Atoll


Linga Linga


Categories: Linga Linga


Louisiade Archipelago

The Louisiade Archipelago is a string of volcanic islands scattered like turquoise and emeralds across the dark blue waters, and fringed by stunningly beautiful corals.  Several of the islands include rain forests and exotic plants and anim...

Categories: Louisiade Archipelago


Madang

Madang is a port on the northeastern coast of New Guinea lying on Astrolabe Bay near the mouth of the Gogol River. It is the centre for a large timber industry based on the Gogol forest about 25 miles (40 km) inland. Nearby is an island studded lagoo...

Categories: Madang


Mamai


Categories: Mamai


Milne Bay

Milne Bay is the most isolated island community in Papau New Guinea, and visitors to the bay are generally looking to relax and get away from it all. The bay offers visitors some excellent dive sites with many scattered wrecks left from the war....

Categories: Milne Bay


Morehead


Categories: Morehead


Morobe Bay


Categories: Morobe Bay


Mt. Hagen

This provincial center of Western Highlands Province lies at 6,000 ft/1,830 m. It offers an excellent, cool climate—days average 75 F/24 C—and a wild, primitive feeling. Attractions include tribal villages, beautiful mountains, coffee plantations, ju...

Categories: Mt. Hagen


Murik Lakes


Categories: Murik Lakes


New Britain

Two volcanoes flanking New Britain's historic town of Rabaul—Vulcan and Tavurvur—erupted simultaneously in late 1994, causing extensive damage to the economic center of the outer islands. Mud flows and blankets of ash left 52,000 villagers homeless. ...

Categories: New Britain


New Ireland

New Ireland, with peaks reaching 4,900 ft/1,500 m, is divine. In the main town, Kavieng, be sure to see the Stone Grain Grinding Wheel (circa 1852) and the Museum of Manggan Carvings (ancient stone tools). Other attractions in the area include the Ut...

Categories: New Ireland


Ninigo Islands


Categories: Ninigo Islands


Nurutu Island


Categories: Nurutu Island


Port Moresby

Port Moresby, capital city of Papua New Guinea, is located on Paga Point on the south coast of New Guinea island. It is the site of government offices, the territorial museum, an art gallery, the University of Papua New Guinea, and the Institute of N...

Categories: Port Moresby


Punawan Island


Categories: Punawan Island


Ramu River


Categories: Ramu River


Salamo


Categories: Salamo


Samarai Island

Samarai Island is located in the China Strait located in Milne Bay, the easternmost inlet on the coast of Papua New Guinea, and gives good access to coral reefs and diving. The Bay has plantations on its south and west shores while the north shore is...

Categories: Samarai Island


Sepik River

The Sepik River is located in the beautiful Southeastern Asian island of New Guinea. This river is one of the largest rivers in the island at 1,126 kilometers in length. Along the Sepik River you will find an abundance of wild life and cultural landm...

Categories: Sepik River


Southern Highlands


Categories: Southern Highlands


Stockholm, PG


Categories: Stockholm PG


Tabar Islands


Categories: Tabar Islands


Tami Island

Located off of the southeast coast of Papua New Guinea’s Huon Peninsula, the Tami Islands consist of a group of four coral atolls.  The indigenous inhabitants of the islands are famous for their bowls, figurines and ceremonial masks...

Categories: Tami Island


Tari

The Highlands Highway, which turns to gravel beyond Mt. Hagen, has been extended over a 9,000-ft/2,700-m mountain pass into the Tari Basin. The Tari, home of the Huli tribes (famous for their Wigmen), provides a glimpse of less-Westernized cultures t...

Categories: Tari


Tingwon Island


Categories: Tingwon Island


Torokina


Categories: Torokina


Triton Bay

This largely unexplored tropical reef near the coast of Papua New Guinea boasts a fantastic array of soft corals as well as an extremely diverse fish population.  Triton Bay is a favorite of adventurous divers with a love for the exotic.&...

Categories: Triton Bay


Tsoi Island


Categories: Tsoi Island


Tuam Island

Tuam Island is an islet located off the south coast of the larger volcanic Umboi Island in Papua New Guinea.  

Categories: Tuam Island


Tufi

Located on a tropical fjord of Cape Nelson, Papua New Guinea.  With around 30 different dive sites, teeming with coral and schools of fish, Tufi is an extremely popular destination for divers and snorkelers alike.  Not only will dive...

Categories: Tufi


Vanimo


Categories: Vanimo


Vitu Island


Categories: Vitu Island


Wagifa Island


Categories: Wagifa Island


Watam


Categories: Watam


Wau

The Wau Ecology Institute is the local headquarters for birders and naturalists, who come to see the rain-forest flora and fauna. An interesting hike up Mt. Kaindi passes through several different types of vegetation. The institute offers hostel-type...

Categories: Wau


Weam

In the southwest portion of the country (near the border with Irian Jaya), this distinctive town is close to the Bensbach Wildlife Lodge (the lodge is 62 mi/100 km inland, among swamps and grassland along the Bensbach River). It's best to visit durin...

Categories: Weam


Wewak

Wewak is the capital town of the East Sepik Province. The Sepik River snakes through vast rain forests and mountains, and along the way you might catch a wave from local fishermen, see wild birds and other rain forest inhabitants. Wewak is known for ...

Categories: Wewak


Woodlark Island


Categories: Woodlark Island


Huge tracts of Papua New Guinea are wild and undeveloped, with magnificent scenery ranging from pristine coral atolls to volcanic mountains and dense tropical rainforest. The mainland is divided by the Owen Stanley Range, a massive central spike with peaks towering over 13,000 feet. Great rivers begin their journey to the sea from these mountains, among them the mighty Sepik River, one of the world's longest waterways.
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Papua New Guinea


Papua New Guinea (PNG) was one of the last inhabited places on Earth to be explored by other nations—and it's still the land of the unexpected. Travelers to this wild and beautiful island nation are in store for plenty of surprises—both good and bad.

On the positive side, there is the unspoiled nature of the landscape: isolated beaches, volcanic mountains, primal rivers and dense jungles. PNG's indigenous cultures, too, have retained much of their original character. With an incredible 700 separate languages still spoken, the country has tribal cultures as diverse as its flora and fauna.

Unfortunately, those same qualities that make the country so unusual also contribute to the downside of travel there. Because many of its people have remained isolated in the rugged countryside, there are unresolved tribal enmities and rivalries that have only been partially muted into the annual dance and costume competitions known as "sing-sings." In a number of regions, you'll still see fierce warriors carrying bows and quivers of arrows—just in case.

Everywhere you travel in the country, you're trespassing on someone's land. The attitude of the people whose land you're traversing will range from friendly to fearsome, although those who welcome visitors far outnumber the few who don't. But of more concern than stepping on tribal boundaries is PNG's general crime problem, which has plagued urban and rural areas for years, and which appears to be increasing in the capital, Port Moresby. Some sites (such as the Baiyer River area, one of the country's most interesting nature reserves) are too dangerous to visit.

There is, however, a way to minimize PNG's downside: Visit the country on an escorted tour. We seldom issue a blanket recommendation for this option, but independent travelers will have a hard time relaxing enough to enjoy PNG. Even on a tour, expect an atmosphere tinged with some paranoia.

History

The first settlers arrived on the main island (the second largest in the world, after Greenland) from Southeast Asia more than 50,000 years ago. European explorers, who spotted the coastline in the 1400s, didn't exploit the island—it was pretty much left alone until the 1800s. But then the Dutch, Germans and British split the island into colonies. Australia (100 mi/160 km south) inherited administration of the British colony, called Papua, and the German colony after World War I. During World War II, the northern half of the island was invaded by Japan, but eventually came under Allied military administration. Papua joined administratively with New Guinea following the war, and the territory was placed under international trusteeship. It regained independence in 1975. (The Dutch half of the island was seized by Indonesia in 1963 and is now the troubled province of Irian Jaya.)

Snapshot

Scuba diving, trekking, beaches, river cruises and rafting, jungles, animal and bird watching, saltwater fishing, tribal cultures, cave exploration and orchids are the main attractions of Papua New Guinea.

Papua New Guinea is recommended only for flexible, seasoned travelers interested in excellent scuba diving or primitive cultures. We do not recommend the country to inexperienced travelers, those who require world-class hotels or anyone whose trip would be ruined by mosquitoes, heat, humidity, delays or schedule changes. Organized tours are highly recommended for all but the most adventurous visitors who have plenty of time.

Potpourri

Sugarcane originated on the island of New Guinea. Arabs brought the plant to Spain, and the conquistadors carried it to the New World.

Chewing betel nuts, a local pastime in New Guinea, is a rather messy ritual. First, you chew the betel nut's fleshy core to a pulp. Then you dip various parts of a mustard plant into a bowl of lime (a white powder made from crushed sea shell that has been baked) and carefully add the stuff to your mouthful of pulp. When chewed together, this combination should produce a bright red liquid that must be spat out repeatedly, as if one were chewing tobacco.

There is particularly good diving in the Milne Island group, the Bismarck Sea and—one of the late Jacques Cousteau's favorite spots—Wuvulu Island. About 500 wrecks from World War II lie beneath the waters of PNG.

More than a million U.S. military personnel served in and around PNG during World War II. It was also there that General Douglas MacArthur earned the nickname "Dugout Doug," because he never visited the frontline troops.

The Kula Ring is the term used around Milne Bay to describe certain exchanges of goods. Historically, armlets were traded among islands in a counterclockwise fashion, and shell necklaces went clockwise.

Magazines and literature deemed pornographic are subject to confiscation, and their owners may be fined heavily. Blank videotapes are subject to customs duty and must be declared.

About 700 languages have been identified in the country, and of these, only 350-450 are related. Most are extremely complex grammatically.

Among specialty tours we've seen offered over the years are those that feature World War II sites, spelunking, diving, ethnological/anthropological/archaeological programs, white-water rafting (on the Watut and Waghi Gorge Rivers—both in the Highlands and jungle areas), climbing snowcapped Mt. Wilhelm (15,850 ft/4,830 m—best views tend to be in the early morning hours), trekking the southern Highlands near Mendi and Lake Kutubu and taking a cruise through the reefs from Madang to Rabaul.

More varieties of orchids are found in PNG than anywhere else on Earth.

More than US$500,000 in gold was discovered on Woodlark Island, in Milne Bay, during its gold rush.

The black-eared giant rat, found in PNG's forested mountains, can weigh up to 4.5 lb/2 kg and is a vegetarian.

Port Moresby has a "show" (festival) in mid July featuring singing, dancing, colorful costumes and a general party atmosphere. Mt. Hagen has one in late July and Goroka in mid August. If you're not planning on participating, avoid those times.

U.S. aviator Amelia Earhart's plane disappeared after taking off from Lae's Airport in 1937. Some believe she disappeared near New Britain.




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