Overview

Introduction

The twin cities of Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo (sometimes the two are referred to as Ixta-Zihua) are anything but identical. If your idea of vacation heaven is a round of golf on a lush, green course followed by a leisurely lunch of lobster bisque and champagne, Ixtapa (pronounced eeks-TAH-pa) is calling your name.

However, if you'd rather poke through an outdoor Mexican market and then amble over to the beach where fisherfolk are mending their nets, it's only 4 mi/6 km down the coast to Zihuatanejo (zee-wha-tah-NEH-ho). The lobster there might be in your tacos (washed down with plenty of cold cerveza).

Mexico's tourism-development agency dreamed up Ixtapa when trying to create a Pacific-coast Mexican resort area. Zihuatanejo, on the other hand, is a traditional Mexico fishing village that has been around for centuries. Whatever Mexican beach vacation you prefer, one of these towns should suit you.

Both towns attract more Mexicans than international visitors, especially families, who savor the tranquil settings. Ixtapa tends to have more high-rise luxury and mid-priced hotels while Zihuatanejo has more old family-style inns and bungalows with a few romantic, ultradeluxe hotels geared to honeymooners.

Driving at night on the highway between the resorts and Mexico City is not recommended for safety reasons.

Must See or Do

Sights—The view from the well-named Panoramic Sunset Bar; the classic nighttime vista at La Casa Que Canta or El Faro restaurant.

Memorable Meals—Delicious, traditional Guerrero pozole at Tamales y Atoles Any; seafood tacos al pastor at La Sirena Gorda; a cold drink and plate of freshly grilled fish at La Perla.

Late Night—Dancing and people-watching at Christine in Ixtapa; dancing the light fantastic to salsa at Bandidos.

Walks—A lovely long stroll on the beach at Troncones, about 19 mi/30 km north of Ixtapa, or along the 2-mi-/3-km-long beach in Ixtapa.

Especially for Kids—One-on-one dolphin encounters at Delfiniti; the watersports center at the Hotel Villa del Sol.

Geography

Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo are situated between Acapulco and Puerto Vallarta, on a tropical strip of Pacific coastline. Ixtapa is 4 mi/6 km northwest of Zihuatanejo.

Note: Some businesses in Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo are located on unnumbered streets and labeled as "s/n," or sin numero (without number).

History

Intent on creating a Pacific-coast resort similar to Cancun on the Caribbean coast, the Mexican tourism-development agency, Fonatur, came up with the master plan for small but stately Ixtapa. After extensive market research, they decided that a coconut plantation 130 mi/209 km northwest of Acapulco had just the right climate (balmy), beaches (creamy white sand) and scenery (where the Sierra Madre mountains meet the Pacific Ocean) to lure vacationers. And it didn't hurt that centuries-old Zihuatanejo was nearby to supply the ambience of a traditional fishing village. The Mexican government bought the coconut plantation, and Ixtapa was born in the early 1970s. Today, it's an enclave of high-rise hotels, modern restaurants and outdoor shopping arcades.

Zihuatanejo's known history, recorded in the form of ceramics and stone carvings, dates back 3,000 years to the Olmec civilization. In the 1500s, Spanish traders used Zihuatanejo as a port for commerce with the Far East. It later became a refuge for pirates.

Many of Zihuatanejo's modern conveniences—such as electricity—resulted from the creation of Ixtapa. There have been other changes, as well. Zihuatanejo's neighborhoods swelled to accommodate workers for Ixtapa, and residents created the pedestrian-only streets with decorative bricks to appeal to tourists visiting the glamorous resort down the road. But one thing is sure to remain the same: Zihuatanejo won't have the kind of high-rise buildings that line Ixtapa's beaches—the town's laws forbid their construction. Visitors will be able to enjoy easygoing "Zihua," as it's known, along with sophisticated Ixtapa for a long time to come.

Potpourri

Ixtapa is a Nahuatl word that means "place of white sand." Zihuatanejo's name comes from Purepecha, the language of the Tarascan Indians, and means "land of women."

Legend has it that a Tarascan king made Playa las Gatas, in Zihuatanejo, into a private beach and bathing area for his daughter, the princess.

In the 1994 film The Shawshank Redemption, unjustly jailed banker Andy Dufresne (played by Tim Robbins) makes a prison break after a 20-year incarceration. His just rewards: arriving safely at his dream destination, where he presumably lives out his days in the Zihuatanejo sunshine.

Thursday is pozole day in Guerrero state. Locals make a long afternoon ritual of the pork and hominy soup; each person seasons the local delicacy to her or his own taste. Many restaurants serve it daily.

The likes of Colombian artist Fernando Botero and Hollywood producer Bob Evans have been spotted in Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo.

The bark of the native Cuachalalate tree has been used for centuries to cure kidney ailments.

Playa las Gatas is not named after cats but rather the whiskered nurse sharks that used to frequent the area. (Gato is the Spanish word for cat). The sharks, seldom seen these days, are not aggressive.

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo is an important population center in the state of Guerrero, which is one of Mexico's poorest. Although tourist areas such as Ixtapa and nearby Acapulco have good infrastructure and higher standards of living, many rural areas of the state consistently rank as the poorest and least developed in Mexico.

Location

Ships arriving in Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo drop anchor in Zihuatanejo Bay, a pretty, sheltered harbor less than 3 mi/5 km wide. Passengers are tendered a short distance to Zihuatanejo's municipal pier, where there's an air-conditioned building with restrooms for their use.

Around the pier, you will find tour stands, a tourist information stand with maps, taxis and a waiting ambulance. From there, you can walk right onto the malecon, the brick-paved walkway fronting both downtown, which is lined with charming shops and restaurants, and the waterfront. There are many Internet cafes in the area as well.

The main tourist office, which provides maps and local listings, is open Monday-Friday 8 am-4 pm. It's on the second floor of the municipal building. Ave. Paseo de Zihuatanejo 21, Col. La Deportiva. Phone 554-2001.

Shore Excursions

Consider signing up for the excursions offered by your ship. They may not be the least expensive way to see the area, but you won't have to waste time making arrangements yourself—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship.

Shore excursions—and their prices—vary from cruise line to cruise line. Some may include lunch and drinks, and others may not. (Fees for children range from half-price to full price.) Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information.

A growing number of tour and service operators set prices in dollars rather than the local currency. Peso-paying customers should expect to pay the current exchange rate rather than fixed peso prices for some services.

Zihua and Ixtapa Tour—This tour takes you through charming Zihuatanejo on the way to Ixtapa's hotel zone. Includes a stop for shopping. 3 hours.

Sailing and Snorkeling—A cruise around Zihuatanejo Bay aboard the sailboat Veltalva, with swimming and snorkeling at a beach. Lunch and drinks are included. 3 hours.

Isla Ixtapa—Take a boat out to Isla Ixtapa, where you can enjoy sunning and swimming on the beach. Lunch and drinks included. 4 hours.

Wet and Dry—Combine a snorkel excursion with biking and/or kayaking. 6 hours.

Dolphin Touch—Allows children to swim with and touch dolphins. Times vary.

Overview

Introduction

The once-sleepy town of Zihuatanejo, 149 mi/240 km northwest of Acapulco, has been steadily increasing in popularity each year, and the formerly empty hillsides are now dotted with hotels and homes. The growth went into overdrive once cruise ships started arriving; the city is transformed when a ship is anchored in the harbor. Plans to build a pier and huge terminal have continually been knocked down as residents and business owners worry about the already polluted bay suffering even more. Passengers are tendered to the small dock, where they can walk to shops, bars and restaurants.

Despite the influx these ships bring, Zihuatanejo retains a strong Mexican character, and most of the year it is more popular with domestic tourists than foreign ones. (Most of the foreigners head for the purpose-built resort area of Ixtapa instead.) The shores are still alive with fisherman and though there are some 250 trinket and handicrafts shops, the quality is generally higher than what you find in most port cities.

Three beaches are lined with small hotels, the best being Playa La Ropa. Two of Mexico's best luxury resorts are located there, but it's also a great stretch of sand for strolling, watersports and happy hours. It's easy to arrange trips to nearby snorkeling spots, and one—Las Gatas—can be reached via a public ferry from Zihuatanejo's center.

Apart from Playa la Ropa, Zihuatanejo is easily navigated by foot and there are dozens of restaurants within a few blocks of the harbor. Most hotels in the area have less than 100 rooms. Some are quite reasonably priced for a beach resort area, especially considering the panoramic view from their balconies.