Nepal

Overview

Introduction

Nepal is a heady place, whether you're a trekker on a trail to Annapurna, a climber on your way to Everest or a seeker on the path to enlightenment.

There are few countries on Earth that can match Nepal's combination of spectacular scenery, exotic culture and hospitable people. Along with the world's deepest canyon and eight of the world's 10 highest mountains, Nepal has steamy jungles and terraced valleys laced with ancient villages, remote temples and wildlife preserves.

For all its dizzying beauty, though, there are still problems in Nepal these days that can bring you down to earth in a hurry: Trash is still found on some peaks (though much has been cleared), robbery occurs occasionally on several of its most popular trekking trails, and pollution still fills the Kathmandu Valley—the benefits of new electric bemos (minibuses) are largely lost in a growing number of motorbikes.

Though the good hearts and spiritual nature of most Nepalis remain unchanged, the situation should be monitored by budding Siddharthas or would-be Edmund Hillarys tempted to visit Nepal at this time. Its peace is still precarious.

Geography

History

Although Nepal is an ancient land, it has only been a country for about 300 years. Independent hill states ruled the area until the late 18th century, when Prince Prithvi Narayan Shah united all of what is now Nepal. The nation took its first steps toward becoming a constitutional monarchy in 1951, before slipping into a dictatorship nine years later. Demonstrations in the late 1980s against oppressive rule resulted in multiparty elections in May 1991.

The transition to democracy has not been an easy one, however. The country is plagued by an ineffective bureaucracy, corruption and an ever-widening gap between rich and poor. Partly because of these problems, Maoist rebels—originally based in western Nepal but later widely spread—fought against the central government, especially from the mid-1990s.

In June 2001, the popular King Birendra and much of the royal family were killed in the palace by a gunman, apparently the crown prince, who himself died of a gunshot wound sustained that night (believed to be self-inflicted). Public grief and conspiracy theories about the unknown motivation of the massacre paralyzed the country for several weeks. King Birendra was succeeded by his brother, the unpopular Gyanendra.

The country remained in turmoil until June 2006 when a number of transitional changes were announced between the government and Maoists, including an interim government and constitution. After more than a decade of civil war, there is now peace across most of the country.

Under the terms of the agreement, the army and Maoist cadres were confined to barracks and cantonments. Both sides agreed to a permanent cease-fire and an arms-management arrangement monitored by the United Nations. The agreement also provided for elections to a Constituent Assembly and for the Maoists to become part of the political mainstream as a legitimate political party.

At the Maoists' insistence, the 240-year-old monarchy was provisionally abolished in December 2007—a decision the next assembly confirmed in May 2008 when the Maoists secured the largest number of seats and formed a coalition government. Ram Baran Yadav was elected president of the new republic. He was succeeded in 2015 by Bidhya Devi Bhandari, Nepal's first female head of state.

Snapshot

Among the chief attractions of Nepal are mountain and valley trekking, mountain climbing, Kathmandu, exotic wildlife preserves, Buddhist shrines, Hindu temples, bird-watching, beautiful scenery and river-rafting.

Nepal will appeal to open-minded, flexible travelers who want to see a truly exotic place. You don't need to be Sir Edmund Hillary to enjoy an organized trek—it's not like alpine mountain climbing—but the more physically fit you are, the more you will enjoy the walk. Don't visit Nepal if you are bothered by poverty and unsanitary conditions, unexpected delays and high altitudes (some of the land in the south is almost at sea level, but much of the country is high in the mountains). Nepal's mountainous location and climate make flight delays a distinct possibility, and although rebel activity has ceased the situation remains volatile.

Potpourri

Nepal may be rich in spirit, but economically it remains one of the world's poorest nations. Average annual income is barely US$260, and the average life expectancy is not quite 60.

During the festival Dasain, Royal Nepalese Airlines sacrifices one buffalo for each of its aircraft. The buffalo's blood is sprinkled on the landing gear so the plane will not have cause to satisfy its blood thirst with human passengers.

In traditional Newari families, marriages are negotiated by a lama and take place at a time and date deemed auspicious by the local astrologer. During the wedding ceremony, the bride is carried to the groom's home and presented with an oil lamp and key to the house. The wedding feast is made up of more than 80 dishes to mark the couple's union.

Mount Everest is still growing. Figures suggest that the Himalaya are growing by an average of 6 in/15 cm per year.

The eyes painted on stupas represent the ever-watchful and fully aware eyes of Buddha.

The traditional Nepalese greeting, namaste, involves pressing both hands together, as if in prayer, and means "I greet the god in you." The Tibetan greeting, tashi delek, is also commonly used and means "I wish you long life." A greeting and farewell custom with Buddhists is the placing of gossamer-light katas—ceremonial white scarves—around an honored guest's neck. Flower garlands and tikka (red powder on the forehead) are signs of respect from Hindus.

It is bad manners to point at or touch anything with your feet. If you do, make a quick apology by putting your hand on the person's arm and touching your own head.

The Gurkhas of Nepal (they're the ones with the wicked knives) have long been regarded as outstanding soldiers. The Gurkha Regiment of the British Army proved itself in World War II and the Falkland Islands—the unit was also stationed in Hong Kong.

It is estimated that thieves have stolen and exported half of all the artworks in Nepal, including about 5,000 statues.

The flight into Lukla (for the Everest trek) has got to be one of the most spectacular landings and takeoffs anywhere. Sit in front and watch as it appears that you're diving directly into a mountain. At the last possible moment, what appears to be a tiny scratch turns into a sharply inclined airstrip. Takeoffs are equally exhilarating, and—although accidents do happen—they are generally safe and routine.